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Thread: Running edges through a planer..

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Wooden View Post
    I almost always size material on edge in the planer as long as I'm doing multiple pieces; I put them together as wide as I can grip them in my hand, feed them into the planer jointed side down and keep them together with my hand so they're going through as a single piece, switch to the out feed when they're almost all the way through.
    I usually don't do it with single pieces.
    I usually do the same thing but I let go before the peices make it all the way through the planer.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Schuch View Post
    I usually do the same thing but I let go before the peices make it all the way through the planer.
    I see what you did there.

    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    If the jointer does not give me the edge I want, I hit with a hand plane. Hand planing will leave very smooth edges.
    Try that one when you've got a few thousand feet of face frame and door stock sitting in front of you

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    I see what you did there.



    Try that one when you've got a few thousand feet of face frame and door stock sitting in front of you
    Exactly............

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    This is how we do it.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RA-BosQ06Ew

    Before this we always used the jointer and planer. Still do occasionally. I've had a lot of planers over the years and some keep stock on edge square better than others.
    Am I looking at the wrong clip? These guys are jointing, planing and shaping. Note the stock is already sawn to rough size.

    On reviewing the recent posts, there are a few variations on saw/joint/plane but the principles remain that it's best to work in that order. 4/6 sides, shapers etc are just variations on the use of a planer. Cheers

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post

    I dimension stock on a shaper and an outboard fence. I would call that a lateral move from using a planer. Better quality cut basically impossible to be out of square, and a very small amount of straightening ability. The process isn't as fast, but secondary and tertiary operations go more smoothly calling it a wash in my book. It's basically a little more idiot proof is all.
    That's how I do it. No snipe and perfectly consistent widths when it counts like on integral beaded face frames. The occasional planer snipe doesn't work well in precut identical notches.
    Last edited by Jared Sankovich; 07-10-2017 at 10:56 PM.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    Am I looking at the wrong clip? These guys are jointing, planing and shaping. Note the stock is already sawn to rough size.

    On reviewing the recent posts, there are a few variations on saw/joint/plane but the principles remain that it's best to work in that order. 4/6 sides, shapers etc are just variations on the use of a planer. Cheers
    The first part of the clip is jointer, planer, shaper. If you watch further it gets to the four sider.

    Shaper vs planer depends on what kind of planer is available. Our current planer is a finish machine with rubber rollers, Tersa head and no bed rolls so finish is as good as shaper with outboard fence and insert cutter. In the past we had a SCM with conventional head and bed rollers. The finish was not so good off that and we used the shaper or sometimes through the wide belt on edge. Wide belt is tricky, depending on your contact roller it can round the edges making joinery difficult and wont take much height without tipping.
    i am processing parts for 20 windows today and the four sider is down waiting for a new flat belt. Doing it on the jointer and planer and getting a lot of exercise... A four side machine would not be practical in a hobby shop but sure saves a lot of work in a pro shop if you process much solid. Doing S4S on a well tuned jointer and planer is enjoyable for small batches.

  7. #37
    Joe, I've got a four wing opposite shear insert straight cutter that I use on the shaper for sizing stock. I've never seen a knife deliver the quality of cut that it does. When the time comes for me to get a s4s machine I will be looking for more of those heads. I don't know how wide/tall you can go with it though. I bet I ran 20k feet across that cutter before I had to change inserts. I also don't know how much material removal it can handle. There's very little gullet, and the knives don't protrude much past the body. I haven't removed much more than 1/8" with it, my setup doesn't allow it.

  8. #38
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    IMG_2938.jpg

    Martin, here are my best straight cutters for the shaper. The z 4 insert cutter with rake in front makes a nice cut but the cut from the Tersa head in the planer is better. The big Tersa at the back cuts better than the other shaper heads probably because of the large diameter. We use the outside fence on shaper plenty for profiling but planer is second choice after the four sider for S4S just because it's easy and multiple pieces can be put through at the same time.
    If your lacking a good finish planer the shaper is a good option though.
    Last edited by Joe Calhoon; 07-12-2017 at 6:12 AM.

  9. #39
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    I picked up a Tersa head for the shaper on Joes recommendation and am very happy with the results. But, if I am just making squares I do it on the planer, also a Tersa head. I have a 4"x4"x6" square of wood that I clamp to the infeed table as a guide when feeding in on edge. I have found that if they start square they will stay square, and the block makes that happen. Had a roller one on my old planer, but the simple block works just as well. With the block I can do very tall pieces with no rolling. No S4S machine.

  10. #40
    When I send edges through the planer I oversize by 40 thou. I do two passes. The first pass is the which way is the grain going pass. and the second pass is the final cleanup pass. If I get tear out on an edge on the first pass I'll reverse the feed of the board so I get a clean edge. On wild grained boards sometimes you just can't win and have to make another board.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    If your feed roller serrations show, you aren't taking enough of a cut.
    I find, however, with softer woods and, if the edge of the board happens upon the edge of (some, certain ?) feed roller sections, the serrations impress more deeply into the board than the depth of my final pass. This is a problem which I have noted here before and I've still not found a solution.

  12. #42
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    I read all the posts and didn't see anything about flattening one face first before moving to the next step of either planing to thickness or jointing one edge. Just wondering. Over many years of reading, listening, and doing I always understood that flattening one face first was the place to start (possibly after cutting boards to rough lenghts). When I had only a 6" jointer, that was more difficult, but now that I have an 8", I can almost always fit boards on my jointer to flatten the first side before anything else. Without flattening the first face, it's many times impossible to get a completely flat board. Am I wrong about this first step? Maybe I just missed this in the posts. Also, seems to me that this thread indicates that people have their own sequence and do what works for them. I personally have never done much gang planing to width, but it seems like it's a good idea where you have multiple boards where you need the same width. My planer gives me a great surface for glue up but if you're gang planing for width, it would not usually be for glue-up anyway.

  13. #43
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    Randy, maybe I'm overly expedient but, I say, it depends on how you will use the board you are planing. If the board must remain straight on it's own, then flattening one side first on the jointer is the best way to do it. ..However, if you plan to hold the board straight with some kind of joinery then, unless there is a tight crook or, otherwise, can't be held straight, then going to the jointer first is unnecessary.

  14. #44
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    Interesting. I have some great sources for hardwood in my area, but I rarely find a board that is flat enough to avoid doing at least a pass or two to flatten the face first. Maybe I'm just picky or am just so pleased that, with an 8" jointer, I can flatten most boards I buy. To be honest, I don't think I've ever read an article or book or seen a video online or taken a class where the first step to squaring a board wasn't flattening it unless the board is too wide. (Not that I haven't cheated occasionally when the board is almost flat with no significant twists or cupped.)

  15. #45
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    Sep 2009
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    Bushnell. Florida
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    I never edge plane because it takes too much time and effort. I saw the edge with a Festool track saw, then cut to width with a table saw. I joint one side of the board and plane the other side to get the correct thickness. Cutting down on the edge jointing is a life saver.

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