Taintor Positive No. 7 Saw set help, please.

[Mike Baker 2]

Hi,
I recently acquired a Taintor Positive No. 7 saw set.
It has a knob that adjusts the set for different TPI, but I cannot get the thing to budge. I think it is frozen, but not certain. Before I go after it with a pair of pliers, has anyone used this saw set, and is there a trick to getting the adjustment knob to turn, or do you just twist it in the direction you want to go?
Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

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[Pete Taran]

Wrap some masking tape around that knob to protect it and loosen it with pliers. Doesn't look too rusted to me and shouldn't take much effort. Once it's loose, take it apart and clean it with mineral spirits and then apply some oil to the threads. That will keep it from seizing.

Not a big fan of the #7 as you rely on what someone else thinks the set should be for a given tooth size, not what you want it to be. It does work, but don't blindly use the numbers stamped on the anvil as the one to use for your saw.

Regards,

Pete

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks, Pete.
As for the settings, I have been reading up on one of the sites usually linked here for sharpening/setting up saws. I cannot remember which one, but the gentleman recommends the smallest amount of set you can get away with. The problem with that is figuring out just exactly how to get a consistent set from tooth to tooth without any kind of guide.
I assume that the smaller the tooth count the bigger the kerf needed(more set on a 6 tpi than an 8 tpi), so what I may do is use the highest setting(12 tpi), test the saw and see. Rinse and repeat until satisfied. Maybe?

[Pete Taran]

Check out some of the articles in the library section of my website: vintagesaws.com All will be revealed. I like to set saws after filing, which is not conventional. When you file, you are removing some of the set so it's hard to figure out exactly what you need for a given saw. I like to file first, put some masking tape on the saw set where the teeth touch, and then apply the set. A good rule of thumb is to make the width of the set 25% or so wider than the plate thickness. If you use a micrometer, you can figure this out easily. Finally, get it right on a small section of teeth under the handle. You don't use those to cut. Sneak up on the measurement with your set until it's where you want it.

[Mike Baker 2]

Check out some of the articles in the library section of my website: vintagesaws.com All will be revealed. I like to set saws after filing, which is not conventional. When you file, you are removing some of the set so it's hard to figure out exactly what you need for a given saw. I like to file first, put some masking tape on the saw set where the teeth touch, and then apply the set. A good rule of thumb is to make the width of the set 25% or so wider than the plate thickness. If you use a micrometer, you can figure this out easily. Finally, get it right on a small section of teeth under the handle. You don't use those to cut. Sneak up on the measurement with your set until it's where you want it.

That sounds like a good plan.
Once again, thank you. Much appreciated.

[lowell holmes]

I have a Taintor 7. It is a sweet saw set. I think a lot of carpenters might have kept them in the old days when Carpenters sharpened their on saws.

I'm not a carpenter, but I do sharpen and set my own saws. My daddy did it before me, and I followed suit. I have his old saw set as well.

The knob turns counterclockwise. I sometimes have to use pliers on the nut.

Pete, I agree, don't blindly use the numbers. I experiment with the setting to get the set on my saw I am looking for. I also have successfully hammer set saw teeth.
Getting the proper set on a saw is part of the sharpening technique.

[Jim Koepke]

Two words might help, penetrating oil.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Once you break it loose, lubrication would help. Mine has never rusted and it can be difficult to turn.

[Mike Baker 2]

Got it loose with a piece of leather and pliers. All lubed up and working properly, now.
Thank you, gentlemen. Much appreciated for your time and help.

[steven c newman]

Yes, this IS an OLD Post...but I was doing a bit of research into one of the tools I picked earlier today..
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Mainly that Saw Set with the badly wrapped handles...about 1/8" deep black tape..

Has 5 patent dates on the handle..Taintor MFG CO. New York, USA....Taintor's Positive No. 7

Spent $3 for it, even! Of the 2 chisels...one is an "EasyCut"3/4"...the other has a BBB of Cleveland Logo, and is 5/8" wide...

Screwdriver is just a ratcheting one, with 6 bits...including a 1/4" drive piece, with a 1/4" socket on board..

4 items, @ $3 each...

Still researching about that Taintor saw set...

[steven c newman]

No.7 Saw Set by Taintor MFG Co. New York, USA.

Has fancy lettering on the handle. and FIVE patent dates....last one being July 30, 1907.

10 layaers of plastic tape on the handles has been removed,now.

Gave the working parts a shot of WD40....things are working a bit smoother now.

The 2 chisels will be just "Beater/Loaner" chisels, for now.

Screwdriver has been placed with the Household Tools set.

The shop was in need of a saw set...so now it has one.

[steven c newman]

Photos?

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Fancy lettering: TAINTOR'S POSITIVE No. 7
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And there is 5 patent dates..
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Cleaned up nicely enough..

Not too bad, for $3?

[Jimmy Harris]

They work pretty well and are easy to use. My only complaint is that they also tend to mar the saw plate just below the teeth. Or mine does anyway. It doesn't affect usage, but it might be worth trying on a cheaper saw before taking it to your most expensive ones.

[steven c newman]

Maybe check that flat plate that grips the saw before the striker hits the tooth? There MIGHT be a few burrs on it? Maybe use a file along that plate to smooth it out?