6" hose to 6" PVC adapter?

[Dave Cav]

I have just plumbed the majority of my shop with 6" 2729 PVC sewer pipe. I also used some SDR 35 which has the same OD when I ran out of 2729. I just received 25 feet of 6" clear vinyl .025 hose from Wynn. The OD of the hose is a LOT smaller than the OD of the pipe, so I need some kind of adapter.

When I was using 4" hose on my previous shop I would get the common black plastic fittings, saw the reduced end off (the part that slipped into the hose) and then would glue cut-off slip fitting onto the end of my PVC pipe. It doesn't look like any of these black fittings are available for 6" hose; I checked Oneida, Clearview and Wynn and none of them have assorted 6" fittings. So, how do the rest of you connect your 6" flex to your 6" sewer pipe?

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Try rolling a piece of sheet metal to fit the inside of the duct and see if that hose will slip over it. If so, make yourself some adapters with the sheet metal and screw to the duct.

[Dave Cav]

Try rolling a piece of sheet metal to fit the inside of the duct and see if that hose will slip over it. If so, make yourself some adapters with the sheet metal and screw to the duct.

Thanks, Jim, I'll see if I can find some light sheet stock to see if it'll work. I also found I could stuff the hose into the female pipe fittings (coupling, Y connector, etc) so along with some sealant that might work as well, but seems rather inelegant.

[John Spitters]

If you warm up the end of your spiral hose it will give you that little bit of extra streatch to allow you to fit it over the pvc pipe. I used a heat gun on its low setting, just be carefull you don't over heat the hose.

[Dave Cav]

If you warm up the end of your spiral hose it will give you that little bit of extra streatch to allow you to fit it over the pvc pipe. I used a heat gun on its low setting, just be carefull you don't over heat the hose.

I'll give it a try but I think it would have to stretch quite a bit to make it over the fitting.

[Randy Henry]

If you have a small circle cutter for your router (easy to make), make a plug the same diameter of your flex hose. I make two of them out of 3/4" oak, then brad them together. Heat up your 6" pipe and tap the plug in. After it cools, take the plug out and your hose will fit right in. I leave an exposed screw head in the plug as it gives me something to grab onto when I pull the plug out.

[John K Jordan]

I have just plumbed the majority of my shop with 6" 2729 PVC sewer pipe. I also used some SDR 35 which has the same OD when I ran out of 2729. I just received 25 feet of 6" clear vinyl .025 hose from Wynn. The OD of the hose is a LOT smaller than the OD of the pipe, so I need some kind of adapter.

When I was using 4" hose on my previous shop I would get the common black plastic fittings, saw the reduced end off (the part that slipped into the hose) and then would glue cut-off slip fitting onto the end of my PVC pipe...

Dave,

I've done this several ways, clipping and removing a section of the supporting wire in flex then heating and stretching, heating and deforming PVC, and inserting a smaller diameter piece into the end of the pipe, similar to your method of using the a reduced diameter piece.

It was easy to make a reduced diameter piece of pipe for an adapter without heating. What I did was cut a short length of pipe, perhaps 2-3 inches long, then stand it on end on the bandsaw and cut out a narrow gap, enough to result in the exact diameter I needed when squeezed. I glued this into the other pipe to make the adapter. I did some by trial-and-error, just cutting the gap a little wider until it fit. I did some by measuring the existing and needed diameter and calculating the gap width using C=Pi*D. This gives the perfect diameter (after filing away any irregularities from the bandsaw!)

I also made several adapter rings like this to connect various fittings and blast gates to pipe and hose. If you need more strength for clamping a hose you can make another smaller one to glue inside for reinforcement. This will reduce the ID a little but not much since the S&D pipe is pretty thin.

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Jim, I'll see if I can find some light sheet stock to see if it'll work. I also found I could stuff the hose into the female pipe fittings (coupling, Y connector, etc) so along with some sealant that might work as well, but seems rather inelegant.

You can get appropriate sheet metal in the HVAC section and/or building products section of any home center. You want the steel, not aluminum and preferably not the super thin stuff. The advantage to this method is you can actually use a hose clamp to fasten the drop hose to the connection.

[terry mccammon]

I use a hairdryer for this as it does not seem to get as hot as a heat gun. Warmed the hose quite a bit until it was clearly much more pliable and by main strength and stupidity got it over the pipe. I then use small self tapping screws to hold the wire on the pipe as under stress the hose likes to slip off. I have made a point of using a short length of pipe so that I now have an adapter built into the hose, if I am making sense.

[Bill Dufour]

I make taper adapters using short pieces of pvc pipe. Figure the cirumference needed at small the end. saw wedge out from end to end tapering from a single cut to the needed reduction in circumference at the other. heat it up and use hose clamps to form it into the funnel shape. wear leather gloves, use damp rags to freeze it into shape. You can even glue it closed when it is cold.
\Bill

[Jim Morgan]

I have 6" hose from LV that fits tightly inside 6" SDR couplings. YMMV.

[Curt Harms]

Thanks, Jim, I'll see if I can find some light sheet stock to see if it'll work. I also found I could stuff the hose into the female pipe fittings (coupling, Y connector, etc) so along with some sealant that might work as well, but seems rather inelegant.

That's what I wound up doing with a 6" X 4" PVC reducer - putting the hose inside the reducer and sealing it with silicone. It doesn't work out too badly from a turbulence standpoint I think because the 6" hose is close to the 4" inlet but it's still not an elegant solution. Jim's idea of a metal adapter using thin sheet metal like roof flashing might be worth exploring.

[Alan Schwabacher]

It may not be worth the bother for only one connection, but it's easy to resize the end of 2729 pipe to make it either larger or smaller. To make it a bit larger, make a plywood mandrel by screwing two thicknesses of 3/4" plywood disks to a flat base. Size the disks just slightly larger than you want the pipe ID, and round over the top edge so the pipe just fits over before expansion. Now warm the end of the pipe, push it over the mandrel. When cool it will keep the shape but shrink a bit -- thus the "slightly larger" above. Obviously, if you want to shrink the end of the pipe, you'd use a hole rather than a disk.

I heat the end of the pipe with a radiant heater designed for paint removal, as it's easy to heat evenly and I have it. A heat gun will work, but takes more care to heat evenly.

This is handy for joining odd lengths of pipe without fittings, making slight bends where fittings don't exist, and joining pipes, gates, and fittings not designed for one another.

For only one flex to PVC joint, this might be fastest. To expand flex hose, rather than heating, wetting with alcohol will plasticize and soften the plastic. Then rather than think of it as stretching, think of it as twisting to uncoil the wire. That will stretch the hose and lubricate so it can easily fit over fittings difficult or impossible otherwise. When dried, it's on there. (It is possible that some hoses are made of a plastic that will not soften with alcohol. Heat or other solvents might work.)

[Dan Henry]

Another way to fit the pipe to the hose is to put a short section of the pipe in hot water and put a couple of hose clamps around the pipe and shrink the od of the pipe, take it out of the water and let it cool , pipe should fit the hose

[Dave Cav]

Thanks again for all the ideas. I tried the idea of shrinking the end of the heated S&D pipe in a plywood mandrel or die, but by the time I got it small enough to fit in the hose it had a big wrinkle in it. I ended up using the suggestion to cut a section out of the side of the pipe and shrink it down. I'm using a mixture of 6" 2729 S&D pipe and SDR 35, the latter which has an ID about 1/8" smaller (thicker sidewalls) than the 2729 pipe, because my supplier ran out of 2729 pipe. After a bit of measuring and trial and error, I found if I cut about 1 1/16" out of the sidewall of the SDR 35 pipe and shrunk it down with a hose clamp or two, it would fit inside both the ID of the SDR-35 pipe and my 6" hose, making, in effect a reducing nozzle from the pipe to the hose. I found I could glue the cut edges of the pipe together with gray PVC cement (what I had on hand) and once it set up I could take the hose clamp off. Then it was just a matter of assembling the hose, pipe and my home made 6" blast gates made from 1/2" MDF and 5mm plywood. I got the widebelt, PM 180 and Invicta 12" jointer hooked up today; tomorrow I'll keep going. Once I get all the D/C piping hooked up and the shop swept out I'll post some pictures of the completed shop.

By the way, the 6" hose clamps from Wynn (and others) with the jog fitting on the back to go over the wire in the hose work really well.