Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 51

Thread: Table saw Mods?

  1. #1

    Table saw Mods?

    Trying to decide if it's worth the bother to try and modifymy saw or buy another.
    Money is a consideration.
    I have a Clarke 10".
    Max rip capacity is 12"
    I've been looking at a lot of videos on YouTube aboutextension wings and better fences.
    The way the saw is constructed, it would be difficult to put a fence with a wider capacity because thefront track is beveled and can't be removed
    I stopped at Lowes today to have a look around.
    Saw a Kobalt for $279, Hitachi for $479 and a Dewalt for$579 and a Delta for $599
    The Delta's pretty nice and the only one that has aBiesemeyer type fence.
    But, it may be over my budget.
    Actually, I liked the Kobalt.
    One problem, being a noob, is I don't know that I don't knowwhat I may want to do.
    I will always be just a hobbyist.
    At 67 I'm not looking to launch a new career.
    My first project would be to build some shop cabinets.
    My wife has been bugging me for some kind of computer desk


    Then a new kitchen sink cabinet (non-standard size) and Ihave a rental that could use some kitchen cabinets.

    Other than that, it would be for whatever urge hits me.

    Thanks in advance for any input


  2. #2
    I was in a similar situation a few years back and moved up from a little bench top saw to a used Delta Contractor saw with a 52" Biesemeyer. Watch Craig's List and your local papers. I paid $400 for mine.

  3. #3
    Thanks for that tip.
    That would have been a nice find

    Just checked and found new in box Delta for $300

    May see about it
    Last edited by Larry Foster; 08-12-2017 at 10:50 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Metro Atlanta
    Posts
    119
    I sold my big table saw and now have a retool track saw and a small Bosch table saw. I bought the dealt you mention, but took it back because none of the tables were as flat as my Bosch. I use an incra miter gauge and it works nice. I now have a smaller shop in basement

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,627
    I would skip the smaller lightweight plastic saws. They have a very limited landing zone in front of the blade, making it more difficult to get the board settled before contacting the blade. The full size saws also tend to have belt driven induction motors that are much quieter, more reliable, and have more torque. The larger saws also sport a bunch more mass making them more stable. Not to be overlooked is the fact that the full size saws are more accepting of standard accessories, and are easier to upgrade features on...like a fence, wings, miter gauge, add a router table, etc....there's just a ton more growth potentil and generally better performance from a stationary saw.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  6. #6
    Scott, could you be more specific in what you mean by a "full size saw, please?
    I was looking around and saw a Delta 36-6022 for $429 then a 36-725 for $599.
    That one has a Besemeyer type fence.
    Is that important?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    4,550
    For what you said you want to build I think you need a TS with at least 24" rip capacity. Some of the portables will do that, but a contractor saw, or better, is much nicer to use if this is going to be your only TS. (I have 3.) I make a lot of large cabinets. I have a 52" rip fence, but admit I rarely use it for anything beyond 30" or so. The fence spans two TS's bolted side by side so that's why I needed the long fence. If I had only one saw a 36" fence would be plenty.

    But the saw and fence are only part of the equation to working easily and safely. You have to have some place for the workpiece to land as it exists the saw. I have a bench located as a landing zone for lumber and panels coming off the table saw, and I use a roller stand or two on the infeed side when needed. If you don't have the space then a tracksaw may better fit your needs. Only you know the right direction that will best fit your needs.

    John

  8. #8
    Thanks for that info, John.

    All the saws that I mentioned above have a 30-32" rip capacity.
    In the beginning, I would use roller stands for outfeed

  9. #9
    I see a lot of stuff on Biesemyer fences.
    How important are these and what makes this kind of fence special?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    98
    Before the Biesemeyer fence came along in the 70's fences on small cabinet saws were for the most part crappy. They relied on the fence locking on the front and back tubular bars which didn't always align well. The Biesemeyer was an aftermarket fence that was very rigid and locked on the front rail. They also had the measuring tapes on them for easy and more accurate locating rather than measurements stamped in the guide bars of the day. They were popular and i guess when the patents ran out they became widely copied. There are other ways to make good fences so you can't automatically rule them out.

  11. #11
    Thanks for that info, Peter.
    There's a ton of stuff on YouTube about making fences, both wood and metal.

    Is it necessary?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    98
    You are welcome. I wasn't implying that you make a fence, just that if there isn't a Biesemeyer style on it don't automatically rule it out. It has to be stiff so it doesn't deflect, maintain its setting in relationship (squareness parallelism) to the blade and move feely so you don't have to bang it around. I also think it should be made such that it is easy to clamp a board to it to act as a short ripping fence, like those that come on European saws, and to be able to clamp sacrificial wood to for partially buried dado blades and angled blades for chamfers or bevels.

  13. #13
    I'll get booted off the board because I'm too dumb to qualify with all my dumb questions

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    98
    Gottastart somewhere. Better a "dumb" question or two than lob off a few fingers. Any night schools around that teach basic woodworking?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    84
    If you're wanting to work mostly with sheet goods for now, grab a circular saw and make yourself a "track." Unless you're a perfectionist or professional, you can make some decent stuff with a "homemade" track saw if you take your time. Do a google search. Lot's of info out there.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •