New Newb getting started

[Larry Foster]

Hi!
I hope I'm in the right place.
I didn't see a place for intros


Looks pretty cool here with a lot of good people and info.
Forgive the long-winded intro.
I'm in the preliminary stages of setting up a shop in onebay of -my old "garage" which was never used for cars.
It was always used for my dad's tractor and various other pieces of equipment and junk
Right now, I'm working on replacing a section of the brickfoundation wall that is pushed.
There is a dirt floor.
I'm thinking that, instead of concrete, I would put downtreated 2X4 down and cover with 3/4" plywood.
The shop floor areais @9'X14' not including an area that includes two 5' benches in the front ofthe building.
I'm looking for organization because everything is a bigmess.
I have (mostly) lower end tools because I'm starting from ashoestring.
I don't have a lathe or planer but do have many other of themain shop power tools.
My preliminary plans are to:
Fix the wall
Put some kind of level floor
Make a decision on whether to try to put heat. I have an oldWarm Morning pot belly wood/coal stove
Make some cabinets to fit under my one bench and a shelfunder the other.
Table saw wing extension and, maybe, try to make a Biesemyerstyle fence.
Once I get somewhat set up, I'd like to make a new kitchensink base and a computer desk for my wife.
After that, who knows?
Thanks for allowing me to be here and if there are anysuggestions, I'd appreciate any.

[Wayne Lomman]

Larry, welcome to the forum. Your plans are good, making the best of your budget. I think your idea to frame up and lay a ply floor are good. I would recommend placing the joists at 450 centres minimum simply because a workshop for potentially gets a bit more abuse than a house floor. The timber floor will be more comfortable to work on long term. Lay plastic moisture barrier on the existing earth floor before framing so that sub floor moisture is never a problem. Cheers

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for the tips, Wayne.
I have enough plastic to barrier to cover 20 of these shops but may not have thought of using it

[Michael Weber]

Biggly welcomes from Arkansas Larry. I've been a member for years if not a big contributor and can tell you there is not a better online source of help than right here.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for the welcome, Michael.

I've been hanging around for a week or two getting the lay of the land

Checked out couple other forums and this on is the most active

[Rick Potter]

Welcome Larry,

One suggestion. You might consider using two layers (offset) of 3/4" ply. Many stationary tools are too heavy for just 3/4. An alternate would be to use 1 1/4" T&G plywood flooring.

In either case, put your 'floor joists' at 12" OC, rather than 16", for a nice solid floor.

It sounds like you will end up with a nice shop there.

PS: Sheet the walls with cheap OSB, and shoot everything white while it is empty. It will really help with lighting.

[Larry Foster]

Good tips, Rick.
Thanks.
I may not be able to do the walls.
I have them petty well covered with pegboard, bolt bins and sundry other stuff.
But, it could use a brightening up

[Larry Foster]

Just an update.
Things are progressing, albeit at a snail's pace.

I had the collapsed brick wall excavated and removed.

After consideration, I decided to pour pier footers and use 6X6 pressure treated lumber posts @ 4' OC.
The bricks came out in sections and I never saw mortar that hard before.
I wanted to smash the bricks to use as backfill and, also, get rid of them.

They wouldn't break apart.

A 16# sledge just bounced off.

Ended up getting a Harbor Freight Rotary Hammer.
That worked slick. Just did that yesterday


Need to get the backfill done.
Neighbor has a garden tractor with a front loader but can't get hold of him.

Tight spot so that would be good.
Better than all that shoveling.

Once the backfill is done, I can make fairly quick progress on the floor and then start putting the shop together.

Looking to do something to fire rate the area where I'm putting the old stove to reduce clearances and save a little space.
5/8" fire rated drywall would work but open to alternatives

[Don Jarvie]

Insulate the walls and ceiling and weather strip the doors. You want to hold the heat. Add thick plastic over the dirt before you set the floor. Keeps the moisture at bay. Also insulate the floor before you cover it.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for the suggestions, Don.

Insulating will be hard.
This is a pretty rough structure.
It can't be made tight.
Economically

The plastic is a definite