Originally Posted by
John K Jordan
As always, possible ways to proceed depend on several things: size, type of blank (rough chunk or plank?), green or dry wood, tools on hand, how perfect you want it to be.
FWIW, I work basically the same way as Bill:
- Mount the block on one end. If starting with a plank with mostly parallel sides I cut round on the bandsaw then most often use a screw chuck (Glaser) or turn a tenon on the lathe, or drill a recess with a Forstner bit. If a irregular chuck of wood I might flatten one side off the lathe for a screw chuck or a faceplate or flatten or cut a tenon between centers on the lathe for a chuck. This will be the top of the bowl.
Then,
- Mount the block with screw chuck, scroll chuck, or faceplate.
- Flatten what will be the foot. Turn the outside of the bowl. Turn a tenon, recess, glue block, etc. to hold by the base.
- Mount the base on the lathe and hollow the inside.
Assuming this is dry wood, how perfectly round I want it to be the outside may need to be trued both before and after turning the inside. Before, due to slight irregularities in the wood at the point of mounting, and after due to to the wood moving by the hollowing. Wood almost always has internal stresses - hollowing can allow these stresses to relax and the wood will move. When I make a lidded box or bowl that requires a good lid fit I follow Raffan's advice and let the piece sit overnight after turning close to the final wall thickness. The next day it almost always requires truing. Green wood, of course, requires other methods. Just like from stresses, the wood can also move a little if there is residual moisture in the dry blank or as the newly exposed dry wood acclimates to the conditions in the shop.
As for a trued blank not running perfectly true when turned around, there are several things I can think of that could be going on. One, every time a chuck is tightened in a recess or on a tenon the steel can press unevenly into the wood as it deforms it slightly. Some wood is worse than others. For example, if the jaws press more into one side than the other due to a softer spot there, the whole blank can be shifted or tilted slightly. Two, if there is any "fuzz" in the bottom of the recess (or a bit of sawdust) it can keep the jaws from contacting perfectly. This can even happen when mounting the chuck on the lathe! When mounting a chuck, Chris Ramsey, in a demo on turning a cowboy hat, made a point of first carefully cleaning any sawdust away from the contact points on the chuck on the lathe spindle. (And never use a fiber or plastic spindle washer! - they are notorious for causing problems)
I usually don't worry about the outside being very slightly out of true with the inside unless the walls are very thin or I want to turn detail on or below the rim which will require touching the outside. In this case, I might true up just the upper part of the outside and blend the transition. I usually true twice or more: once after first mounting, again after hollowing the inside, and maybe again if the wood moves a bit after it sits on the lathe a while.
Oh, another thing that can cause it to run out of true when chucked: the chuck jaws themselves may be slightly out of true. You can check this on tightened jaws with a dial indicator (turning the spindle by hand) but it may be different when the jaws are expanded. When machining some chuck jaws recently to make them absolutely true for precision work, I expanded the jaws into a ring I made to take up any play. This worked very well.
JKJ