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Thread: Purchase of a used Oneida 1 1/2hp Dust collector/ cyclone installation questions

  1. #1

    Purchase of a used Oneida 1 1/2hp Dust collector/ cyclone installation questions

    Hello All, I bought a used Oneida Dust Collector. It has a filter inside the under the motor and above the cyclone. It was wired to 220v but I was able to change it to 110 per the motor instructions.

    I wanted to test it because I bought it from a storage unit and there was no 220outlets so the curiosity was getting the best of me to see if it worked. The unit is supposed to be suspended on the wall but I decided to setup laying on its side on the floor just for testing purposes.

    I spliced the end of the motor wire to a 12awg 30 extension cable then plugged it into one of my 20amp receptacles with the breaker off. I then used the circuit breaker to as a power switch to power the receptacle and the dust collector. It seemed to work well and nothing tripped.

    Questions

    This is a old unit and wondering if it worth keeping or should I just upgrade to something else? Like many folks I am on a budget.

    Should run is on 110 and is 12 gauge wire safe based on the motor specs (photos attached)?

    The extension cable I am using states 12awg 30amp. Is this even safe in the short term?

    Is this internal filter setup any good or should I go with a different setup up with an external Wynn filter an a super dust deputy style unit?

    And what is/was this old unit even worth since they don't make this model anymore? I just see $1500 units on Oneida's website

    Is this one of those "they don't make them like they used to" or are they not good units?

    The inlet is 6 inches so would I use 4 inch runs off a 6inch trunk?

    IMG_1515 3.jpgIMG_1519 3.jpgIMG_1518.jpgIMG_1514.jpgIMG_1498.jpgIMG_1522.jpgIMG_1483.jpgIMG_1484.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,889
    I doubt if the filter has enough area to match the cfm of the blower. Looks like a hassle to clean the filter. I would remove the filter and mount it outside like other similar units. Not sure if removing the tube inside would help or hurt airflow and pressure. I suppose it might act like a neutral vane and increse suction pressure.
    Extension cord #12 is good for 20 amps, #10 is 30 amps.
    Bil lD.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
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    1,647
    I think that it falls into the "decent" category. There are some people who will tell you that you need a 3 HP or a 5 HP, etc. But you'll get a lot of utility out of it.

    On 120 vac, it appears that it'll draw around 17 amps. A 12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amps. So 12 gauge should work fine. Your 12 gauge extension cord should work okay, but the mfr may have inflated the ratings. When you are running it, check the temp of the cord. Warm is okay but hot is not. Pretty simple, isn't it?

    With the cyclone and barrel, you'll catch all of the big stuff and perhaps 95% of the fines. I don't know about the built in filter unit. Perhaps it is okay. I didn't see the rating for the filter. If it doesn't filter down to 1 micron then perhaps you may want to add on a fine particle filter like a Wynn filter. If you live in warmer climates you could build something to divert all of the super fine particles outside. A side benefit of doing that is it will be quieter.

    I use a 2 HP Harbor Fright DC (running on 120 vac) with a separator and vent it outside. But I live in San Diego.

  4. #4
    I think you did well and it should serve you well.
    Some internet experts may disagree.
    I was in the Commercial HVAC industry for over forty years so I know a thing or two about HVAC.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
    Posts
    335
    Oneida makes really good products. Having said that I would not own a dust collector with an internal filter due to the difficulty of cleaning the unit/filter. If you do keep and use it you may want to consider an alarm/shut off to keep it from overfilling and plugging it up.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,248
    Hi, I bought one in 2002, still in use in my shop, it works great. It's a very well built unit with a good impeller design and a reliable North American made motor.

    There's no difference in performance between 120 volts and 240 volts with properly sized feeders.

    After a few years I bought the external HEPA filter conversion kit from Oneida.

    If you PM your email address I will email you a copy of the manual for your unit................Regards, Rod.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    1) don't run that unit without duct work attached
    2) Running the unit on 120v is going to be possible...just because you "can" doesn't mean you "should", however...
    3) Extension cords are not a good idea for this application
    4) I suggest you replace the internal filter with an external one...my original Oneida cyclone was identical and that kicked performance up a bit.
    5) Keep your duct work to 6" as much as possible, but know that this unit doesn't have the CFM to clear larger machines, such as wider jointer/planers, etc.

    It's a good unit, but marginal in performance due to the small impeller and low horsepower. I sold mine to a friend when I upgraded to a larger unit and it's still going strong in his shop...my original purchase was in 2000.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Jackson, GA
    Posts
    23
    I have that same unit. The internal filter is a PITA to clean. I got the external filter retro kit from Oneida, and it improved the performance, as well as made cleaning the filter a breeze. I run it on 220v, so I can't comment on the 110/220 conversion.

  9. #9
    Jim

    can you tell me why I would not want to run it on 120v or run ducts less than 6in? As for the extension cord, the connection was a temporary splice just to see it run. What would be a more permanent solution?



    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    1) don't run that unit without duct work attached
    2) Running the unit on 120v is going to be possible...just because you "can" doesn't mean you "should", however...
    3) Extension cords are not a good idea for this application
    4) I suggest you replace the internal filter with an external one...my original Oneida cyclone was identical and that kicked performance up a bit.
    5) Keep your duct work to 6" as much as possible, but know that this unit doesn't have the CFM to clear larger machines, such as wider jointer/planers, etc.

    It's a good unit, but marginal in performance due to the small impeller and low horsepower. I sold mine to a friend when I upgraded to a larger unit and it's still going strong in his shop...my original purchase was in 2000.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    The 1.5 motor will run fine on both voltages...I guess I just have a preference of using 240v when it's possible for these motors.

    The duct work question, however, isn't a matter of opinion. Dust collection is about air flow 100%, not "suction". The more air you move, the more dust and chips you can move. You can fit nearly 4 times the amount of air at the same velocity in a 6" duct than you can in a 4" duct, so running 6" as far as possible is a best case situation, especially when the cyclone isn't, um...over powered. Yes, many tools only have a 4" port, but by reducing just shy of the port you can benefit a little from the "venturie effect" if you can't change to a larger port. The idea is for you to maximize the performance of what you have. 4" duct pretty much limits you to about 450-500 CFM (cubic feet per minute) max under ideal conditions, whereas 6" duct will typically be capable of 800-1000 (or more) CFM, depending on the duct design and the capability of the blower on the DC. Even if you can't quite move that much air with the 1.5hp cyclone, it will still be better with 6" duct than 4" duct.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    Thank you so much Jim. I freakin love this site. So many members willing to share their knowledge

  12. A question, as I think about getting a similar unit. What did the external hepa filter kit cost?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
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    3,078
    When comparing a 6" and 4" duct, the 6" duct has a little more than 2 times the cross sectional area. Therefore, at the same velocity the cfm will be a little more than twice as much and not 4 times.

    I understand the Venturi effect but fail to understand how it effects or benefits one when putting a reducer in the duct work. Perhaps, someone can educate me about how it benefits dust collecting or provide some data.

  14. #14

    Still vented?

    If you switch to an external filter, can it still be vented outside? Or is it no longer required? I just moved and am building out my new shop. I was planning to vent my interior filter Oneida outside but if converting to an external filter doesn't require it I can save the hassle of drilling through my concrete wall.

    Also, is it really necessary to buy a $400 kit from Oneida to convert it? What is actually included in the conversion kit?

    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Hosler View Post
    I have that same unit. The internal filter is a PITA to clean. I got the external filter retro kit from Oneida, and it improved the performance, as well as made cleaning the filter a breeze. I run it on 220v, so I can't comment on the 110/220 conversion.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Allen View Post
    If you switch to an external filter, can it still be vented outside? Or is it no longer required? I just moved and am building out my new shop. I was planning to vent my interior filter Oneida outside but if converting to an external filter doesn't require it I can save the hassle of drilling through my concrete wall.

    Also, is it really necessary to buy a $400 kit from Oneida to convert it? What is actually included in the conversion kit?
    Bill, if you are venting outside, you would not normally be filtering at that point...but you have to consider whether or not venting outside is a good thing for the geography where you live because that also vents your heat and/or AC outside, too.

    The conversion kit is an external filter with the fittings, etc., required to affix it to the cyclone. You can certainly do the retrofit yourself using components obtained elsewhere. The original, small internal filter is merely removed and discarded. Many folks have retrofitted these early generation systems...I had one prior to my larger Oneida system, did the retrofit (myself) and that system is still running in a friend's shop almost 20 years after I originally purchased it.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 12-24-2018 at 11:02 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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