Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 35

Thread: Dadoes - Table Saw or Router

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    For large pieces my setup is better for a tablesaw (just takes some fussing to get the dado stack and spacers right) unless I decide to hold the router and use a straightedge. My router table is too small for most stuff like this
    Let me clarify my earlier comment. When I said "router", I meant hand held router. A table router has the same issues as the table saw in needing to have the panel held down hard over the tool.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New York City
    Posts
    176
    I use my router, or router table. Should use the table saw, but I just takes longer to set up.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,548
    With me, it depends on what material you are cutting. I tried cutting 12" long dado's on melamine particle board for shelving units in a pantry, and after only two cuts, I could feel the router bit (Woodline shear bit) getting dull. That stuff is really abrasive.

    Cutting the same shelves in real wood, I would not hesitate to use a router, but with dozens on cuts to make on that melamine particle board, I finished the job with my old Craftsman RAS, that I bought years ago just for shelving dado's. I used an old dado set to do it also, to save my good one.

    Longer dado's get done on the TS for me normally.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  4. #19
    I have a great 4 wing carbide dado set that cuts almost perfect dado's but have found that in most case the router is faster, has a better cut quality and is more accurate. What makes it easy is I have a rail guided micro adjusting router jig - I start with a undersized bit and sneak up on the perfect fit with a few final passes. Even with a few finish passes per cut it is less time than a number of test cuts with a dado set. In addition things like a tapered sliding dovetail are a piece of cake.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    943
    I don't own a dado blade right now. The only time I will use my table saw is when cutting a 1/4" or less width dado making 2 passes with a full-kerf blade, like the dadoes in drawer sides for drawer bottoms. However, if I need to do a stopped dado that narrow I will do it on my router table. I get a much more crisp dado; completely flat bottom and I find I can get the depth more easily to the exact depth I need with a router (mostly on my router table).

  6. #21
    I've never understood why people who have a router table and a table saw use the table saw for dados. Maybe it's something I'd have to do once or twice to understand. I always use my router table. It's way fast to set up and no screwing around with dado stacks. Again, I've never used one but I see tip after tip and product after product promising to make dado stack setup fast and accurate. I live by this rule that any time there are endless tips about the same thing then that thing has a fundamental problem that hasn't been solved.

    They also make under-size router bits specifically for plywood. I have a Freud set and it's dead on. At most I might have to make one tiny adjustment of my fence and take a second pass if the plywood is a little thicker than usual but one pass works more often than not.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    I agree with Glenn and that's why I use a router to cut dados. The router follows the surface of the wood and therefore cuts a consistent depth. On the table saw, unless you have some method of pushing the panel down (hard and over the blade) you can get dados of varying depth which causes you problems when you go to put the cross member into the dado. You can have a shelf, for example, that shows a gap at the front because the dado further back is not as deep as the dado in the front.

    Mike
    I bought my first router plane to fix exactly the problem Mike is describing for TS-made dados. It isn't perfect but it helps a lot.

    OP: You should use whichever tool you are more comfortable with. That's usually a little safer, as long as you don't get complacent. Personally, I use the TS (and router plane) if I have several dados to do. If I only have a few, I cut them by hand.

    Aside: I once saw Paul Sellers use a backsaw and a chisel to cut a dado - it looked like he'd used a tailed router, they were so consistent and perfect.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    I spent some time thinking about this, and, I have a strong preference for using my table saw. For me this is simply more reliable and easier to control. That said, if you have a method with which you are comfortable, I would just use that. You get good results with a router, use the router.

    The last one I cut, I did do on the router table because I wanted a stopped cut.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    I bought my first router plane to fix exactly the problem Mike is describing for TS-made dados. It isn't perfect but it helps a lot.
    That's a good idea, Frederick. I have a router plane but always went to the hand held tailed router because of the problem.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  10. #25
    we've got several cabinet makers in the area and i asked one owner that very question.
    his response was that he uses a wobble dado blade on his TS. he said it worked great for
    what they do.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    That's a good idea, Frederick. I have a router plane but always went to the hand held tailed router because of the problem.

    Mike
    Glad you found it helpful Mike. I've learned several useful things from you, so I'm glad to "give back" a little.
    Fred

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, SC
    Posts
    2,378
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    When I'm cutting dadoes into pairs of plywood panels - a top and bottom, 2 sides of a cabinet - for shelving or dividers as you show, I prefer to use the router and a sled. Either I cut the dadoes into the full sheet then rip the 2 sides to the depth of cabinet dimension or make up my separate pairs all sized and ready to go - clamp them together accurately and cross dadoe both pieces at once.

    Seems easier to control the depth of cut, the width of the dadoes, and to get perfect alignment left to right or top to bottom - especially on larger panels.
    That's the way I do it and I know the shelves will line up properly. I have a separate small table saw with dado blades on it for making rabbets.
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
    I Support the Second Amendment of the US Constitution

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    odessa, missouri
    Posts
    1,910
    Blog Entries
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Randal Blair View Post
    I'm not sure as to when to use my table saw or my router when cutting dadoes.
    I built this small tool cabinet to store hand held power tools and free up drawers to hold other items.
    While building the cabinet it occurred to me that I could use my stacked dadoe blades on my TS and use it to cut them
    but it is so much easier for me to use the router w/plywood router bits I have and it is so easy to set up and use.
    I went the router way but I seem to second guess myself often and wondered if there
    Is there a preferred method here?
    Attachment 364712Attachment 364713Attachment 364714Attachment 364715
    I use the router in the table saw with the saw fence. Works perfect. I rarely put the dado blades in unless there's no other way...

    I use a lot of MDF core for finished ends for flatness....

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    odessa, missouri
    Posts
    1,910
    Blog Entries
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by richard b miller View Post
    we've got several cabinet makers in the area and i asked one owner that very question.
    his response was that he uses a wobble dado blade on his TS. he said it worked great for
    what they do.
    Grew up and work in cabinet shops in Northwest Al and never used a wobble blade to make a dado....

    Always thought Northeast people were weird ....

  15. #30
    I would use my radial arm saw and a good stack dado to cut those through dados. You get the advantage of being able to see the work as you would with a router and don't have to try to wrestle a large board on top of a cabinet saw. You also have the ability to fine tune dado width that would be more difficult to do with a router. The only downside is that you need a pretty expensive dado stack to fit the 1" arbor on a long arm saw that has enough crosscut length to be useful. I have a 12" Freud Super Dado on a medium arm DeWalt GE that can make a dado about 27" long.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •