Corner joint for porch or deck railings

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm in the process of finishing the new porch. The final step is the top railing. I'm trying to decide what joint would be best for the corners. First thought would be miter. But I have heard, and seen on the old deck railing, the miter cut is not the best option. I was thinking of half lap or half lap miter. The concern with either half lap joint is trapping water between the overlapping portions and causing the wood to rot more quickly.

So my question to the resident experts, what corner joint would you recommend for the deck top railing?

[Von Bickley]

I would use a standard half-lap, but I am not an expert.

[andy bessette]

Miter with full length slip feather epoxied in.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Miter with full length slip feather epoxied in.

Like the bottom picture (or even second to last)?

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/knowle...ng-joints.html

[andy bessette]

Like the bottom photo. The slip feather grain runs perpendicular to the miter joint. And the slip feather is nearly as wide (across the grain) as the miter. Extremely strong.

[Anthony Whitesell]

How would you make the cuts on the end of 2" x 8" boards 8 to 13 feet long? I'm thinking the tablesaw jig and dado blade are out of the question.

[andy bessette]

Radial arm saw.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Radial arm saw.

???

Plus I don't have one.

I thought about the bandsaw (forgoing the fact I haven't a clue how to control a 13' board during the cut), but I don't have a way to chisel out the center. Too deep for the chisels I have or have access to.

I have been contemplating the spline reinforced joint (second to last) and cutting it with a spiral bit in the router.

[lowell holmes]

Check this out.

http://www.gottagodoityourself.com/a...ng-wood-joint/

[Anthony Whitesell]

A+ on the coolness factor. But I'm not seeing it work on a 2x8 deck railing.

[Jim Morgan]

How would you make the cuts on the end of 2" x 8" boards 8 to 13 feet long? I'm thinking the tablesaw jig and dado blade are out of the question.

Use a router with a slot-cutter bit.

[andy bessette]

...I don't have one...

No excuses.

A radial arm saw is elementary and has been an essential machine in my shop for many decades. IIRC I paid $250 for my ancient Craftsman RAS and would never be without one.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Use a router with a slot-cutter bit.

I think I would want a slot wider and deeper than a router slot cutter would make (emphasis on the depth).

[Anthony Whitesell]

No excuses.

A radial arm saw is elementary and has been an essential machine in my shop for many decades. IIRC I paid $250 for my ancient Craftsman RAS and would never be without one.

You're right. It is an elementary tool. But moot. I don't have one, don't have access to one, and don't have room for one. Beyond that I'm not seeing how it would make the cut on the end of a 8+ foot long board.

[andy bessette]

...I'm not seeing how it would make the cut on the end of a 8+ foot long board.

Come on!

The head is tilted 90 degrees such that the blade is parallel to the table. The long rail is clamped to the table at 45 degrees (or whatever miter angle) to the track, and the blade is drawn through the rail end.

But you don't have room and so don't have one. So you'll have to make a jig for a Skilsaw.