Parts Drying rack

[Mike Hoyt]

Hi everyone, I was hoping for a little help with what you guys are using for a drying rack with bigger pieces than cabinet doors. I am in need of rack to hold coffee table tops. The tops are 28"x40" and I need to be able to do 10-15 tops at a time. I built a rack with framing lumber and 1/2 emt for the arms for cabinet doors which works well for small parts. It is obviously not heavy duty enough for any more than a few at time. Looking for suggestions for a new design which I will have made out of steel.

Thanks,
Mike

[Wayne Lomman]

4x2 hardwood uprights fixed to the wall at 24" centres. Drill 1/2" holes full depth and fit 20" long 1/2" steel rod for supports at about every 12" in height. Put up as many as you can fit in your space. When you don't need them, pull the rods out and nothing is left in your way. I have fitted up a few booths like this. There is another thread somewhere here where I have posted photos of this type of racking - not on my phone, sorry. Cheers

[Carroll Courtney]

I took couple of 8' 2x4's to where they would stand up together connecting the two at the bottom and at the top.Standing in front of the rack I had the edge of the board facing me or the 2" edge.Bought every 4" I would drill a hole for a piece of 1/2 electrical pipe(EMT to the trade) to fit through that hole.So basically I had 24" of pipe sticking out of the 2x4 on both sides of the board.So you can have two sides per level and had mine mounted on casters.Only problem is you have to keep the weight balance so that one side is not alot heavier than the other side.----Carroll

[Jim Becker]

The method that both Wayne and Carroll mention is a really nice way to handle this need and it can also be used for additional/temporary material storage when necessary. It's also flexible for things like workpiece thickness if you drill the holes in a regular pattern.

[Evan Stewart]

I took couple of 8' 2x4's to where they would stand up together connecting the two at the bottom and at the top.Standing in front of the rack I had the edge of the board facing me or the 2" edge.Bought every 4" I would drill a hole for a piece of 1/2 electrical pipe(EMT to the trade) to fit through that hole.So basically I had 24" of pipe sticking out of the 2x4 on both sides of the board.So you can have two sides per level and had mine mounted on casters.Only problem is you have to keep the weight balance so that one side is not alot heavier than the other side.----Carroll

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...5&d=1497873204

Here's a link to a picture Wayne posted in one of my threads of one of his drying racks. Awesome idea!!

[Mike Hoyt]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I have a mobile unit owned made with 2x4's and emt which works well for the lighter weight stuff. I would like to keep it on wheels if possible. Maybe the best bet is to have someone with welding experience make me up a similar deal only made of steel this time. Do you guys cover your emt with some pipe insulation for padding or just run the bare emt?

[Wayne Lomman]

Just swap the pipe for bar. Your existing frame sounds ok if it is 4 x 2's. This will hold up any timber top you put on it. I have done a series of Tasmanian oak tops a little larger than this on my racks and they hold up fine. Remember the weight is distributed across the full length of the bar, not just the end. Cheers

[Carroll Courtney]

Pics explains it so much better

[Mark W Pugh]

IMG_1653.jpg

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...5&d=1497873204

Here's a link to a picture Wayne posted in one of my threads of one of his drying racks. Awesome idea!!

Kinda like that, slight up-cant, and I use 1/2 PVC pipe.