Running Edge Profile on Round Table Top

[George Bokros]

Would you do it freehand using just a bearing bit or on the router table with a starting pin and an edge guided bit? Which would be more goof proof?

I have done a test piece in the router table with the starting pin and bearing guided bit but wonder how others would attack this process.

Thanks

[Mike Henderson]

I use the Microfence circle jig. I decide where the center will be on the table and mark it with long perpendicular lines. Then I take a piece of fairly thin wood (about 3/8") and mark the center with perpendicular lines and drill a hole the size of the pivot point. I then glue that piece of wood in the center of the table with cardboard between it and the table. Use the perpendicular lines to align things.

Then, put the jig pivot in the hole and do a cut with a straight bit to make sure the table is round. Then put your profile bit in the router and route the profile.

Mike

[Jim Morgan]

Depends on the size of the table.

[glenn bradley]

As stated, depends on the size as to my approach. Circles and ovals mean routing uphill at a couple of locations at least. Hand held or at the table I like some sort of an edge guide or fence to keep the cut from getting away from me while I climb cut those areas. I prefer the table but, if a top is 36" in diameter and 1-1/2" thick oak . . . I start to question my ability to reliably feed the stock. Whenever I am questioning anything I am about to do in the shop I back off and consider a friendlier way ;-)

[jack duren]

Router and bearing unless it's a profile I need to manipulate and the bearing isn't an option...
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[George Bokros]

It is only an 18" round top.

[George Bokros]

I would use a bearing bit and a starting pin. I need to watch router speed and feed speed since it is cherry.

[Yonak Hawkins]

18", I'd do it on the router table with a bearing bit. Take it in two steps. Take it slowly but not so slowly it burns and don't stall. If you have to stall or if it's an easily burning wood like cherry, do it in bites.

[Jim Morgan]

18", I'd do it on the router table with a bearing bit. Take it in two steps. Take it slowly but not so slowly it burns and don't stall. If you have to stall or if it's an easily burning wood like cherry, do it in bites.

At 18", that's the way to go. You can swap the bearing on the bit for a slightly larger bearing (from another bit or a router bearing set). Switch back to the original bearing for a final last pass. Keep your material moving - cherry scorches really easily.

[Rod Sheridan]

I would do it on the shaper, with a circle cutting jig.

So in your case, router table with index pin so you don't need a bearing and the top is perfectly round...............Rod.

[George Bokros]

I would do it on the shaper, with a circle cutting jig.

So in your case, router table with index pin so you don't need a bearing and the top is perfectly round...............Rod.

Why would you not need a bearing bit with an index pin? I cannot see how you could do it without a bearing on the bit.

[Robert Engel]

Why so complicated? Am I missing something?

I would use a hand held router probably with an oversize base.

This is a pretty straight forward process other than dealing with end grain tear out in which case do a climb cut.

[Prashun Patel]

I would do it with a fixed base hand held router. The reason is that you will have to climb cut away from the long grain/short grain transition at 2 points. If you do not, you will risk tearout with all but the spendiest of bits.

For me, it is harder to climb cut on a router table than hand held. Also, a handheld router will keep the profile more consistent if your top is less than 100% flat.

[Cary Falk]

I would use a hand held router with a bearing bit also. The Freud quadra- cut bits work great on end grain.

[glenn bradley]

Now that we know it is only an 18" disc, either method would work and it becomes a personal preference. I have a reasonable collection of bearings. For cherry or other burn-prone woods I would put one on that gets me to within 1/32" or thereabouts, do my climb and regular cutting, swap bearings and take the last 1/32" off in a smooth continuous run. Always more than one way to skin the cat. Did this 20" one with a quickly made circle jig.

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