Jewelry Box Tray Support $$$

[Al Launier]

I'm about to start on a jewelry box project for my daughter which includes a tray that is supported & rides on a tray support. The box will look something like this http://www.rockler.com/jewelry-box-hardware-kit. The tray supports are listed at $79.99 separately and appear to be of good quality, but holy moly they'll cost more than the walnut wood & making the box itself, plus I'll still have to get the hinges & lock. The hardware kit lists for $110, which is less than if I were to purchase the components separately, so the kit price is a savings, but still expensive. Now I have to think whether or not I want to disappoint my daughter because I'm not going to spend that amount on hardware. Plus, my wife wants one too.

Can any of you suggest a less expensive source for jewelry box hardware that is of decent quality?

[Frederick Skelly]

Al, are you hardover that the shelf has to be done like that? I put nice pegs in the inside of mine and the shelf just sits on them. Mom lifts the tray out to get in the bottom. It's just another idea for you.
Fred

[Bradley Gray]

Your daughter would likely love any box her father made for her. Consider a lift out tray - no hardware required.

In the 80's and 90's I made a lot of small boxes to sell at craft fairs. I used 1/8" bronze brazing rod to make pivoting lids and drawers.

[Mike Henderson]

I teach a class on making a jewelry box. You can see the process here. It's a lift out tray.

Mike

[Al Launier]

Thanks for the suggestions - they were great & have given me second thoughts about the design. I was at one time leaning towards a lift tray but couldn't quite get myself there as the support tray concept was "sexy" and I was thinking of the wow factor. Simpler is better, plus it's easier and less costly. You guys have convinced me - thanks.

It just makes much more sense to use the manual lift tray, plus not having such expensive hardware is a more acceptable option for me. I like quadrant hinges and will use those, or perhaps (3) butt hinges, along with a nice lock - a feature that really is important to her. I'm thinking a box that is 12"W x 9"D x 8"H (don't know if this proportion fits the standard guidelines or not). The height should allow for a small recess in the cover for a mirror and the depth should allow a 5" deep tray to allow her to see the bulk of her items below & to grasp one near the front without having to lift the tray, whereas she will lift it to access the items in the rear.

Fred, I like the idea of resting the tray on pins - easy & clean appearance. Plus I won't need a blind groove for the tray support on each side of the box.

I'm planning on using quadrant hinges as I think the length of the hinge will provide better support front to back.

Mike that is a great tutorial - very impressive indeed! You should publish that, if you haven't already. I am book marking this for future reference. I was going to print this, but 53 pages was a bit long to print.

I have made perhaps a only a dozen boxes, starting with band saw boxes then "graduating" to hinged boxes. They managed to come out well and I enjoyed making them. As a hobbyist I prefer smaller projects that don't last too long and don't require more than 2-3-4 at a time. My impatience with repetition drives me towards new projects.

I think one of my favorite boxes was an 8-sided design in which I used a bird's mouth router bit that worked well for these joints - very durable. For this box I'm going to use a miter lock router bit (haven't used before) thinking that will provide a stronger joint than a regular miter joint. In the past I've used splines to strengthen miter joints, but think I won't have to with the miter lock joint.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for the suggestions - they were great & have given me second thoughts about the design. I was at one time leaning towards a lift tray but couldn't quite get myself there as the support tray concept was "sexy" and I was thinking of the wow factor. Simpler is better, plus it's easier and less costly. You guys have convinced me - thanks.

It just makes much more sense to use the manual lift tray, plus not having such expensive hardware is a more acceptable option for me. I like quadrant hinges and will use those along with a nice lock - a feature that really is important to her. I'm thinking a box that is 12"W x 9"D x 8"H (don't know if this proportion fits the standard guidelines or not). The height should allow for a small recess in the cover for a mirror and the depth should allow a 5" deep tray to allow her to see the bulk of her items below & to grasp one near the front without having to lift the tray, whereas she will lift it to access the items in the rear.

Fred, I like the idea of resting the tray on pins - easy & clean appearance. Plus I won't need a blind groove for the tray support on each side of the box.

I'm planning on using quadrant hinges as I think the length of the hinge will provide better support front to back.

While they're expensive, the Brusso JB102 or JB103 stop hinges are a lot easier to put in than quadrant hinges.

Mike

[Lee Schierer]

I made this jewelry box for my granddaughter with lift out trays.
emilyjewel3.jpg
Hardware cost was less than $8.00

[Al Launier]

While they're expensive, the Brusso JB102 or JB103 stop hinges are a lot easier to put in than quadrant hinges.

Mike

Good suggestion Mike. They look durable enough to require only (2) to handle the lid. On the list. Thanks!

[Al Launier]

I made this jewelry box for my granddaughter with lift out trays.
emilyjewel3.jpg
Hardware cost was less than $8.00

Beautiful box Lee. I love the side profiles as well as the inner angle along the top of the sides. I may incorporate your tray concepts except I'll retain the hinges Mike suggested. How did you profile toe sides - coping cut on the table saw for part of it, or did you use a shaper?

[Lee Schierer]

Beautiful box Lee. I love the side profiles as well as the inner angle along the top of the sides. I may incorporate your tray concepts except I'll retain the hinges Mike suggested. How did you profile toe sides - coping cut on the table saw for part of it, or did you use a shaper?

The box is very simply made you buy a length of crown molding from the wood of your choice and cut four pieces with miters on the ends. I made a jig for use with my table mounted router that makes the cut for the feet. I make the dado for the bottom on my table saw.

[Al Launier]

This project is evolving more than anticipated. It's now an elongated 8-sided box with matching tray using more conventional hinges & a lock, but Lee has an interesting idea, I'm going to check that out. Didn't recognize the crown molding - asleep at the wheel.

[Bill Dufour]

I would use a short length of chain and two screws to make a lid support. At those prices you could use solid silver chain instead of brass.
Bill D.

[Jim Barstow]

Why buy the hardware when you can make a better looking mechanism out of wood? I built 6 jewelry boxes at once (for presents) using this mechanism. I drew the design up actual size to work out the location of the pivots and dimensions of the pivot arm. It works great and assembly after finishing is easy.

IMG_2225.jpg IMG_2226.jpg IMG_2227.jpg IMG_2228.jpg

I've also made boxes where there was a lift out tray but this design is much more satisfying. Plus, when you lift out the tray you need to put it down somewhere; this is much more user friendly.

[Al Launier]

Jim that is very clever & very appealing to the eye. Gonna have to remember this one for sure! Am saving for future use. Nice work indeed!

[Al Launier]

Mike I just finished looking at your Project Gallery (http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/Gallery) & I have to say I'm truly in awe of your work. Your work is so beautiful & well made. I could never envision myself in your league of woodworking. You are an artist! These projects belong in a museum. I hope others look at your work - so impressive! You must spend so much time creating & making these projects. My wife was astounded!