Contributor
I'm a retired contractor as well as a avid woodworker. But the best tool is not a tool but a system.
I watched my crews spend lots of time dealing with power cords, electricity, hammers, and nails. So we changed.
I purchased Milwaukee 18v drills, mini 'skil' saws, impact drivers, recip saws, portable band saws and SCREWS.
Threw away power chords, nails and hammers.
Production skyrocketed. Quality improved.
Undoubtedly, the battery powered tools were the greatest improvement.
Member
I would like to use battery powered tools, but am concerned about the life & power of the tool & the cost of replacement batteries which can be almost as expensive as the original tool. Plus, those that can be re-charged seem not to have the same power as original. Can dead batteries be rebuilt by the consumer? I currently have a dead Porter-Cable 18V drill and last time I checked (~ yr ago) that would cost $79 to buy a replacement battery, probably more now.
Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!
"We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill
I've had several tool purchases turn out better than expected. The first was my Kreg Jig that my wife talked me into at a wood show many years ago. I purchased it and it sat on my work bench for at least a year other than the initial playing with it. Then I was working on a project and need to add a piece inside a project and the only method to do that was to attach each end of the piece with the Kreg jig. I've used it extensively ever since.
The second purchase I made was a set of Dewalt cordless drills (used from a member of SMC). I thought that they were a weak alternative to putting screws in by hand. Now I wonder how I ever built anything with out them.
The third tool purchase was of a jig saw to replace my old B&D one that finally died. I purchased a Bosch Barrel grip jig saw and was amazed at the lack of vibration, power and quality of the cut. Some of their progressor series of blades will give cross cut surface finish quality that rivals a $100 carbide blade.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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Contributor
I wonder if they feel that people would use 'inferior' bits and accessories in their Festool drills, get "not-up-to-Festool-standards" results and blame the drill rather than the tooling? Only reason I can think of. Or maybe the same reason inkjet printer manufacturers have started putting chips on their ink cartridges to make using 3rd party ink difficult - it's all about the $$$.Originally Posted by Ben Rivel
Contributor
Countersink cage. Depth adjustable by 1/1000". per click. Piloted countersinks.
Bill
https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...2/Default.aspx
Member
Two years ago I bought a CRB7 jig and all of it's available options. It is a router positioning edge guide, a router circle cutting jig 3/4" - 60+" radius, a router mortising jig, a router edge trimmer, and probably a few more capabilities that I'm forgetting. I have 11 routers with many kinds of jigs and fences for them, but it seems like every time I need a fence or circle cutting capability for one of my routers since buying the CRB7, that I reach for it. Any router with the side holes for edge guide rods no matter what size can be used with it. The CRB7 comes with two sizes of guide rods, but two more sizes of rods are available for it, and they all screw together end to end for making the very large diameter circle cutting capability. With one pair in the jig to attach the router and the other three pair screwed together end to end and attached to the jig I can cut a circle with over a 60" radius. But the jig alone can cut a radius from 3/4" up to 7" and the pivot pin for small diameter circles is stored in a hole in the CRB7 base magnetically, so it's hard to lose it. The CRB7 base has a fine position adjustment for moving the router to the exact position that you need whether routing an edge or cutting circles. This fine adjustment moves one of the guide rods, so with the router clamped to this rod, the fine adjustment can be made, then locked in place by locking the adjustment as well as the router attachment to the other rod.
I recently bought two gauges from MiterSet. One of them allows you to set any standard 3/4 X 3/8 bar miter gauge in 0.5 degree increments up to 50 deg in either direction very accurately.
The second gauge is called MiterSet Segments and is used to set the same standard miter gauge to the angle needed for cutting segmented circles. You don't even need to know the angle for the number of segments that you want, Just move a pin to the desired number of segments and a second pin for the zero reference.Just push the miter gauge face up against the pins and tighten the lock. Then using a stop for the segment length, you can miter cut all of the segments and they will perfectly fit together. These gauges are CNC machined and built with Aerospace hardware quality. I'm very impressed with them. I was able to cut a perfectly mitered 17 segment circle on my first try.
Charley
Contributor
My Festool drill included a normal 'jacobs' style chuck, and a right angle chuck, along with the semi-proprietary centrotec one. FWIW, its the small CXS version, very light weight, nice for tight places with the right angle chuck, but not good for heavy duty jobs. I tend to grab a Makita instead unless I'm in a tight space.
Mark McFarlane
Contributor
The #33 hand plane from Harbor Freight. Bought it out of curiosity, fettled it, I use it a lot in the field more of less like a block plane, especially to shave plywood edges or rough looking wood where I'd be afraid to use a good blade.
https://www.harborfreight.com/no-33-...ane-97544.html
The retail price has increased a massive 50% since I bought the plane. It's now $15, up from $10.
Member
Lee, I couldn't agree more on the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig! I've had mine for only a few months and have used it on dozens of projects.
I'm not sure the technical name for them ("twist bit" maybe) but a set of drill bits that have an adjustable counter sink cutter attached will change your life.
Contributor
I've thought about posting on this thread for a few days now. Thinking it over. I think I'll go with a couple of the tools:
1) I have a Powermatic PJ882 jointer with a Helical Head on it. Due to the length of the tables (combined about 7'), decent power and dust collection, it is a pleasure to use and probably the best power tool in my shop.
2) I bought some of the steel straight edges (1 foot, 2 foot and 3 foot) from Veritas and also a set of feeler gauges from them. All are really very nice and a pleasure to use.
PHM
Contributor
How much do you think your straight edges from LV helped you enjoy using your jointer?
I ask bc I'm setting up a new shop and need a good straight edge to get everything properly calibrated.
Contributor
Hi Jacob,
For setting up the tools I'd recommend good straight edges and feeler gauges. The ones from Lee Valley are very good and I think fairly priced. I chose the steel ones.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...40,45313,56676
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...13,51657,32527
PHM
Contributor
FWIW, I chose the aluminum one and love it. It is very stable and works well for checking stock, machines, etc.
Contributor
I have one of their long aluminum (30") ones and love it. Glad to hear the steel ones are good value!
Member
Vortex brand router bits are the best I have used by a loooooooooooong shot.
Seriously, nothing I have used comes even close.
Either their geometry, or their sharpening, or both is just in a class above.
The level of finish, along with the almost effortless amount of force it takes to cut a full 1" deep in Hemlock in 1 pass with a 1/2" diameter bit, coupled with how quietly it does it is impressive.
My Barr brand cabinet chisels are the best I have found. Great edgeholding, and easy sharpenability.
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