Realistic square cut accuracy expectations?

[Hans Friedebach]

Whether using a table saw or a track saw, what accuracy do you expect every day for 90 degree cuts on sheet goods? - for a 30" cabinet side, for example.
What accuracy do you regularly achieve and how do you measure it?
tell me if you're a working Pro or serious DIY and whether your response is basd on your table- or track saw usage - or no difference

I am asked this question by different people and want to be able to offer a wider experience based "consensus" - not just my own opinion
Hans

[Steve Eure]

When it comes to cutting anything, I'm, as my bride would say, "anal", when it comes to accuracy. Because I have a small shop, I generally cut my sheet goods outside on a table I made using a Bora Saw guide and a Craftsman circular saw. Using the guide is extremely accurate if my measurements are precise. Even with that, if the part is smaller, I'll cut it a 1/2" or so over and then take it to the tablesaw for precision. I generally get a better cut on the tablesaw because of having a better quality blade on it.

[James Zhu]

If the table saw or track saw cannot make square cut, it is useless for making fine furniture.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I assume you refer to the panel surface being square not the edges being square to the top.
I have no problems achieving a square cut with my Festool TS55 on my MFT/3 or on my Bridgewood cabinet saw with an Incra fence system. I mean well under 1/16" of square and most often better than that. It all depends upon your setup and the repeatability of your tools. Once set up I no longer verify the accuracy as both tools hold their calibration unless I make some major changes. I use an 18" triangle from Woodpecker to check setup on the MFT and a dial gauge for my table saw to check blade and fence.

[Cary Falk]

I expect better results on my table saw than my track saw. I use my track saw to break down plywood or the occasional odd angle cut. I have a JessEm sliding table on my table saw. How accurate am I? As close as my measuring device. What do I use to measure? A Woodpecker precision 26" square for the big stuff and a 12" for the smaller stuff. I am a hobbiest not a pro.

[Brian Holcombe]

Ive never gotten a finished cut off a track saw, nor do I expect one. They're usually square enough to work but definetly not comparable to a better piece of machinery or hand tuning.

Im working on a kitchen currently and one of the benefits of a track saw is that you can cut out of square with greater ease.

[Sam Murdoch]

For sheet goods - ply parts as you describe - 30" cabinet side - I generally use my track saw. Always rip off a new edge not the factory edge. Such a straight cut with the guide rail is typically more than straight enough. I find that it is essential, when making long track saw rips, that the supporting table be as absolutely flat as you can achieve so that the rail is not deflected in the length of the cut. My work surface is an 1-1/2" piece of MDF on strong back frame and solid horses (was hoping for a nice FELDER lift table ) and with a sheet of 1/2" insulation as my sacrifice board under my cut sheet.

The difficulty with the track saw/accuracy is in establishing square cuts on both ends of those 30" sides. By square in this case I mean tolerances of 1/64" or less. No parts more than that are considered accurate enough. I use the Woodpecker 26" square and careful layout. For multiple cross cuts of the same dimension I use a pair of guides that clamp to my rail and register off the end of my 1st square cut.

I don't hesitate to use a track saw for accuracy with plywood cuts or for tall doors that might be unwieldy on the table saw but I very rarely use the track saw for sizing doors or most other solid wood square cuts. Table saw with very accurate homemade sled is my preferred method. I wish I had a sliding table saw but I don't.

Full time professional but in no way a production shop guy is how I characterize myself. I take more time for set up than most others would tolerate but I work with my system and I do good work IMHO .

[Hans Friedebach]

thank you all for your prompt and detailed responses.
I am hoping to get more data to provide a more statistically relevant sample.
I am curious at the reports that you can't get an accurate finished square surface cut with a track saw. I know a number of seriously professional remodelers who do it all the time. Have any of you had any experience like the one shown on this YouTube :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmNyPvsfSCo

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I don't own a "track" saw, I have a guide that I use to rough cut the ply.
I expect my table saw to cut a square edge every time I use it. Assuming you start with one square edge. If this requires a trim cut then that's what I do. IMO if you set up your table saw, and it is a good one, you should be able to expect a near perfect cut every time. I'm not a pro. I do have a 52" saw, so this makes things a bit easier to rip 30".

[Frederick Skelly]

I guess I don't quite understand the question. I mean, I cut sheet goods square to the accuracy of my best square. I setup the table saw to that standard and check it regularly. If I happen to make a cut an it isn't square, it gets tuned. With the tracksaw, I cut oversize then put it on the tablesaw and cut to size. My joints align and fit tightly, so I think I'm getting it right?

[Bill Dufour]

You need to be much more specific. People here are saying it is square but I do not think anyone here is using a scraped in square to measure it. Same as people measure the flatness of a table saw with a old level not a precision straightedge . That kind of accuracy is not practical in wood since the wood moves with changes in humidity and temperature much more then the gauging stuff allows. I have checked my tools but not with precision meteorology gear since what i have is plenty good enough for the quality of my work and my machines.
i do not think anyone ever worries about holding measuring tool in their bare hands when measuring wood. It is an issue with precision metal working. There is a good reason all quality micrometers have a plastic handle on the arm.
Bill D
I have read that a difference in 1/1000 of an inch is the smallest you can see in a flat wood surface so anything that is good to 1/1000 or less is plenty good enough in wood. Holding a micrometer in your bare hands can easily expand it by 1/1000 in a few minutes.

A starrett 12" square is about $700, but it comes with certification.
http://www.starrett.com/metrology/pr.../20-12%20W~SLC

[glenn bradley]

When setting up a tablesaw sled I shoot for about .001" over 18" or so. Everyone has there "close enough". .001" over the length of my fence, blade parallelism or right angles over 18" or so works for me.

[Martin Wasner]

Running a sheet on the tablesaw, without a sled or slider, all you're doing is making a smaller version of the full sheet since you're working off of two edges rather than one. If the sheet isn't square, your part will not be square. Sheets are rarely square.

I don't expect much from a track saw, it's completely up to the operator setting the track down where ours going to end up

My panel saw was set up with .005" in a bit under 4' of cut. Where it's at presently for accuracy, I don't know, but I haven't noticed anything being off anything noticeable since I moved it. That number was determined doing a five sided cut to figure out which way to adjust it. Measuring for square you can 3,4,5 two edges, or just measure corner to corner, which is my usual go to method.

[Andrew Hughes]

I cut some very good Birch plywood with my portercable saw boss and a straight edge.The parts came out perfect and that was the best day of my life.
The proof was obvious when I assembled everything.Square and true
I still remember that day.

[Frederick Skelly]

I'll be the odd man out again. I just don't believe that wood needs to be square to less than about 1/64". I'm sorry, I just don't buy that as "required". I've built many nice projects with tight joints, working as I do.

Now if somebody wants to work to that standard "just because they do", I respect that.
Fred