Arm-R-Seal and Polycarbonate

[Brian Leavitt]

I'm using GF Arm-R-Seal to finish a project I'm working on. Mostly wood, but a portion of it is a graphic with a polycarbonate laminate on top. Does anyone know if the Arm-R-Seal will adhere to this? Or would it be better to finish the wood with the Arm-R-Seal and apply the graphic on top of that? I can't find information on the GF web site about this. I'd prefer to apply the graphic first and have a uniform finish over the entire piece, but it's not essential.

Thanks,
B

[Andy Giddings]

Try asking GF a question on their Facebook page as they'll respond within a business day normally. I'd be tempted to apply the graphic after finishing as it sounds as if the graphic is very thin. Another option - is it possible to mask the graphic after its been applied then Arm R Seal or is the graphic complex?

[Brian Leavitt]

The graphic is thin. It's printed on vinyl and laminated with the thin polycarbonate. I can mask it, though. Essentially, what I have to do it apply the graphic, laser through it and into the wood, cut the wood to shape, and round the edges with the router. After that sand the edges and and finally apply the Arm-R-Seal. I will mask the whole top before putting it in the laser so I can leave it on during finishing. I wasn't sure if I could get a clean edge with the Arm-R-Seal and masking or not as I have never used it before. The whole piece is going to be the shape of the attachment below. I will find them on Facebook and ask a question.

Thank you, Andy.

[mark mcfarlane]

.... I wasn't sure if I could get a clean edge with the Arm-R-Seal and masking or not as I have never used it before. ...

Thank you, Andy.

You can test the 'tape edge' with arm-r-seal on a scrap of the same wood, sanded to the same grit as your final project.

If the edge isn't crisp enough, perhaps a regimen of taping, spraying with rattle can Zinseer shellac, then the arm-r-seal will give a crisper line to the arm-r-seal.

Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

[Brian Leavitt]

I just went ahead and jumped into it. masking wasn't an issue and there is no noticeable seam.

Overall I think it finished just OK. I know this is not the fault of the product, but rather the user. I had some difficulty getting an even coat, to be honest. I used blue shop towels to wipe it on. If you look at the larger side panels at certain angles, it's still not totally even. It's good enough for my personal cabinet, and most people wouldn't even notice the variation, but now I'm building a second one of these for a co-worker and I need to figure out how to get a more consistent finish with this stuff.

[Andy Giddings]

I just went ahead and jumped into it. masking wasn't an issue and there is no noticeable seam.

Overall I think it finished just OK. I know this is not the fault of the product, but rather the user. I had some difficulty getting an even coat, to be honest. I used blue shop towels to wipe it on. If you look at the larger side panels at certain angles, it's still not totally even. It's good enough for my personal cabinet, and most people wouldn't even notice the variation, but now I'm building a second one of these for a co-worker and I need to figure out how to get a more consistent finish with this stuff.

Brian, if you do a search through this forum you'll see a few posts on wiping technique with Arm R Seal that may help. Blue shop towels are good for the job, but there's a knack in keeping a wet edge, circular vs straight pattern, how much to apply at a time etc. I found working quickly in a circular pattern and never going over the area I've just done worked well for me, but some prefer different methods. The advantage of Blue shop towels is they don't shed or hold too much liquid

[Brian Leavitt]

Brian, if you do a search through this forum you'll see a few posts on wiping technique with Arm R Seal that may help. Blue shop towels are good for the job, but there's a knack in keeping a wet edge, circular vs straight pattern, how much to apply at a time etc. I found working quickly in a circular pattern and never going over the area I've just done worked well for me, but some prefer different methods. The advantage of Blue shop towels is they don't shed or hold too much liquid

Thanks, Andy. I looked through several of the posts on here and searched Google as well, before starting the first one. Found several different methods people were using. I'll have to reread through them before starting on the next one. I know I have to get over feeling I have to touch up spots. Did that a few times, knowing full well it was not a good idea.

[mark mcfarlane]

How many coats did you wipe on? 3? 5? Did you do thick or thin coats? How long between coats? Did you scuff sand between coats?

[Brian Leavitt]

How many coats did you wipe on? 3? 5? Did you do thick or thin coats? How long between coats? Did you scuff sand between coats?

I think I did a total of seven coats, Mark. I applied one coat every 24 hours and scuffed with 400 grit between most of them.

[mark mcfarlane]

Well, it seems like that regimen should have worked well. Its hard to miss spots with 7 coats.

FWIW, I find satin or matte finishes more forgiving . I've been using Arm-R-Seal gloss a lot lately (working on my second gallon this summer). I've been cheating and flooding it on with a foam brush over unstained birch plywood, getting a pretty thick film in 2 coats, which has been good enough for shop cabinets. I do like the amber tint it gives to birch plywood.