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Thread: Painting Construction Grade Lumber White

  1. #1

    Painting Construction Grade Lumber White

    I'm building my wfie a table, since she wanted white painted legs and aprons, I decided to just go with construction grade lumber since it's my first big project. I want to invest in something that will work for future projects that may need to be painted white. I do have a good air compressor and a habor freight HVLP gun that hasn't been used yet. I read a lot of good things about white lacquer, something you can get at Sherwin Williams. But then I read it shows a lot of flaws in the wood and knowing construction grade lumber, there can be a lot of flaws. I've planed everything down and will sand it to whatever needed. Is white lacquer something I could use without terrible results? Or should I look into something else? It doesn't have to look perfect but I want something that will be durable.

    Thanks for any help!

    Adam

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Bower View Post
    I'm building my wfie a table, since she wanted white painted legs and aprons, I decided to just go with construction grade lumber since it's my first big project. I want to invest in something that will work for future projects that may need to be painted white. I do have a good air compressor and a habor freight HVLP gun that hasn't been used yet. I read a lot of good things about white lacquer, something you can get at Sherwin Williams. But then I read it shows a lot of flaws in the wood and knowing construction grade lumber, there can be a lot of flaws. I've planed everything down and will sand it to whatever needed. Is white lacquer something I could use without terrible results? Or should I look into something else? It doesn't have to look perfect but I want something that will be durable.

    Thanks for any help!

    Adam
    Prime with Zinser BIN primer, the shellac based stuff. That will seal down the wood, any small knots or sap pockets. Maybe shoot two coats and sand back. If necessary, you can apply a putty filler (Timbermate, etc.) on top of the primer as it will make any flaws quite visible. One more quick coat over the filler after sanding.

    Then you can topcoat with the white lacquer of your choice.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    +1 on what Rob said. Whenever you paint the answer is generally the same . . . good surface prep, good primer and good top coat. Fine woodworking has a few articles on obtaining a fine painted finish. Unfortunately most of the better ones require membership. Just in case you are a member, this one is very good as far as dealing with challenges of paint on furniture. There are others of a more general nature but, all basically say the same thing; prep, prime, paint.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    I too agree with Rob. I've used Sealcoat (2# cut dewaxed shellac) on raw wood then a quick sanding - shellac is dry in 20 minutes in reasonable drying conditions - then the top coat of your choice. DeWaxed Shellac will stick to most anything and most anything will stick to DeWaxed Shellac so yeah. I've also used SealCoat and TransTint as a toner to match existing finishes. Pretty useful stuff but it's best applied by spraying because it dries so fast. You have that covered.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Young View Post
    Prime with Zinser BIN primer, the shellac based stuff. That will seal down the wood, any small knots or sap pockets. Maybe shoot two coats and sand back. If necessary, you can apply a putty filler (Timbermate, etc.) on top of the primer as it will make any flaws quite visible. One more quick coat over the filler after sanding.

    100x YES! Zinnzer BIN Primer is your answer here. The one you want is in the white and RED can, not the blue can. The blue can is the water based product and it does not work as well as the red.

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