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Thread: Future new lathe purchase

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
    Posts
    547

    Future new lathe purchase

    Gents,

    My wife is in the process of selling her business and has promised me a couple of shop upgrades for the work I've put into it over the last several years. After much pondering I've decided to focus my shop time more on round wood than flat. I enjoy both, but my heart is really into the art of turning. I have really thought about upgrading my old Delta 12x48 to a new Grizzly G0766 so I can turn the occasional giant piece, but the more I think about it the more I think I don't really need a lathe that big ALL the time and would be plenty happy with an outboard attachment on a smaller lathe. Y'all mind pointing me toward a few different models that might suit me?

    - budget is probably around $3k for machine and accessories.
    - Right now this is just a hobby that pays for itself when I want it to. In 10-15 years maybe it will be more than that and maybe not. I tend to
    donate or gift most of my work unless I need to fund a new tool or supplies.
    - I insist on a quality machine, but I can diagnose, fix and maintain just about anything. I just don't want to be working on it all the time.
    - shaft size doesn't matter, but with a 1"x8tpi I wouldn't have to re-buy chucks and faceplates
    - shop is on a slab and I won't need the lathe to be mobile.
    - I have plenty of space. Current lathe is against the wall, but the new one will be perpendicular to the wall and far enough away from it that I can
    work from any side.
    - I'm 6'2"
    - variable speed is a must; reeves, knobs or buttons, I don't care. I just don't want to dork with belts to change speed. Combination of variable
    speed and belt changes for speed range changes would be okay.
    - must have outboard turning capability
    - swing-away tailstock a big plus
    - prefer 18" or bigger. I've turned a few sub-16" platters in the gap on my current lathe and know that I sometimes need them a little bigger.
    - sliding headstock a must. Pivoting headstock might be nice, but not a deal-breaker.
    - 220v is okay.
    - digital RPM readout would be nice.
    - Don't want to buy used unless a stellar deal comes up for something local. I want to break it in myself
    - I turn some bowls, but prefer hollow forms. I intend to get into deep hollowing so I can do larger pieces. I rarely do spindles.


    Thanks y'all!

  2. #2
    18" swing is going to put you in the upper tier of lathes, most all of which will have an 8tpi x 1.25" spindle, so you may need to start by calculating the cost of the switch over and deduct that from your overall budget.

    Left click my name for homepage link.

  3. #3
    Since you indicated 220 volt that means you will be getting a motor of 2hp or larger. These size motors have the 8tpi x 1.25". I would stay away from a reeves models as they wear belts quickly and don't have the capacity to slow down enough for large chunks of wood. I know you indicated 18", but the Jet 1642 EVS 2 hp model is a very good machine. From what others have said, some of the Grizzly machines are very good. My first lathe was a Grizzly GO632. It was early in their move to make lathes and was not very happy with it--it had the reeves drive and the headstock and tailstock did not match up. It is my understanding, based on other Creekers, that the GO733, GO766, and the GO800 have come a long way since I owned mine and are really good machines. I'm sure you can do a search on the site for more info or one of the owners of these machines will chime in. Good luck.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    1,647
    As John said, most lathes in the class that you are looking for use a 1-1/4x8 spindle thread. But you can buy an adapter that goes from the lathe to your 1" x 8 chuck. They start at ~$10 and probably go up to 30 or 40. My $10 one works fine. It adds about 1-1/2 " in length. While some may view that as a source of runout I haven't seen that to be a problem But the added length does help me work more easily on the chuck side of the wood.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Forestville, CA
    Posts
    107
    What kind of hollowing system needs to be considered. If articulated arm (which I recommend, you can build your own), bed length must be long. I need an 18" extension for my PM3520b. You need length for faceplate, screws, hollowform, boring bar when extracted (and extra length for long bars to reduce leverage disadvantage), collapsed articulated arm including socket piece, tailstock mount, and taistock. You can cheat this a little by moving the tailstock at the bottom of deep hollowforms when using your longest bar, and putting the tailstock halfway off the end.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Graceville Florida
    Posts
    16
    Check out the green monster group on this page it has a lot of info on grizzly lathes.( Community-Groups-Grizzly Green Monster Group) I think G0766 is the best lathe for the money.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
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    12,298
    A lathe with a sliding headstock like the Jet 1642 and PM 3520 can accommodate larger pieces by sliding the headstock down to the far end. I have both and both are capable. Sliding the headstock to the end is good for hollowing too. If you get the bed extension an alternate mounting location is low on the legs to support the banjo, and it comes with a tool post extension. I don't remember for sure but I think it will let you swing 36 or 38".

    What I can say about the PM is the extra mass is helpful. I mostly turn small and often tiny things but the 20" capacity of the PM is helpful when I need it. Way more power than I will probably ever need, too. I read recently that the new 3520b is on sale, probably to move them before the new 3520c is released. I bought a used one in excellent condition for within your budget and it came with the bed extension.

    Based on discussions I've had with friends, "just say NO" to Reeves drives. The VFD based speed control is far superior and less problematic.

    JKJ

  8. #8
    The 1 1/4 by 8tpi is a mechanical advantage for turning larger pieces. Most chucks have inserts so you just remove the insert and replace. Not too big of an investment. Getting new face plates, well if you buy new, they usually come with one. I never use a face plate for bowls any more, just drill the correct size recess with a forstner bit and expand into that. You may need a bigger chuck.....

    robo hippy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    You did not mention the type of sharpening system and tools that you have currently. Turning larger pieces will require having some larger diameter bowl gouges ( 5/8" minimum) and a good sharpening system. Larger tool rests and even the J shape are needed for larger pieces also. I have the 3520B and keep telling myself that one day I am going to turn off the bed (can turn about 34" or so) but have not found the wood or nerve to do it and age is about to say don't need to go there. Finding a good used 3520B may get easier with the 3520C coming out and it is a good machine. I have the bed extension and no tilt-away and it seldom is a problem. I remove the tailstock only when using my hollowing system which is seldom. I do use the 1-1/4x1 adapters for some chucks and faceplates to allow using some on my Comet Midi 1" and have the bushing to allow using the 1-1/4 on the Comet also. It looked strange having a Stronghold chuck with #4 jaws in a recess on a 11.5"D plate on the 12"midi. I would think that you might consider about 2:1 split on you money, lathe:tools and upgrade as a minimum for extras, and then plan for addition costs in time as you progress. Turning bowls is less expensive than turning deep hollow forms for example and the hollowing tools could definitely be a future expense.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    cleveland,tn.
    Posts
    385
    If you got 3 grand to spend, a griz G0766 would let you buy a lot of extras. I believe that all the bugs are worked out now. I have a early one I think it was # thirty in the run. Once I got the small problems out of the way it has been more than expected.

  11. #11
    I also have the grizzly G0766 and love it for the price you can not beat it. had mine for about 2 year now and turn on It about 2 or 3 times a week. with no problems and you are close to Springfield and if you have a truck you can save delivery by pick it up at the warehouse

  12. Another owner of a Grizzly G0766 here, and one with a lot of turning sessions on 3520b models over a few years. In 2015, I decided I was going to get another lathe, and had the ability to purchase a new PM 3520b, but after having owned an 18/47 model Grizzly G0698, and having turned a good bit on some different 3520b's, I decided to go with the G0766 Grizzly. It has more swing, more horsepower, and a longer bed than the 3520b. Folks who think that the upper end Grizzly's are not as good are mistaken!

    My 0766 has been put through its paces, and I have not had any issues with pretty heavy usage over these last two years. Every time I turn, my joy gets renewed that I have a fine performing, powerful lathe with the same basic features of a 3520b at less than half the price. I am willing to do my own service, and that is where the difference comes in......PM will send out a service tech guy, but from what I have read on the forums, they don't always know precisely what they are doing, and have to come back, at times. Grizzly will give you full tech and parts support, for the life of the machine, and walk you through any repair over the phone, send you emails with repair pics and instructions, and any other type help you need, and if they cannot fix it under warranty, they will replace it.

    I am not putting PM down, by any means, as I would recommend a 3520b any time, but I would also recommend a G0766 anytime, as it gives performance on par with a 3520b. Powermatic has the name as it relates to Asian made units.........the G0766, G0733 and the G0800 are also fine machines! The G0800 and the PM 3520b, 4224b are all made by the Harvey Industries Company in China, and have Taiwanese motor/inverter combos on them, and are cousins in the manufacturing process.

    If you want the name, go for the PM 3520b, but you would not be sacrificing performance with the G0766. A side benefit is that the extra $1800 in your pocket can certainly help acquire many accessories and tools!
    Last edited by Roger Chandler; 08-07-2017 at 7:37 AM.
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
    Posts
    547
    Thanks for the responses guys! I've drooled over the G0766 a few times over the last couple years and as best I can tell it fits exactly what I'm looking for. Just wanted to see if there was something better I've overlooked.

    I don't know for sure yet which hollowing system I'll go with. They all seem to have ups and downs, but I've never used any of them personally. Hopefully in the next year or so I'll have some opportunities to try a couple. May be another couple of years before I'm ready to buy.

    I've only got a couple of chucks - a cheap one without an insert that I'll probably let go with the lathe and a Nova G3 with insert, but it may be a little small for the G0766. I've got 4-5 faceplates of different sizes. Won't hurt me much to change shaft sizes.

    I have a Rikon SS grinder with the OEM wheels. I wanted to get some use from them and learn how to sharpen well before replacing with something better. I will probably upgrade to Norton wheels soon and eventually may go with CBN.

    My tools should be fine. I have a good selection of Thompson gouges and a couple of their scrapers, but I will eventually invest in a few bigger tools. I'll probably send my Benjamin's Best down the road with the lathe. They're not bad, but since I've started using Thompson tools my expectations are a bit higher.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Ramsey View Post
    ..
    I've only got a couple of chucks - a cheap one without an insert that I'll probably let go with the lathe ...
    If you have the space you might consider keeping the second lathe (and the chuck). I keep at least two in the shop and the second is really useful when others come to learn or play. Also, if I have something set up on the primary lathe it is nice sometimes to leave it alone and use the second lathe, sometimes for things like making jam chucks and such.

    Also, if there is ever a problem with the first lathe, you can keep playing. I did this once when a VFD died on one of my Jet 1642s.

    These two boys are learning the skew and making beads and coves with a spindle gouge. This is the turning "alcove" in my shop, built specifically so I can position the lathes with walls behind them since I like to have everything within arm's reach. A lathe with a sliding head positioned against a short wall like the one on the right can easily be used outboard for larger swing.

    WV_boys_IMG_20170319_154641_356.jpg

    As for chucks, I've never found one too small for even my largest lathe. I stuck with Nova chucks, from the G3 to the Titan, but mostly Supernova/Supernova2. I may not use the G3 chucks on the biggest work but I certainly use them on medium and smaller work (which I prefer). But it might be different if you intend to only turn large.

    JKJ

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
    Posts
    547
    John,

    I really like your setup. I wouldn't mind having 2 lathes, but this one takes up too much real estate to be a spare. Plus the shaft has some slight runout and the tailstock takes some patience to get lined up just right as the ears that center it on the ways are worn some. No complaints tho - my wife's cousin tuned it up a bit and gave it and a couple tools to me when he upgraded about 3-4 years ago. I instantly fell in love with the sport and fully intend to find it and some starter tools a new home with another new turner when I upgrade.

    Question for you though - do you ever find a need to be on the back side of the lathe? I've heard/read that it is ideal to have access to all sides of the lathe. Mine is against the wall and I sometimes have to pull the end of the lathe out to keep my tools from bumping the wall. Sometimes I think it might be handy to be able to stand behind the lathe, like when cutting the upper part of the wall inside of a calabash-style bowl. I like my lathe where it is and my tools are all within reach without moving or bending, but I would prefer to have better access to the tail end at least. With a sliding headstock and outboard rig that could be handy for bigger bowls.

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