1980 Powermatic Table Saw Model 66 fence

[Art Knoflick]

Don't know if there is anyone around that can answer this but I thought I would try. I have refurbished my old 1980 saw and fence (round rails and cast iron fence), but have an alignment issue with the fence. Turning the fine tune knob, the front of the fence moves first and then the back lags behind, causing at least 1/8" difference. The two set screws in the fence don't correct this. I do notice that the cast iron back end of the fence sits lightly on the back rail so I fine sanded and waxed that but still the back end lags behind the front. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Art Knoflick

[Matt Day]

Simple check - is the fence flat? And square to the table?

[Dave Cav]

Did you take the fence completely apart and check the rear locking mechanism to make sure it is working correctly and unlocking all the way? The old Powermatic jetlock-type fences were a good solid design, much more metal in them than the Delta version, but most people have long since replaced them with a Biesmeyer (or other) fence as they are generally more simple to keep adjusted.

[Marc Jeske]

Art, you may know full well about this, but I wanted to make sure...

Certainly you may be able to get by after tuning up your existing fence, but I don't think you'll ever get away from the two front and back measurement checks every time you move fence.

As Dave mentioned, buying the Biesemeyer aftermarket setup is easy to install and a dream to use.

Another benefit would be wider blade to fence capacity, depending on size new fence chosen... up to about 52"... If you cut sheet goods anyway.

If you're a hobbyist, have time, and cutting smaller stuff, just clean up your fence and you should be fine.

Last thing - This company has a lot of older PM parts, and are good people.
Marc

http://www.redmondmachinery.com/old-powermatic-parts-1/

[Mike Schuch]

I have a 60's Powermatic 65 with the same fence. I always measured the front and back. Then I bought a used Vega fence and no longer have to measure the front and back. Later I got a powermatic 71 that came with the heavy duty Biesemeyer fence. To me Vega and Biesemeyer fences are about the same in use. I use the Vega much more often because it is on my smaller saw that I use much more often.

[Marc Jeske]

If I may... Restate and simplify the OP question to..

My interpretation- "Is it normal for the rear to lag behind the front when I turn the knob.. ?

My answer is- Yes, it is normal.

And then, having to measure twice for each fence width re setting.

That fact then, created the need for Biesemeyer and others that rely ONLY on the front rail.

Only detail that remains is.. Does the "lag" get corrected upon clamping the fence?

My experience says "No", still need to set parallel.

So I say, it should be expected.

Please correct me if I have had odd experience.

Marc

[Art Knoflick]

Hi all,
Thanks for all your comments ... I really appreciate all the varied perspectives.

When I refurbished the saw, I did take the fence completely apart to clean up all the corrosion. Both front and back locking knobs work as then originally did.

For those not quite familiar with this old style fence, there are two set screws on the front part of the fence that control overall alignment. I would normally set these so that the back of the fence is slightly further from the blade then the front (1/32") and then lock these set screws down. I do remember the fence always moving in unison, but after 20+ years of storage and refurbishment, something is out of wack!

I have sprayed a light coat of lithium grease on the back rail and this helps a bit, so I am focusing on how the fence sits on the back rail, seeing if I can further reduce sliding friction.

And yes, it is probably best to update to a new fence as suggested, I am just not ready to give up on the problem solving process ... though I know that when I am ready to start another big project, push may come to shove.

Again, thank you all.

Art Knofick

[Mike Schuch]

When I used my old powermatic fence I seriously considered buying a second one, sans rails, and butt it against my existing fence attaching the two fences with a panel so the fence would always be square. I like my T square fences... but I do really miss the rear lock on my old powermatic fence. I also looked at adding a linear bearing on the front rail to serve the same function of adding another contact point to always keep the fence square. Just a thought.

Most of the time if I locked the front of the fence first giving the front lock a bit of an extra push to lift the rear of the fence a touch the fence would almost always lock in square... but that 1 in 10 times it wouldn't caused problems and even safety issues requiring me to always measure front and back.

[Tom M King]

By "two set screws" are you talking about the two that you can see on top of the fence, or the two that you see once you take the cap off the fence by taking out the two that you can see? The fence should not do what you are describing. Once you take the cap off, it should be pretty obvious what you need to do. There are two screws under there that allow you to adjust the fence for square, and lock the fence in position relative to the front rail bracket.

I have a 62, that I bought new in 1974, with the same type of fence that you have, I believe, but I'm not sure what changes they made by 1980.

It's actually a fine fence, once adjusted. The only problem is that with the rear clamp, an outfeed table has to have a gap for it. I still find myself reaching for the fine adjustment knob when using the Biesmeyer on my Unisaw.

[Don Jarvie]

Does the manual have any set up directions? It may walk you through the fine tuning.