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Thread: Sharpening - Kicking It Up A Notch?

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Zellers View Post
    IMO, every 9 months or so someone should start a sharpening thread here if for no other reason than to coax out the insanely useful information from users like DC above. Different masters at different times will be motivated to consolidate their years (decades?) of knowledge into a few concise sentences for all to absorb, as above.

    New sharpening threads are awesome. No one is ever 'required' to participate, but when they do, there are always a few hidden gems to be found even for those with completely bald forearms.
    I agree with Dave. That was a great summary Derek! I cut and pasted that one into it's own file for ready access. Thank you Sir!
    Fred
    Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 07-16-2017 at 7:24 AM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Different sharpening media feels different. I mostly use my Shaptons because I don't want to soak my stones for day to day use and with the Shaptons I do not need to do so. I do use the Shapton 16K stone and I like it. I am not certain that I really need it, but it takes so little time, why not. I bought it new on the classified section here (someone was selling one and I saved a few dollars on the stone). I have not tried the 13K ceramic stone, but, I hear that they cut well on hard steel.

    So, my decision was really made based on what I found at a discount (the 16K stone) and what required minimum soaking leaving a nice edge (shapton).

    I did purchase a spyderco, but I have simply not had the time to try it, but, George Wilson spoke very well of them, which is why I bought one to try; Supposed to be difficult to flatten (if that is required) and then it stays flat very well.

    I must admit, however, that I also had very good results using sandpaper (scary sharp method).

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
    Posts
    1,502
    I came to my current system without ever reading a sharpening thread! Just trial, error and frustration. I have a double sided diamond plate for initial sharpening which saves lots of time and doubles to flatten my water stones. I use Norton water stones because they are thick and affordable. I use 1000X and 8000X then green compound on leather for the top of the blade with a mere wipe on the back.
    I have a 4000X stone from Japan but omitting it works just as well.

    As Derek says, if you don't produce a 'wire' you are not really sharpening at all. The pitting on the back of the plane blade very near the edge is a swine. For the finest edge you have to grind your blade away to remove it, worth it for a smoother but less so in a Jack.

    My 'pond' is a $5 plastic box with a lid, my holder is a sizeable rubbery mat with ridges on a bench, nothing slips and it holds lots of water. I have a 'holder' that cost money, a complete waste of time.

    Buying spare blades for your favourite planes, keeping one for rough work and one for fine gives you two sharpening options and saves time and steel. It costs you no more in the long run either.

    Mostly I sharpen freehand but once in a while I restore the proper angle with a guide. I prefer 01 steel for fine work.

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