Veneering help

[Scott Krick]

I'm making 1/4" (11"X19") panels for a bed. I'm planning on veneering Birdseye maple veneer to either MDF or plywood. I'm aware of the general guidelines that you must veneer both sides of the panel. Is that true also if I veneer on plywood? Best to use contact cement, PVA, or other glue? Appreciate any suggestions since in spite of considerable woodworking experience, this is my first go at veneering.

[Matt Day]

Joe woodworker had good information and covers all of this. If I'm not mistaken, you should veneer both sides no matter what to balance the panel - think about all that glue (water) on one side and not the other.
Veneersupplies sells veneer specific glue tinted to the wood (light, medium, dark).

Do you have a vacuum press or are you using clamps?

[Jim Morgan]

If you don't want your panels to warp, it is best to veneer them on both sides. The balance veneer doesn't need to be bird's eye, or even maple, but the grain should be oriented in the same direction as the face veneer.

[Gene Takae]

I've glued up panels larger than 11x19 using the following technique. Apply a thin layer of yellow glue (thin but full coverage works best)to both the substrate and veneer and let them dry. The veneer will have the tendency to curl but don't panic -it will still work. Place the veneer on the ply (glue to glue of course) and using a household iron (set to cotton and steam off) begin ironing the veneer to the ply from the center out using moderately heavy pressure. Keep the iron moving and if necessary use a paper bag or craft paper to protect the veneer.

Important tips :DO NOT USE THE IRON THAT IS USED FOR THE CLOTHES IN YOUR HOME. You can get a used one (travel iron is good) for $5.00 or less. Also don't cut the veneer to the exact size-cut it no less than 1" larger in both directions then trim flush after ironing. Also, using this technique I haven't found the need to apply a backer veneer but that is my personal experience and yours may differ. BTW it is possible to re-heat the veneer and move it if you make an error but it is a slow and iffy process so ensure the you have it positioned properly before you start ironing the whole thing.

[Joel Wesseling]

I do a fair amount of flat panel veneering. I did a full kitchen job with over 30 doors and end gables using 3/4 particle board for doors, and 1/2" board for end gables.
I use Better Bond glue and roller applicator from Joe Woodworker.

Don't use 1/4" sheet material. it is to thin and can warp a little even with a balancing veneer.
Use 3/8 or 1/2 inch to be certain that it will stay flat.

11"x16" panels are not large. if you have clamps it should not be difficult to obtain excellent results when following the proper steps.
Cut 2 1/2" panels about 12X18, these are your platens. Raise bottom platen on 2 boards to raise it so clamps will fit under. lay one veneer on bottom platen. Roll glue
one side of panel and lay it on bottom veneer. Roll glue on top of panel and lay second veneer on top and place the second platen over veneer. Clamp from center outward. 6 clamps are needed for this size. edit:The glue can bleed through so add wax paper between the veneer and platen although I've experienced very little bleed through with birdseye maple.

With panels, veneering both sides at once is important as warping can start fairly quickly.

The veneer can move sideways with the wet glue and the clamps rotational force. Make sure the clamps top and bottom pads are evenly placed to prevent lateral movement.

Practice first.

[Scott Krick]

Thanks so much to all for taking the time to respond to this post! I appreciate the advice , tips, and suggestions!

[Tom Bain]

Definitely veneer both sides, but you can use a cheaper, less attractive veneer on the side that won't be seen.

[Steve Demuth]

Don't use 1/4" sheet material. it is to thin and can warp a little even with a balancing veneer.
Use 3/8 or 1/2 inch to be certain that it will stay flat.

When I want thin panels (which is often), I use mdf that is as thin as 3/16” inch as the core, but I do two layers of laminate on each side. First layer is cheap (I often use red oak), perpendicular to the show face. Second layer has the “good” show veneer on one side, and a balance veneer on the other.

You can get dead flat thin veneered panels that way that are very stiff, almost structural.