Table saw Mods?

[Ray Newman]

Find and read the on-line manuals and reviews for the saws you are contemplating. Make sure that the saws have a way of adjusting the miter gauge slots to be parallel to the blade. If the blade and miter gauge slots are not parallel, the saw will not cut true. Awhile back there was thread over on one the router forums about this and the saw purchased had no way of aligning the slots to the blade and was not cutting true.

Also, the industry standard for a miter gauge slot is 3/8x3/4". Some saws have a different sized slot and finding and using accessories such as feather boards, tennon jig, upgrade miter gauge etc. difficult

[Frederick Skelly]

I'll get booted off the board because I'm too dumb to qualify with all my dumb questions

Nope. Won't happen Larry. Just keep asking - it's a pleasure to help you learn and we're glad you're here.
Fred

[andy bessette]

Sell the Clarke and pickup a used Unisaw or Powermatic.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Peter, Biesemeyer's patent didn't run out. He rescinded it upon advice of attorneys. But no one caught it and continued to buy fences from Biesemeyer.

[Peter Christensen]

Peter, Biesemeyer's patent didn't run out. He rescinded it upon advice of attorneys. But no one caught it and continued to buy fences from Biesemeyer.

Well there you go. I didn't know that. A good fence all the same,,,,,,,,,,,,or it wouldn't be copied by so many.

[Larry Foster]

Any night schools around that teach basic woodworking?

The local vo-tech has a carpentry curriculum but that's construction based.

I am familiar with power tools, but, hand tools.

In my younger days, I built a few houses but those are different skills.
I don't believe we ever had a table saw on the job.
Possibly, a radial arm saw.

I'm not sure where I want to go with this so I'm keeping my options open., Thomas.

That's why I'm fussing so much over a table saw.
It seems that one can do so many things with a decent one

If you're wanting to work mostly with sheet goods for now,

[Larry Foster]

Thank you for your continued patience.

I've been reading reviews until I think I'm going cross-eyed.

Started watching Craigslist after it was suggested.

Preliminarily, I'm considering 4 saws.
The Kobalt KT 1015 and 3 Deltas.

The Delta 36-6022, 36-6020 and 36-725 which is about the top of my budget.
Still trying to figure the difference in those first two.

Couple things I saw in the Delta reviews were motor problems and that they don't take non-proprietary blades.

Although I don't need the saw yet, I'm getting anxious.
The money seems to be burning a hole in my pocket

[Frankie Hunt]

Preliminarily, I'm considering 4 saws.

The Kobalt KT 1015 and 3 Deltas.

The Delta 36-6022, 36-6020 and 36-725 which is about the top of my budget.

Of those choices the 36-725 DELTA 10" Contractor Saw is by far the best choice for a home shop. If you do not need portability (putting the saw in your truck to take to different job sites) then its best to avoid the portable saws. The contractors saw can be mobile inside your shop area, or portable somewhat with a truck.

The Contractors saw will have: ample top area, standard miter gauge slots, an induction motor that is more powerful and quieter, more stability because of size/weight etc....

That particular saw has a nice fence. If you want new, that saw would be a great choice.

A used saw can be a good deal, but it can also as easily be a bad deal! A new saw will not have been abused before you get it. It will have a warranty so that any defects can be resolved (probably none will arise) It will also have a riving knife (which is a wonderful safety feature) My first saw was craftsman contractors saw, it looked good. I eventually found out that the arbor was not true and causing a less than perfect cut. I could have found out if I had of put a dial indicator on the arbor at the time of purchase but I was much more green 40 years ago than now. Unless you know saws, I would suggest purchasing new.

The Delta 36-725 would be a fine choice.

[lowell holmes]

I have a 20 year old 10" Delta series 2000 that is solid. I changed the motor from 120 to 240 volts. It really does not bog down.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Frankie and Lowell.

I agree that the 36-725 seems like it would be a great saw for me.

Does the 13 amp motor make a difference?
All the other saws are 15 amp?

There are so many bad reviews of the 36-725 on the Lowes site; especially motor problems and quite a few horror stories on Delta's customer service.
I realize it's not a huge fortune but a pretty good investment for me.

I only have 110 in my garage.
Probably wouldn't be a huge deal getting 220

Frankie, I just noticed your sig on Border Collies.
I have 2.
Great dogs

[Frankie Hunt]

Does the 13 amp motor make a difference?
All the other saws are 15 amp?

Yes, but not as you expect. The 13 amp motor is an induction motor and will have more torque and will be more powerful than the 15 amp universal motors. (and quieter! and longer lasting too!)

If you are uncomfortable about the Delta reviews there are two other saws that you could consider:

The Ridgid 10 in. Cast Iron Table Saw item number R4512 from Home Depot.

The Grizzly G0771Z - 10" Hybrid Table Saw with T-Shaped Fence.

The Grizzly is the best of the 3 but it pushes your budget.
There is a lot to read into negative reviews. Who gives them, their expertise level, number of saws sold, etc. Its pretty easy to bash something now a days. So I read them with a grain of salt.

Any of those 3 saws can produce great work and will not be a limiting factor on your woodworking endeavors.

[Ray Newman]

You mentioned the Delta reviews. Back-In-The-Day, Delta was a US based company and had a well deserved, positive reputation for quality machines, customer service, parts, etc. Sad to say this, but today's Delta Machinery is "offshore" and not the same in terms of customer support, parts, etc....

[lowell holmes]

You mentioned the Delta reviews. Back-In-The-Day, Delta was a US based company and had a well deserved, positive reputation for quality machines, customer service, parts, etc. Sad to say this, but today's Delta Machinery is "offshore" and not the same in terms of customer support, parts, etc....

Maybe this is a good reason to buy used proven equipment. My 15 year old Delta is US made and rock solid and still going strong.

[Charles Lent]

Why buy new?

If you are careful and watch craigslist, you can get an older Delta Unisaw or Delta Contractor saw in good condition well within your budget, but you will probably have to go through it and clean it. They almost never break I bought my Mid 80's Unisaw for $650. It was running and almost no rust and came with a 54" Unifence. According to the previous owner I am the third owner of the saw. I spent about 3 hours cleaning the cabinet inside and out. Then did a complete lubrication. I use Johnsons Paste Wax, applied to the gears and ways with an old toothbrush. The surface of the wax dries and doesn't attract sawdust like grease and oil do, yet it lubricates very well. I also changed the arbor bearings and belts while I had it apart. I also bought a plastic cover for the open side to reduce the noise level and keep the sawdust in. Then I re-waxed the top and put it into use. I'll never need a better saw than this Unisaw, and my son will likely inherit it when I'm gone. I added a Wixey Digital Readout to the fence and I can set the fence position, make a rip cut, then move the fence away from that position and then back to the same readout position and rip a second board, then measure both with a dial micrometer and they will be within 0.003" inches of each other, Even with the bearing and belt replacement and the Wixey DRO I still have less than $1000 invested in the saw. My projects now always fit together perfectly as long as I don't make any cutting mistakes. I couldn't wish for a better saw. It's rock solid. I had mixed emotions about the Unifence because I had never used one, but I use a Biesmeier fence at work and had thought it was the best fence until getting the Unifence. A Unifence is just so much more universal than other fences and I now prefer it over the Biesmeier at work, which is on a 7.5 hp 12" Delta saw.

I bought a Delta 34-444 Contractor saw for my son that was missing the motor and the miter gauge for $150. I found an original Delta Contractor saw motor in almost new condition for $75. It came with a round pipe style original fence but no miter gauge. I found another fence off a newer Delta Contractor's saw that also came with two miter gauges and bought them for $25, then sold the fence alone for $50. We cleaned it up, waxed the gears and ways, and changed the belts. We left the bearings unchanged, because they sounded OK. This was 5 years ago and the saw is running fine for him. I believe that if it had a DRO on the fence, that it would prove to be just as accurate as my Unisaw. The big minus with a Contractor's table saw is that there is no sawdust containment at all on them. At least my Unisaw has an enclosed cabinet where most of the sawdust collects, and an access door in the front to get to it.



Charley

[Larry Foster]

Thanks everyone for continuing to patiently offer advice and suggestions.

I do like the idea of a warranty because I'm not terribly clever in general or, specifically, mechanically.

This quest started because my late father-in law has a decent Craftsman in his garage.
It hasn't been started in 12 or 13 years so I'm not sure if it still works and I don't have access to check it out.
I don't know the model because my wife and her 2 sisters refuse to discuss anything.
I offered to (possibly) buy it but none will talk about it.
The property has been sitting vacant for that long

I suppose it would be easier to make a decision if I decided if I just wanted something to putz around with, which is probably the case, or be a serious hobbyist