bedframe with builtin drawers - wood or metal rail?

[Jeremy Patrick]

Right on Jim! I was contemplating something along the same lines but wasn't quite sure what would go in that dead space. The original plans actually spec out 3 spaces; guess I should have stuck to the original layout!
What orientation do you have the door swing going?
We found an awesome deal on a semi finished cedar chest, and that sits at the foot of the bed now. If we didn't have that I had already been scheming up an idea for a hidden drawer in the footboard panel. Gues I'll have to find another item to make hidden compartments in....

[Jeremy Patrick]

Thanks, I'm excited to tackle it.
This project is being paired with building a bathroom vanity base cabinet. Lots of pine came down around my folks place a few years ago, so I have a nice pile of true 2x6 rough cut lumber to work with. Bed frame is aiming to be all pine and stained, but the vanity is soft maple and aimed at a grey colour paint. Had another thread on that here and narrowed down to a mix of GF milk paints to get the gray we're wanting.
We'll see how it goes!

[Jeremy Patrick]

I was wondering about the price points on these actually. Even though the available models go up to 30", is it worth it to get the larger unit vs tailoring the drawer depth to the ~22-25" limit.

[Andy Giddings]

I was wondering about the price points on these actually. Even though the available models go up to 30", is it worth it to get the larger unit vs tailoring the drawer depth to the ~22-25" limit.

If it helps, I normally figure out what I need to store, and that tends to dictate drawer size etc. Bedding can take more space (wider, deeper drawers) than clothes need for example.

[Jim Morgan]

Right on Jim! I was contemplating something along the same lines but wasn't quite sure what would go in that dead space. The original plans actually spec out 3 spaces; guess I should have stuck to the original layout!
What orientation do you have the door swing going?
We found an awesome deal on a semi finished cedar chest, and that sits at the foot of the bed now. If we didn't have that I had already been scheming up an idea for a hidden drawer in the footboard panel. Gues I'll have to find another item to make hidden compartments in....

Jeremy, doors are hinged at head end, otherwise would be really difficult to access. King waterbed is 80L x 76W, so still have some dead space in the middle - couldn't figure out any way to access that.

[Jim Becker]

For functional needs, such as the drawers that would be in the bed base in your project, I'd absolutely use slides for the best long-term performance and ease of use. Traditional wood slides are great in fine furniture for sure, but for this project...metal for me. They can be hidden types so they don't show as a compromise between looks and function.

For the internal rails on the frame that will support your platform, there's no need to eschew wood if you us material that's appropriately sized and use a fastening technique that adds strength. A groove, glue and a few mechanical fasteners (screws) would work just fine. Be sure that the grain direction of the rails matches that of your frames. One thing...you still need center support even with a platform for a king sized bed, so be sure you plan for that in your structure.

[lowell holmes]

That sounds like an interesting project . . .

[Jim Andrew]

Any chance you could post pics of your project as you proceed? My son would like a platform for their bed with drawers as well.

[Jim Dwight]

Sounds like you have a plan but I will add my 2 cents worth anyway. I build only beds without boxed springs. I do not build in drawers, however, preferring to make the bed more conventionally and then build rolling drawers to go under the bed. Works for my kids and me.

[Jeremy Patrick]

If I could bring this topic back to the front; maybe I'm just too tired after a long day but trying to figure out the intricacies of blum's product line is giving me a headache.
Could I get some clarification on what would be the ideal selection for the following:
25 3/4 length inset drawer front. Approx 24" depth.
That's all I'm looking for. since I'm aiming to get the rails first, I can build around whatever is needed. Too many dang options when using their calculator and excel spreadsheet. Feels like I need a degree in Blum to figure it out.
For a clothes drawer, I don't see the need for the blumotion soft close feature. Too often then not the clothes are smooshed in there enough that you have to push the drawer in, so any soft close feature probably wouldn't be seen as beneficial.

suggestions?

Thank you

[Lee Schierer]

If I were to make our bed frame over again with drawers under the mattress, I would use full extension slides instead of the 3/4 extension slides I purchased 40 years ago.

I feel the only reason that metal slides were not used in antique pieces is because they didn't exist. I've made furniture with wood slides and see no advantage and there are disadvantages such as having the drawer pull all the way out unexpectedly and stickiness due to seasonal moisture changes and wood movement.

Whatever you do make the base in two sections so it can be moved in and out of the room. I didn't do this with our Queen size bed frame and it is a real bear to move. I have to remove the vanity in the family bathroom to move the frame into the bathroom to make the swing through the door into our bedroom.

[Jeremy Patrick]

I plan on making this modular wither the cabinet body being secured to the head and foot board by pocket screws. I know we're not going to be in this house forever so assembling and moving has to be part of my design.

[Andy Giddings]

If I could bring this topic back to the front; maybe I'm just too tired after a long day but trying to figure out the intricacies of blum's product line is giving me a headache.
Could I get some clarification on what would be the ideal selection for the following:
25 3/4 length inset drawer front. Approx 24" depth.
That's all I'm looking for. since I'm aiming to get the rails first, I can build around whatever is needed. Too many dang options when using their calculator and excel spreadsheet. Feels like I need a degree in Blum to figure it out.
For a clothes drawer, I don't see the need for the blumotion soft close feature. Too often then not the clothes are smooshed in there enough that you have to push the drawer in, so any soft close feature probably wouldn't be seen as beneficial.

suggestions?

Thank you

All of the Tandem undermounts have soft close AFAIK so for an inset drawer of 24 deep you would need the 569 or 569A series depending on the drawer thickness (569.6100B or 569A.6100B). As I said earlier, if you have a wider drawer than 24" consider the lateral stabilizer as well

[Jeremy Patrick]

I see where you're going now. Finally came across a pdf of the new 563 and 569 series and it gave a drawer depth chart. I think what was throwing me off was the excel planner from blum telling me to use the 563 even for the dimensions I mentioned, so I was getting really confused on where the 569 units came in.

I do hear your point of considering the stabilizers for such a wide drawer, but that is also something I can tailor a bit. Maybe play with the faceframe measurements a bit to try and eat up some of the drawer width while keeping all 3 spaces equal.

Looking at the prices though, going with a 21" 563 vs a 24" 569 is a decent price break. I had put the dimensions of the drawers on the larger size simply to try and make use of the space. but the total bill for 4 of the heavy duty rails, plus locking devices and the jig was getting a bit over $250.

The lowest prices I've been able to find so far are from ahturf.com

The 21" 563 cart total was about $160 with the jig. (4x20 for rails, 4x3.44 for locking devices, 45/jig)

Would you say that is a decent price or would there be another place to look at for even lower prices?

The vanity I'm also planning to build would have 6 drawers which would be awesome to use blum in those. If so then the jig will prove quite useful for the money.

[Andy Giddings]

I see where you're going now. Finally came across a pdf of the new 563 and 569 series and it gave a drawer depth chart. I think what was throwing me off was the excel planner from blum telling me to use the 563 even for the dimensions I mentioned, so I was getting really confused on where the 569 units came in.

I do hear your point of considering the stabilizers for such a wide drawer, but that is also something I can tailor a bit. Maybe play with the faceframe measurements a bit to try and eat up some of the drawer width while keeping all 3 spaces equal.

Looking at the prices though, going with a 21" 563 vs a 24" 569 is a decent price break. I had put the dimensions of the drawers on the larger size simply to try and make use of the space. but the total bill for 4 of the heavy duty rails, plus locking devices and the jig was getting a bit over $250.

The lowest prices I've been able to find so far are from ahturf.com

The 21" 563 cart total was about $160 with the jig. (4x20 for rails, 4x3.44 for locking devices, 45/jig)

Would you say that is a decent price or would there be another place to look at for even lower prices?

The vanity I'm also planning to build would have 6 drawers which would be awesome to use blum in those. If so then the jig will prove quite useful for the money.

Those prices seem about as low as I've seen around the regular online suppliers I've used. I've never used a jig as I either mount the slides resting on the bottom of the cabinet or drill a regular 32mm pattern and use that, but I only build frameless cabinets these days (a lot of wasted capacity in face frames plus they are more of a pain to build)