UPDATE:
I don't post mush these days, but while browsing this morning, I came across this thread. I had forgotten about it.
I am not sure if I have ever mentioned it or not, but I do make a few of these here and there with 16 to 20 ppi teeth on them. I may just settle on 18ppi. Reversed, of course. Naturally, they are filed but not set. This simply makes them available to function similar to using a back saw backwards as some do. BUT it is much easier to hold and use than the saw. This helps to remove excess waste and prevent splitting at the edges of the boards. Wood only compresses so much before it pushes outward and splits. My personal kerf tools have teeth. The only down side; it can make the tool more difficult to remove from the kerf if you pound the teeth into the wood. You can still use them similar to a chisel by tapping on the brass cap nut in the end. Just not with a metal hammer. Tap is the operative word here. So, there you have it.
I would imagine that taping a tool with a hammer would also create a much less accurate kerf than one cut with a saw. The existing saw curf is useful in guiding the Kerfing tool.
Worth mentioning I recently bought a version of the tool from Taytools. It is definitely not premium quality, I needed to grind the edge square and flat. for some reason the edge appears stepped like it was finished on both sides with little accuracy and no quality control.
It was cheap, maybe an upgrade is in my future.
I didn't know brass could be hardened
Ron I think you meant to reply this to a different thread.
Do you have a kerf starter tool in the works?
I don’t know Ron Bontz, but I proudly use a small plate he sent me a couple of years ago, when I idly asked him in a thread here what metal would be best for the kerfing task in a half-blind. He made up two plates, one with each grain direction, and mailed them to me. That act of generosity fondly calls his name to mind every time I reach for my crude homemade kerfing tool.
There are kind ones out there.