I use JPW. I wipe it on with a paper towel or whatever applicator is left in the can I have marked "tools". In a few moments it starts to glaze over. I wipe it off with paper towels using a rapid back and forth or circular motion. Once the paper towels come away clean I give it a final wipe back and forth over the whole surface. Toss a shop towel at the surface and it will shoot right across. I also use JPW for sled bottoms and other shellac'd jig surfaces I want slippery. The new green tinted stuff we get in California is not as good. My next purchase for this purpose will follow a bit of research.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 07-26-2017 at 7:23 AM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
Johnson's Paste Wax is like "Brylcream -- a little dab will do ya!"
"Too thick" and over drying ( I've sometimes left my application on overnight) is NO problem, just takes a bit more pressure, elbow grease.
I like old T shirt, any shop towel that's clean is fine, not in a big soft ball, but just 2 layers thick, and w PRESSURE till bulk of residue comes off, then lighten pressure to finish.
I think you may not be removing the residue due to not pressing hard enough.
It will be obvious when the excess is removed, will turn slick when rubbed w fresh clean side of cloth.
Old Johnson is TOTALLY fine... ONLY benefit of some fancier $$ stuff or like Boeshield is maybe longevity.
In my experience anyway.
Very simple. Marc
Ya, end result this above.
No fancy $$$ stuff needed.
The steel wood pad applicator great idea, store the used pad in the can.
Rub it on as hard as you wish to smooth the micro rust.
That pad is then impregnated w the wax by then, totally silly to throw away.
Of course, that tin of wax, once steel wool has been dipped into it, is then dedicated for tabletop or similar use forever.
NO longer suitable for final finish on your next Jewelry Box w micro bits of steel to cause possible rust spots on workpiece.
If I may say, end of story. Marc
One slight Edit - I myself have always left a small rag applicator in my can.
Not Steel wool... I'm thinking it may rust in can and leave a total mess, I don't know.
But as an applicator for cast tables, great idea. Marc
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
I have a tiny amount of rust (not much in the San Diego area) on the planer table, and I've been coating it with Boshield. I'd like to switch to wax,
what's a good cleaner to use before waxing??
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Too much wax. Multiple thin coats, not a big ol' gloopy one.