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Thread: tried johnson's paste wax. keeps leaving tacky surface. what am I doing wrong?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    My experience with Johnson's and other waxes is that if you don't buff them out enough they are sticky and or hazy. On your car you buff until it shines. You need to do this with your tabletop too. Note that it doesn't take much wax to do the table top. Who said "wax on, wax off".
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  2. #32
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    I use JPW. I wipe it on with a paper towel or whatever applicator is left in the can I have marked "tools". In a few moments it starts to glaze over. I wipe it off with paper towels using a rapid back and forth or circular motion. Once the paper towels come away clean I give it a final wipe back and forth over the whole surface. Toss a shop towel at the surface and it will shoot right across. I also use JPW for sled bottoms and other shellac'd jig surfaces I want slippery. The new green tinted stuff we get in California is not as good. My next purchase for this purpose will follow a bit of research.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I use JPW. I wipe it on with a paper towel or whatever applicator is left in the can I have marked "tools". In a few moments it starts to glaze over. I wipe it off with paper towels using a rapid back and forth or circular motion. Once the paper towels come away clean I give it a final wipe back and forth over the whole surface. Toss a shop towel at the surface and it will shoot right across. I also use JPW for sled bottoms and other shellac'd jig surfaces I want slippery. The new green tinted stuff we get in California is not as good. My next purchase for this purpose will follow a bit of research.
    Yeah, California screws everything up.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    Sounds like you are putting it on to thick. Just take a cloth, rub it on the surface of the wax in the can to gather some wax. Apply to the cast iron table in a very thin film in a circular motion. Should be dry enough in about 1 minute and you should be able to buff it out very easily.
    I apply Johnson Paste wax to my cast iron table tops with #0000 steel wool. This removes any light surface rust and spreads the JPW evenly. After the top is coated, I immediately close up the can and wipe off the top with an old tee shirt.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 07-26-2017 at 7:23 AM.
    Lee Schierer
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    After the top is coated, I immediately close up the can and wife off the top with an old tee shirt.
    Given that the 'f' and the 'p' are nowhere near each other on the keyboard, Id love to know what was in your head at the time ...



    Back on topic- thin coats. not complicated.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Zellers View Post
    Given that the 'f' and the 'p' are nowhere near each other on the keyboard, Id love to know what was in your head at the time ...



    Back on topic- thin coats. not complicated.
    Now that's funny!
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  7. #37
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    Johnson's Paste Wax is like "Brylcream -- a little dab will do ya!"

  8. #38
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    "Too thick" and over drying ( I've sometimes left my application on overnight) is NO problem, just takes a bit more pressure, elbow grease.

    I like old T shirt, any shop towel that's clean is fine, not in a big soft ball, but just 2 layers thick, and w PRESSURE till bulk of residue comes off, then lighten pressure to finish.

    I think you may not be removing the residue due to not pressing hard enough.

    It will be obvious when the excess is removed, will turn slick when rubbed w fresh clean side of cloth.

    Old Johnson is TOTALLY fine... ONLY benefit of some fancier $$ stuff or like Boeshield is maybe longevity.

    In my experience anyway.

    Very simple. Marc



    Ya, end result this above.

    No fancy $$$ stuff needed.

    The steel wood pad applicator great idea, store the used pad in the can.

    Rub it on as hard as you wish to smooth the micro rust.

    That pad is then impregnated w the wax by then, totally silly to throw away.

    Of course, that tin of wax, once steel wool has been dipped into it, is then dedicated for tabletop or similar use forever.

    NO longer suitable for final finish on your next Jewelry Box w micro bits of steel to cause possible rust spots on workpiece.


    If I may say, end of story. Marc

  9. #39
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    One slight Edit - I myself have always left a small rag applicator in my can.

    Not Steel wool... I'm thinking it may rust in can and leave a total mess, I don't know.

    But as an applicator for cast tables, great idea. Marc

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    One slight Edit - I myself have always left a small rag applicator in my can.

    Not Steel wool... I'm thinking it may rust in can and leave a total mess, I don't know.

    But as an applicator for cast tables, great idea. Marc
    I've used steel wool for 40 years and never had a pad rust. They do wear out after a while.
    Lee Schierer
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    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  11. #41
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    I have a tiny amount of rust (not much in the San Diego area) on the planer table, and I've been coating it with Boshield. I'd like to switch to wax,

    what's a good cleaner to use before waxing??

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Graywacz View Post
    Some of you guys must be doing something wrong. Waxing the top of a machine takes about 2 minutes total. Putting it on, waiting for it to dry and buffing it out.

    I've been using Trewax
    We do seem to be able to over-involve nearly anything if we try .

    I wax quickly and frequently. There is a small amount of elbow grease involved but, the pain is over in a very short period of time .
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    I skip the buffing step and let the wood do my buffing. If im settling in for a long jointing session, ill take a block of wax in my hand and rub the tables and fence down, then immediately turn the machine on and work. Same for the planer and table saw. I used to buff, but i dont think i noticed an appreciable performance difference for the additional time invested.

    If you are doing this to protect from moisture, then i can see buffing the entire surface.
    Not in my shop.....

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Wood View Post
    I have a tiny amount of rust (not much in the San Diego area) on the planer table, and I've been coating it with Boshield. I'd like to switch to wax,

    what's a good cleaner to use before waxing??
    Fine wet or dry sandpaper dry.

  15. #45
    Too much wax. Multiple thin coats, not a big ol' gloopy one.

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