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Thread: tried johnson's paste wax. keeps leaving tacky surface. what am I doing wrong?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    used carnuba from car stuff. Its old, forgot the brand, can rusted out now in a plastic container and has mold on it. Machines are sometimes too damp it still work just a bit more work to it. Havnet had finishing issues from it though thinking about it doesnt seem right. Never heard of JPW will look it up.
    JPW = Johnson's paste wax.
    You have to be careful with car waxes, most contain silicone which can create havoc with wood finishing.
    Last edited by Bruce Page; 07-25-2017 at 1:27 PM.
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  2. #17
    Sounds like you are putting it on to thick. Just take a cloth, rub it on the surface of the wax in the can to gather some wax. Apply to the cast iron table in a very thin film in a circular motion. Should be dry enough in about 1 minute and you should be able to buff it out very easily.

  3. #18
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    "Too thick" and over drying ( I've sometimes left my application on overnight) is NO problem, just takes a bit more pressure, elbow grease.

    I like old T shirt, any shop towel that's clean is fine, not in a big soft ball, but just 2 layers thick, and w PRESSURE till bulk of residue comes off, then lighten pressure to finish.

    I think you may not be removing the residue due to not pressing hard enough.

    It will be obvious when the excess is removed, will turn slick when rubbed w fresh clean side of cloth.

    Old Johnson is TOTALLY fine... ONLY benefit of some fancier $$ stuff or like Boeshield is maybe longevity.

    In my experience anyway.

    Very simple. Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 07-25-2017 at 1:13 AM.

  4. #19
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    Okay, think about this. You have just applied Johnson's paste wax to your hardwood floors and step out on them. Oops, your feet go one way and your a-- goes another! That's what would happen except------------------Johnson's puts an anti-slip agent in the wax to prevent this from happening. So, even though you keep waxing it never gets super, super slick.

    Now, think about the bowling alley. You throw the ball and what does it do? It spins for several feet, then gains traction and hooks. Watch any bowling ball (thrown with a hook) and you will realize this is true. So what you want to buy is Bowling Alley Wax. I buy it several cans at a time and use it everywhere I want a slick surface.

    Never use it on your floor.

  5. #20
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    Frankly I think buffing out wax on my tools is a PITA. I picked up a compact buffer/polisher at an estate sale a few years ago (a mongrel brand still working) and that has turned things around. I even wax my tools more often because of the buffer. There are several available at HD, Lowes & auto parts stores. As with a car run it slow
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  6. #21
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    I always thought it was the oil they put on a bowling alley that makes it slick. The ball gains traction where they don't put the oil.

  7. #22
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    I skip the buffing step and let the wood do my buffing. If im settling in for a long jointing session, ill take a block of wax in my hand and rub the tables and fence down, then immediately turn the machine on and work. Same for the planer and table saw. I used to buff, but i dont think i noticed an appreciable performance difference for the additional time invested.

    If you are doing this to protect from moisture, then i can see buffing the entire surface.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    used carnuba from car stuff. Its old, forgot the brand, can rusted out now in a plastic container and has mold on it. Machines are sometimes too damp it still work just a bit more work to it. Havnet had finishing issues from it though thinking about it doesnt seem right. Never heard of JPW will look it up.
    Most car waxes contain silicone. When silicone gets on your wood projects it will cause fish eyes in your finish. Spots where stain and poly won't stay on in your finishing steps. Once silicone gets on things, it's a nightmare for a woodworker. I have banned it, or anything containing it from my wood shop. I looks great on cars, but it's a finishing nightmare when it gets on your wood. It's also invisible and doesn't clean off easily.

  9. #24
    More pressure and more buffing.

    Just keep buffing till it's smooth. Just like car wax.

    i just started using it and love it.

  10. #25
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    Central Missouri, U.S.
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    I'm told that Johnson's contains no silicone, so that's what I use. Does Rennaisance Wax have silicones?

  11. #26
    non of the car waxes or polishes i use have silicons or fillers in them. I dont buff the tops but do buff cars will try a bufer but dont see a reason hand application and removal is fine.

  12. #27
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    A can of Johnson's floor wax has lasted me for about 15 years. My saw table has no rust during that time. I live in Galveston County Texas.

    I use Renaissance wax on finishes.

  13. #28
    Some of you guys must be doing something wrong. Waxing the top of a machine takes about 2 minutes total. Putting it on, waiting for it to dry and buffing it out.

    I've been using Trewax

  14. #29
    I've had the same problem as the op. I use Minwax brand paste wax. My can is a few years old and getting a bit dry. I used it on my new table saw and it was worse after I put it on. I added some mineral spirits to the can, let it sit overnight. Then it was about the consistency of soft butter. This made it much easier to wipe on a very thin coat. I buffed it out immediately after applying. If it's thin enough, it takes very little effort to buff off the excess. I'm not an expert here, but this may mean I will have to reapply more often. Hope this helps!

  15. #30
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    My experience with Johnson's and other waxes is that if you don't buff them out enough they are sticky and or hazy. On your car you buff until it shines. You need to do this with your tabletop too. Note that it doesn't take much wax to do the table top. Who said "wax on, wax off".

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