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Thread: Corner joint for porch or deck railings

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Come on!

    The head is tilted 90 degrees such that the blade is parallel to the table. The long rail is clamped to the table at 45 degrees (or whatever miter angle) to the track, and the blade is drawn through the rail end.

    But you don't have room and so don't have one. So you'll have to make a jig for a Skilsaw.
    I forgot the head can rotate that way as well.

  2. #17
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    We almost always use a miter with spline, cut with a slot cutting bit. This is an ipe top cap.

    Make sure the spline is cut from face grain stock and not quarter sawn!

    1spline.jpg

    2spline.jpg
    WoodsShop

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Wood View Post
    Make sure the spline is cut from face grain stock and not quarter sawn!
    Can you elaborate? I know what quartersawn lumber is. I've never heard face grain stock before. I have use quartersawn, riftsawn, and flatsawn to make splines. So long as the grain is perpendicular to the joint, what does it matter how the lumber is cut?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    I think I would want a slot wider and deeper than a router slot cutter would make (emphasis on the depth).
    Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14182-...n%3A2805197011 will cut a 1/2" deep slot. You could substitute a smaller bearing to get a slightly deeper slot. With a tight fitting spline (grain running across the joint!), there is really no need for greater depth. The slot can be started and stopped so the spline is not visible after the joint is assembled. Or if you have access to a Domino, you could use that.
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

  5. #20
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    I didn't say I didn't have one. I have a slotting bit that does 1/8" wide by 3/4" deep. The feather method andy mentioned would have a much larger spline. Being outside and a large board 2"x8", I was working on the premise of bigger = better. I'm still not convinced 3/4" depth is enough grip to last in the elements.

  6. #21
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    Use a handsaw if you don't have access to a RAS or don't want to use the router and clean out the slot with a chisel then cut a spline to fit. 10 minutes.

  7. #22
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    Let's recap.

    Three options have been offered:

    Half lap, standard miter, spline miter, and feather spline miter. I have concerns about trapping water between the two layers of the half lap and accelerating wood rot. The standard miter has it obvious problems. As for spline miter or the feather spline miter:

    Use Tablesaw: Can jig a board 8+ feet long

    Use RAS. Don't have one.

    Use bandsaw: Table tilts wrong direction versus the direction the blade cuts

    Use slotting bit. Maybe not deep enough to provide enough strength. (granted I don't know the required strength vs the strength of a 1/2" thick x 1 1/2" wide x 8" long spline)

    Use hand saw: Cuts can be made, but the narrow chisels aren't long enough to clear the waste.


    Any other corner joints viable that can be made on the end of 2" x 8" x 13' board?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    I didn't say I didn't have one. I have a slotting bit that does 1/8" wide by 3/4" deep. The feather method andy mentioned would have a much larger spline. Being outside and a large board 2"x8", I was working on the premise of bigger = better. I'm still not convinced 3/4" depth is enough grip to last in the elements.
    Diagonal on a nominal 2x8 is about 10.5". Allow .5" at each end to conceal the spline. 9.5" long x .75" wide ~ 7 sq. in. x 2 (for both sides of spline) ~ 14 sq. in. gluing surface on each side of the joint = a ton! 1/8" is a bit thin for the spline - 1/4" or 3"8 would be better. Prime the cut ends of the miter before cutting the slots - I'd be more worried about water getting into the end grain than the spline giving way.
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Morgan View Post
    Diagonal on a nominal 2x8 is about 10.5". Allow .5" at each end to conceal the spline. 9.5" long x .75" wide ~ 7 sq. in. x 2 (for both sides of spline) ~ 14 sq. in. gluing surface on each side of the joint = a ton! 1/8" is a bit thin for the spline - 1/4" or 3"8 would be better. Prime the cut ends of the miter before cutting the slots - I'd be more worried about water getting into the end grain than the spline giving way.
    I am most concerned about water above the spline and between the mitered ends.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    I am most concerned about water above the spline and between the mitered ends.

    It's a exterior deck railing right? It's going to fail eventually . But with the spline , and sealing the end grain you'll have done as much as humanly possible. You could seal the end grain with CPES before you prime and after you cut the slots.

    There's a point of practically and a time limit on all wood exterior jointry. Some place you have to find that balance.

  11. #26
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    How about a bevel and band the joint with a copper or ss strap or, SS rod driven through the joint.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 08-22-2017 at 10:25 AM.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul girouard View Post
    you could seal the end grain with cpes before you prime and after you cut the slots.
    cpes? .

  13. #28
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    ... in line with James's suggestion, you should be able to do the job with a router. You can build a jig (two sides on which the router will run) that will allow you to cut a groove to whatever depth you wish (limited by the length of the router bit) along the length of the mitre.

    You will hold your board with clamps on the face of your bench and the surface of the mitre will be more or less horizontal.

  14. #29
    How bout a dutch miter? Looks different and less material on the diagonal to shrink and open up as it dries.

    I don't know if it was mentioned, but what material is your railing? PT lumber will most likely be soppy wet during install, and will a miter will open up within a few weeks even if it was cut and installed perfectly.

    Having trouble attaching this pic, but here's the link from Google images...

    http://freeplans.com/Resource.ashx?s...Mitered-Rabbet

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    cpes? .
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