New bandsaw featherboard product

[Nick Decker]

Some of you are probably familiar with the FeatherPro product by Bow Products, which uses foam "prongs" instead of plastic or wood fingers. While I've never used one, I was wondering about the possibility of stacking three or four of them for resawing. I'm fairly new to bandsaws and resawing in particular, and emailed the company to ask about using their current product that way.

I got a quick response from Keith Bow, along with a video showing their new product in use. I know I can't post a whole video here and don't have a link to it, but there's a screen grab below. The video is 10.5 MB, if you'd like to see it, send me a PM.

He said it would be out this fall, $79.95. The screen grab shows it with a 6-inch "blade". There will also be a "riser" extension for a 10-incher.

Nick

BS-featherboard.jpg

[Nick Decker]

I now have a link to the video of the prototype product. Is it permitted to post that here?

[John K Jordan]

I now have a link to the video of the prototype product. Is it permitted to post that here?

I think it's allowed unless you are promoting the project for commercial or personal benefit, like is your good friend Mr Bow developing this and you want to help him generate sales? If you think it may be of general interest or are interested in comments about it, pro or con, maybe post it - a forum moderator will remove and explain if he decides it violates the TOS.

Terms of Service here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/terms.php

And a excerpt about links by the forum boss:
This is the section of our TOS that covers external links:

3. External Linking
Links to other websites are allowed in posts. In fact, they are encouraged. However, links for the sole purpose of marketing, generating traffic to a site, or any other commercial advertisement deemed to solicit commercial benefit are not allowed. Links to other public or private forums are not allowed. Links should be submitted as references, for the sole purpose of generating or supporting discussions on SawMill Creek.


I think that a link to the video would be interesting and useful to generate discussion. For example, it's been a long time since I made featherboards but I've been thinking about making one for my bandsaw. Looking at designs might help me design my own. I'm curious how they might use foam and how it will hold up. I've always made them with wood fingers but I was thinking of trying HDPE plastic fingers this time since I have a good supply.

BTW, have you seen the Magswitch clamps? https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-MAG.../dp/B003FWERRC
I bought some to use to hold a featherboard to the cast iron table.

JKJ

[Nick Decker]

John,

First, I don't know Mr. Bow and have no connection to his company, other than emailing a question to the company this morning.

While they do make featherboards like the ones for table saws and router tables, I was more specifically interested in one for resawing, ie., a tall one. Turns out they have one coming out for that very purpose. I don't know what it's made of, other than some kind of semi-flexible rubber.

I'm new to resawing, but it seems to me that being able to apply constant, even pressure throughout the cut is a good thing. And it frees up one of my hands, which I never seem to have enough of.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sw7oh9o1r5...OTYPE.mov?dl=0

Oh, and yes, I've seen the Magswitch things, which are fine I'm sure, just not tall enough.

[Lee Schierer]

Interesting tool. It looks easy to use and appears to be effective. Obviously his saw was well tuned.

[John K Jordan]

I'm new to resawing, but it seems to me that being able to apply constant, even pressure throughout the cut is a good thing. And it frees up one of my hands, which I never seem to have enough of.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sw7oh9o1r5...OTYPE.mov?dl=0
Oh, and yes, I've seen the Magswitch things, which are fine I'm sure, just not tall enough.

Thanks. The design looks interesting. Some impressions and comments: The scale idea is nice but I wouldn't make a square with that short a base. The cam in the miter slot seems innovative. The flexible wedge seems unique. Adding the riser seems it might invite play, I'd rather have several sizes, maybe 2, 4, 6". When he applied the lock and said "now the whole tool is tight" I saw a lot of play. Maybe that's not a problem with pressure from a flexible fingerboard but it could be made tighter with a wider base and a different locking mechanism - the expanding lock he uses grips the slot only at the rear. I might consider a more traditional lock like a thumbscrew tightening on a gib from the side. As for freeing up the hands, I see he lost the cut by not supporting the board when it went past the end of the pressure wedge.

The tall pressure device I am considering making for my bandsaw is similar but with a much wider base, probably two of the Magswitch devices mounted in the base, and a traditional feathered pressure board. (The base thickness would be sized to fit the Magswitch height.) I like the instant adjustability of the magnets - just position and turn. It would be interesting to try a high pressure board and see if it actually helps with resawing - I usually just use a high fence and hold the board by hand.

I also plan to make one just 1" high more like a traditional featherboard. I probably wouldn't use it much since I normally don't have any problem holding a piece against the fence with either my right hand or a push stick. Since kickback is not an issue for bandsaws (unlike table saws) the pressure device does not have to be a featherboard that prevents the board from backing up but could be something like a spring-loaded roller.

JKJ

[John TenEyck]

I thought I needed a tall feather board for slicing veneer. Then a friend gave me a 1/2" high plastic featherboard he had designed for his bandsaw. He claimed that as long as the bottom of the board is held against the fence, you can manage the rest yourself. He was right. As long as the fence is parallel to the blade and both are 90° with the table, and your stock is square where it meets the table and fence, it's not hard to keep it pressed against the fence to give nice uniform slices of veneer. No argument that a taller feather board would be even better, but it's not a necessity.

John

[Nick Decker]

Some good thoughts, John (Jordan). I wouldn't say I saw a lot of play once he locked it, but I'd need to lay hands on one to see if it was enough to cause a problem. For me, the attraction is not having to use my hands or "leapfrog" the push blocks to keep the board against the fence. Every time I have to reposition my body or switch blocks, it causes an inconsistency or pause in the cut. With the featherboard doing the holding, all I have to do is get the cut started, then try to maintain a steady feed.

[Chris Fournier]

I'd never re-saw against a fence like that in the picture above. Single point fence is the way to go for re-sawing and I never use a feather board for this operation. I have cut plenty of veneer this way.

[Bruce Wrenn]

My feather board for BS is a piece of plywood with a kerf sawn in it, into which I glued some plastic laminate (Formica, Wilsonart, etc.) It's attached to another piece of ply (base) which is clamped to the table.

[John Lanciani]

I'd never re-saw against a fence like that in the picture above. Single point fence is the way to go for re-sawing and I never use a feather board for this operation. I have cut plenty of veneer this way.

Well I guess that's why there's more than one way to skin a cat. I have cut hundreds and hundreds of sq.ft. of veneer and I would never, ever, consider for a second using a single point fence to cut veneer. I've posted my setup and results in the past but the short version is that I cut 1/16" veneer up to 16" wide and go directly from saw to vacuum bag using a long tall fence and a fairly elaborate hold in (featherboard like) jig.

[Nick Decker]

Well I guess that's why there's more than one way to skin a cat. I have cut hundreds and hundreds of sq.ft. of veneer and I would never, ever, consider for a second using a single point fence to cut veneer. I've posted my setup and results in the past but the short version is that I cut 1/16" veneer up to 16" wide and go directly from saw to vacuum bag using a long tall fence and a fairly elaborate hold in (featherboard like) jig.

John L,

I came across your "featherboard" device in an earlier search. I remain in awe.

Nick

[John K Jordan]

John L,

I came across your "featherboard" device in an earlier search. I remain in awe.

Nick

I remember at least one post about that little "featherboard" (!) I think that's where I got the idea to use spring-loaded rollers instead of a sliding friction pressure from a traditional featherboard at the bandsaw (since kickback is not an issue). I thought there was a thread with it as a topic but this is all I found just now:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...54#post1838654

Is there more?

JKJ

[Sam Murdoch]

Very smart design - operates simply and effectively.

[Nick Decker]

Wanted to pass along that I did make Keith Bow, the manufacturer, aware of this thread, and that he's happy to get feedback on the product. He said that if interested members here want to email him, he'll put them on a list to have access to buy the product before it's available in stores. They have MAP pricing, so no price break, but you would be contacted with a "special offer." Don't know what that might be, but there it is. His email is Sales@Bow-products.com.