Looking through the Highland woodworking website I noticed that there are now two versions of the Knew Concepts Fret saw. Anybody try out the Mk4 yet? Higher tension, but also higher weight. How does that affect usability.
John
Looking through the Highland woodworking website I noticed that there are now two versions of the Knew Concepts Fret saw. Anybody try out the Mk4 yet? Higher tension, but also higher weight. How does that affect usability.
John
Since KC does not demarcate their saws by "mk x", can you be more specific to which saw you are referring?
If it is the "Birdcage" style, these have been out for some time. I wrote a review in 2013 ....
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...geFretsaw.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek, they do list the Mark IV as heavy-duty version, capable of more tension. It's on their site now, and also on the Highland site as mentioned above.
Was up in the air on this when Craftsman Studios started carrying the 'Heavy Duty' version, but ended up keeping the standard edition for shell work and the coping saw for dovetail waste...
Mine must by the Mk3 and has made me much more confident in the use of a fret saw.
According to the write up on the Highland page it looks like the Mk4 can pull even more tension on the blade and the blade can swivel a full 360º. That is a feature that would have had me wanting the Mk4 if it was around when my Mk3 was being purchased.
Maybe if I'm good SWMBO can be convinced a 3" or 8" fret saw is something the shop needs.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
OK, I know which one you are referring to now. I have had it at my shop for about a year (for testing), but it did not have a name (which is what threw me). I have the 8" version, and what is special about this is not simply the heavier construction to avoid flex (and it really does resist flex better than others), but the swivel blade clamps. They allow for 360 degree rotation.
The role for these saws is fretwork, more commonly as done by jewellers. They would be wasted if all you are doing are dovetails. You are better off with the cheaper lever action saw if the budget/weight is an issue. For dovetails I always recommend the 3" version (lighter and stiffer) since the blade can twist to 45 degrees, which allows for unlimited lengths to be sawn.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 08-03-2017 at 2:30 AM.
But, the red saw frame sure looks nice on the shop wall behind my bench.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Derek's grey one is a prototype Titanium saw, machined from a single plate. NC ended up bringing the multi-piece Ti "birdcage" saw to market instead, when they realized that wasting Ti like that would drive the manufacturing cost and therefore price up to unacceptable levels even for them.
I expect that it will soon become economically feasible to do a one-piece Ti saw with additive manufacturing, though.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 08-03-2017 at 3:31 PM.
The saw is so superior to other fret saws I have, it could be yellow with red polka dots and I would not care.
And if budget/weight are not an issue?
On weight my go-to plane is an 8, so weight isn't an issue but I suppose balance might be.
Budget for the minor price differences are not significant. (though what I really need is for Lee Valley to offer a box of time, to be able to get into the shop more often )
3" mk 3 is $96 mk4 is $99 (130 g vs 190 g)
5" mk 3 us $99 mk4 is $105 (144 g vs 226 g)
8" mk4 is $120 (mk 3 no longer produced but is $110 on Lee Valley website) mk 4 is 278 grams
All Highland Woodworking prices except as noted
John
The Knew Concepts fret saw is the one tool I have purchased that I feel I can positively say that the higher priced tool definitively improved my work. While I may feel like some other more expensive tool purchases have resulted in better work from me, I will readily admit to some of the "if it cost more, it must be better" syndrome creeping in. The Knew saw? stands on its own - I do better work using it vs using either a cheapo coping or fret saw. Caveat - My claim stands for my work only, the rest of you are on your own.
David
Unless you have a special disability,using a normal fret saw (as light as they already are) might strengthen the muscles in your wrist. I used a yew wood fret saw I made with about a 20" reach in the frame to make the marquetry guitar I have posted here. Heavy,yes! But I got used to it. Good exercise for the wrist.
Normally I use,for small work,one of those plain Jane Swiss jeweler's saws with an ugly,but comfortable soft rubber handles,and about a 1/4" bent steel frame. So does my friend Bill Robertson,a famous and very skillful miniature maker. He likes his because it is fully functional,and he can take it apart when traveling to Europe to teach classes. Saves a bit of room in his crowded suitcase.
It would never have occured to me to have a saw lighter than an ordinary German jeweler's saw. My wife,who has been making jewelry for over 25 years,and is 5'2" and has small hands and wrists,uses the Swiss saw I described. In fact,it was introduced to he shop by her.
Last edited by george wilson; 08-05-2017 at 9:50 AM.
George, do you use a fret saw/coping saw to cut out dovetail waste or do you chop? And why?