Biscuit joiner slot - Is there Baltic Birch to cut spline matl to fit?

[Marc Jeske]

Thinking about getting a PC 557 Type #3 joiner to cut through spline slots on 45 mitred ends of 1x6 board laid flat, not standing on edge, using benchtop as registration, then use BB plywood cut into splines.

I don't have the joiner available in my hands yet, or I would figure this out myself.

I have tried to Google dimensions, width of cut, AND available BB, had some luck, but still not sure it will work in practice..

Interested in in practice experience.

So, is BB ply made in such thickness that would work well, w like Titebond 2 ?

Not too tight, not too loose ?

Thank you Gentlemen, Marc

[Jamie Buxton]

I wouldn't expect to find plywood that is just the right thickness. The tolerance on that biscuit is darn small.
I'm not clear how you're going to use this. Are you just plunging the joiner, and making the usual football-shaped hole? That is, will your "spline" be the standard biscuit shape? If so, buy standard biscuits. Making your own requires that you get the correct thickness, and that you cut it into the correct football-shaped outline. That's a lot of work to make something you can just buy.
However, if you're going to sweep the joiner sideways to make a slot for some longer spline, I'd do two things. First, I'd buy a slot cutter for your router. It sweeps sideways much easier than the biscuit cutter. You can buy a quarter inch slot cutter, and use 6 mm baltic birch for the spline. It will be a tad loose, but maybe that's good enough for you. To make splines that fit tighter, cut solid lumber to fit your slot. Of course, you want the grain direction in the spline to run across the joint, not with the joint.

[glenn bradley]

I had a PC 557 years ago. Very well made at the time. The slot it cut was 5/32" wide but, I too wonder about what you are trying to accomplish. I sold the 557 and switched to a router since I used biscuits as intended . . . well, it turned out, never . I have a 5/32" slot cutting bit for the router when I want to use biscuits . . . still waiting for the need to do so. I did test it out and it works fine . . . just still waiting for the need to do so . It sounds like you could use a slot cutter and spline stock milled to thickness but, I am not quite grasping the use case.

[Marc Jeske]

OK, probably I should have named this thread - "Best practice method to do production of 1x6 spline joints" .......

Edit - Made new thread w that title.. but keep reading this thread to end first, then go to new thread to respond ... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...e-Miter-joints

I have woodwork experience, but limited.

Biggest project so far was a full set of custom kitchen cabs, entirely made of glued up ash, only ply was for backs and drawer bottoms.


My OP is for a project calling for quantity run of 50 4 sided frames - visualize 1x6 laid flat as in a wide border picture frame, approx 1' wide x 4' high overall size completed.

No other shaping needed, very simple overall.

Visualize this frame as the perimeter of a narrow, long Coffee Table top,... so corner joint appearance is very important.

The 45 miter look is mandated... no half lap butts or anything else.

Also assume, due to table design, the frame I am making here HAS to be strong cornered on it's own.

So that's why I want to miter and spline the ends.


So I gotta cut 400 ends.

Yes, I had in mind to "slide" cut w joiner all the way across the end of board, registering w base and piece on bench, a visible at both ends through spline.

Either multiple plunges, or hopefully slide for flat bottom.

Maybe a combo of both, first plunges, then final slide for flat bottom.

I have never used a plate joiner, but an avid armchair reader about it.

I have also been considering the router option.

Have also looked at router table techniques for miter ends, chipping backing, etc.

Also considering a sled jig for table saw.. I've looked at photos and videos.

ALSO - Am considering gluing up unsplined pieces w Titebond using heavy body CA for clamping, THEN slotting corner DEEP like 2 1/4" on tablesaw sled jig, THEN putting in triangle BB splines w Titebond.

One advantage of that is will be no registration issues of separate parts... as long as my saw jig is close to center, I can more quickly manipulate assembled frames in saw, flipping them on either side.. no one will notice if I'm 1/64" off center.


So really, asking best practice overall to do this.

No matter the method of cutting slot, I need more strength than just a pressed biscuit, I do not want to fool w cutting splines proper direction, just want to cut BB splines for this project.


Thank you all, Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Not sure how to best do this, but I'm asking responses to be continued in NEW thread.. titled - "Best practice method to do production of 1x6 spline joints" in this same sub forum.

I think that title gets closer to what I need to know.

So please respond there, NOT in this thread.

Sorry for confusion. Thank you, Marc

[Thomas Canfield]

I have used the biscuit jointer to cut slots on turnings to insert an arc section of wood planed to biscuit thickness to strengthen cracks and give a contrast wood rather than using a butterfly patch. Using a thickness planer requires using a sled to get the thinner than 1/4" minimum thickness standard to a planer.

[Marc Jeske]

Please continue this thread at -- http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...e-Miter-joints

NOT here.

Thank you, Marc