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Thread: New Workshop - Need lots of good advice

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You use full size sheets except over the troughs...so the majority of the floor is done "normally". You're just making things easy by having removable panels just over the duct work. Some folks actually use steel for that so they don't have to worry as much about supporting the joint between pieces, but 3/4" underlayment plywood (not OSB) is pretty strong stuff..
    Is any vapor barrier necessary? I'm assuming yes.

    Would pouring an epoxy floor coating over the cement provide a better vapor barrier (I would think yes), albeit at a greater cost?
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 08-23-2017 at 8:54 AM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  2. #32
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    While block walls "generally" do a pretty good job relative to "insulation", adding a moisture barrier and a few inches of additional insulation can make for a much more comfortable space...humidity is what it is. It's made a noticeable difference in my own shop.

    To your question around wall material, to a certain height, many woodworkers find it convenient to use a wall material that is easy to fasten cabinetry and other things securely. Drywall isn't the best for that purpose for obvious reasons. So if you fur out the walls (my shop has block walls and I used "half studs" to provide space for insulation as well as a way to security fasten wall material) you can cover the lower half with plywood or OSB or even solid wood if you want it to look finished and do drywall above that. Alternatively, drywall is "cheap" if you don't mind the finishing work and you can put up a slat system that fastens to your furring to support storage.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #33
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    If you do use plywood use exterior grade so it can be dried out. OSB or similar will get wet and delaminate and have to be replaced after a flood. Of course mold will grow inside the wall if it floods so you will probably have to pull it off anyway.
    Being in Florida the advice about vapor barriers may be backwards since the cold side is inside for you.
    Bill

  4. #34
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    I'll have the architect look at these and determine what they think is the best mounting approach. I'd hate to think that the foundation can move, tied into 60 vertical piles, but I guess anything is possible.[/QUOTE]

    I think the issue with leveling is that a slight slope side to side will cause the trolley to run to the low spot. This will be almost impossible to stop when it is unloaded. I think any long rail slope is not such a big issue.
    The bridgebeam can be rated for say 1/2 ton which should be plenty for most lifts and if needed you could jack it up with a 4x4 near the load points for a little extra safety margin. For home use I would not recommend powered endtrucks or a powered trolley. Too expensive, too heavy, too big.
    Bill

    Check out the link below for a good discussion but remember they are talking machines and raw stock that weigh at least 2 or 3 times wood working stuff.
    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...e-shop-255478/

  5. #35
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  6. #36
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    I like having a skylight that can open for ventilation. Wish I had one in the shop.
    Bill

  7. #37
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    Thanks Bill, useful info.

    I know the powered end truck would be tempting, but I feared it would be dramatically more expensive.

    Didn't think about the hoist running to the low spot. We will have to ensure that it's perfectly level (not necessarily easy, but hey someone is going to have to do their job.)

    If it floods, all the affected wallboard (whether it be OSB or exterior plywood) will have to be removed, so are their other inherant advantages of exterior plywood over OSB, or vice versa?).

    Skylight would be wonderful, but with the house above, that would make for a nasty hole to below .

    Interesting question about where to put the vapor barrier. Does it go under the joists (protecting the floor from the moisture in the cement) or over them (dealing with the absurdly high humidity in Florida)?
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    We've just purchased a new home, and one that presents a great opportunity to design a workshop with a relatively clean slate in a great space.

    The home we are purchasing is near the beach, so is built up to withstand hurricanes. In fact, it's built to withstand Cat 5 hurricanes, and is easily the strongest home construction I have ever seen. This is what presents me my opportunity for a great workshop.
    I'm very sorry that it looks like you will be getting an early test. Please keep us informed about how you get through the next week. Our thoughts are with you and all in Irma's path.
    Colorado Woodworkers Guild
    Colorado CNC User Group

  9. #39
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    Thank you so much for your concerns. Looking good news and bad news scenario with the present storm track. We'll likely get Cat-2 winds, but it should arrive at low tide, and we'll be on the "good" side of the storm for storm surge. Miami, Ft Lauderdale, and West Palm Beach may not do so well.

    Of course, if it keeps moving west, conditions here may change rapidly.

    The worst case scenario for us would be if it crosses into the Gulf of Mexico. That could be a horror show, so everyone around here is praying it stays to the east.

    Many, many people have evacuated to Orlando - right into the path of the storm. They may have a very rough night on Sunday.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  10. #40
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    And it keeps moving west.

    I may get to see how accurate my Elevation Certificate is. Sigh...

    Now expecting Cat 2-3 winds, and storm surge of hopefully only 3-6 feet. Margin of error is going down by the minute.

    I spent the last two days installing the hurricane shutters to my present home. Pretty exhausting work.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  11. #41
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    OK. Home and family survived the hurricane intact. Thankfully, it went due North after landfall, and largely spared us except for lots of wind. Amazingly, never lost power, even though about half of the state did. Naples / Marco Island was crushed. Hope everyone is okay there. Storm surge was only 1-3 feet here, as opposed to the 8-10 predicted, so the ground floor where the workshop will be located should be just fine.

    So, back to thinking about building the workshop, and renovating the new house. Thank you all for your concern.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    OK. Home and family survived the hurricane intact. Thankfully, it went due North after landfall, and largely spared us except for lots of wind. Amazingly, never lost power, even though about half of the state did. Naples / Marco Island was crushed. Hope everyone is okay there. Storm surge was only 1-3 feet here, as opposed to the 8-10 predicted, so the ground floor where the workshop will be located should be just fine.

    So, back to thinking about building the workshop, and renovating the new house. Thank you all for your concern.
    Excellent news! If building in your location I might consider building on a concrete floor raised a few feet. (Hey, built-in loading dock!) Who knows what next year will bring.

    JKJ

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    Excellent news! If building in your location I might consider building on a concrete floor raised a few feet. (Hey, built-in loading dock!) Who knows what next year will bring.

    JKJ
    Huge storm surge would probably overwhelm that. I don't think I can plan for the truly catastrophic storm as far as the ground floor workshop is concerned. I plan on elevating the floor about 18 inches on pressure treated wood joists, and can lift the machines onto cinder blocks with the overhead bridge crane. Other than that, that's what flood insurance will be for.

    Fortunately the house above is the strongest built house I've ever seen. It is in a more dangerous flood zone than my present house, but I'm pretty comfortable to plan on living in a concrete reinforced home 17 feet above ground level. I'm planning on solar panels and 2 days of battery backup, so not planning on bringing the generator with me, and hoping that power failures will be a thing of the past.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  14. #44
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    <p>
    OK. I give. What&#39;s with the weird characters that are showing up when I try to post. How do I get rid of those?</p>
    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 11-19-2017 at 5:21 PM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  15. #45
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    <p>
    OK, now on to the plans stage. I have gotten most of the equipment specified out, and some of it I already own. The problem I am having is that the workshop is long and relatively thin, and I am having a hard time coming up with a good configuration. So I am hoping that brighter heads here will come up with a better idea. The biggest problem I am having is coming up with enough room between power tools. For instance, how much room is needed on each side of a jointer? A planer? A drum sander? The jointer already has a 7-foot 3 inch bed, so presumably about 3-foot 8 in of jointer bed on each side of the blade. I do not often joint 8 foot long lumber, but sometimes I do, so do I really need 4 feet on each side. No way I had that on my present machine. The jointer height is also 1 inch higher than my table saw, so I am thinking that I will put those machines a maybe a foot closer together. What is comfortable walking distance between machines? Should I be orienting the machines along the short axis instead of the long axis? Basically tons of questions, and not enough answers. I would love lots of good advice here. I will need to have the locations sorted out before the equipment is delivered, and installed. Thanks.</p>
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    Last edited by Alan Lightstone; 11-19-2017 at 5:18 PM.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

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