Question - How would you do this?

[Keith Outten]

Turn the iPad 180 degrees so the button is on the top, end of problem since the screen will automatically rotate.

[Stan Calow]

Harold beat me to it. Dremel tool.

[Bruce Page]

Turn the iPad 180 degrees so the button is on the top, end of problem since the screen will automatically rotate.

Keith, where's the fun in that!?

[Edwin Santos]

Whichever of these methods you use, I don't see why you can't make the groove as the second step and locate it precisely so you remove the "other" side of the notch to end up with the result you want.

Have you considered angling the groove?

[Frederick Skelly]

File/rasp.

My thoughts exactly.

[Martin Wasner]

Oh, thought the top came off. Quick pass with a carving knife?

Might be easier to make it in two pieces and glue two halves together then cut the slot to hold the tablet?

[Bruce Page]

My thoughts exactly.

Fine for 2 or 3, but for 30?

[Darcy Warner]

Might be easier to make it in two pieces and glue two halves together then cut the slot to hold the tablet?

I'd just do the dimple thingy first then remove the top part with the groove. I don't own an ipaddy thingy.

[Andrew Hughes]

+1 here on a file I could make that notch in 5 or 6 minutes.Who hold their iPad Veritcal? We have three of them here we always hold the with the button on the left.

[Bill Dufour]

You could fill the groove after the cut with a contrasting wood or even epoxy. Not quite sure why the groove is an issue?
For jobs like this I often use a big countersink or a counterbore to enlarge a drilled hole
Bill

[John Lanciani]

Who hold their iPad Veritcal? We have three of them here we always hold the with the button on the left.

Who holds them with the home button on the left? That puts the volume buttons on the bottom! Button right is the only way! Seriously though, its more natural reading a book with the iPad vertical.

[Frederick Skelly]

Fine for 2 or 3, but for 30?

Would be for me Bruce, but maybe not him. Doesn't look hard or time consuming, unless I've missed something.

[Bruce Page]

Speaking for myself only, I could build a simple locating fixture and plunge the scallop on 30 pcs faster, easier, and with more consistent results than I could do 5 pcs with a file/rasp. And my fingers would be a lot happier.

I played around a little more with the cad model and eyeballing the iPad and block interface. The end result looks almost like the original. You would need to do the 1” ball mill plunge before the slot. Easy peesy, IMO.

[Doug Hepler]

Drill the angled hole before you cut the dado. I think an ordinary twist drill would suffice. A Forstner would not work. Finish with a small drum sander.

[Gene Takae]

F

Also, router bits and endmills rarely play nice in a drill press but it never hurts to try. You may get lucky.

I have used router bits in a drill press and have to agree with this. Not enough RPM's to achieve a nice finish.