Experimental Finishes for a Cast Iron Plane

[lowell holmes]

The black automotive paint on my bench plane that I mentioned in an earlier post closely resembles japanning. Don't discount it, it is reversible if you don't like it.

[Mike Brady]

If I was going beyond the normal restoration processes such as this poster is wanting to do, I would consider powder coating. Would not choose any of the processes he mentions (overkill and not in the spirit of the original tool) and I would not go with real japanning ( too fragile). Automotive engine paint is the best dyi method. Despite what you might think, over-restoring actually lowers tool value. Most collectors will shun a repainted tool and restoring adds almost no value other than the satisfaction of doing it.

[bridger berdel]

If I was going beyond the normal restoration processes such as this poster is wanting to do, I would consider powder coating. Would not choose any of the processes he mentions (overkill and not in the spirit of the original tool) and I would not go with real japanning ( too fragile). Automotive engine paint is the best dyi method. Despite what you might think, over-restoring actually lowers tool value. Most collectors will shun a repainted tool and restoring adds almost no value other than the satisfaction of doing it.

This is a sensible approach. I use rattle can spray paint if the original jappanning is gone and the look of it bothers me ( it usually doesn't). If the tool is lightly rusted I'll wipe it down with scotchbrite or Steel wool lubed with carnauba wax. If the rust is heavy it gets soaked in vinegar or a session in the electrolysis tank as needed, then the scotchbrite and wax.

I clean tools for my own use, not to sell. I just like the well used and going strong look.

Otoh, the pile of excess old Tools is getting out of hand. I'm going to have to get off my butt and sell them off to make room....

[Patrick Chase]

This is a sensible approach. I use rattle can spray paint if the original jappanning is gone and the look of it bothers me ( it usually doesn't). If the tool is lightly rusted I'll wipe it down with scotchbrite or Steel wool lubed with carnauba wax. If the rust is heavy it gets soaked in vinegar or a session in the electrolysis tank as needed, then the scotchbrite and wax.

Scotchbrite is terrific stuff IMO. I'd been using it forever for ski base prep. Swix rebrands it as "fibertex" and charges an arm and a leg. Most serious ski tuners figure it out quickly and use the stuff in the 3M catalog.

In any case I use it in place of steel wool for rubbing, for cleaning and light rust removal, etc. The thing to be aware of is that there are several grades with different abrasive types and grit. The maroon and grey pads are good for things like rust removal, while the white ones are basically equivalent to 0000 steel wool.