Needed to fit a small lipped drawer. Block plane won't get quite to the lip. Take the little guy off the bench and in two shakes he does what he was meant to do. Hero for this AM. Here are a few pics.
Jim
Needed to fit a small lipped drawer. Block plane won't get quite to the lip. Take the little guy off the bench and in two shakes he does what he was meant to do. Hero for this AM. Here are a few pics.
Jim
Did you put a knob on the block plane? I've never seen that before.
Jim, I have a MF bull nose just like that. I can never seem to get it adjusted right, so it digs in and doesnt work well. Got any tips on how to set it up?
Thanks,
Fred
It's not clear why you had to do what you did but it's great when you have a tool that gets the job done.
I think chisel plane when I use it. My knowledge comes from a mentor of years ago. It is a trimming plane. I don't use it to try to cut a rabbet only to trim. I set it up by putting it on a flat object and getting the iron even with the sole. By the way the nose of this plane is not co-planer with the sole, it was made that way. Check out Patrick Leach's Blood and Gore site. He explains it some. I keep mine handy, it works very well for me when used as intended.
Jim
A few of those have come through my shop. None of them ever worked as well as I would have liked. Sold them all. Now for bullnose work my Stanley #90 gets used.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I know the discussions about this plane come up once in a while. From those discussions I know that few find use for the plane or try to use it as a rabbet plane or a bullnose plane which does not work well. I use it for light trimming. It does a good job of flushing pegs, trimming up against an obstructions, small areas around inlay work and such. Works for me, YMMV. The action is somewhat like a chisel plane which I have used but don't own one. I find them to large for the type of work I use the plane for.
Jim
James raises an important point: In some bullnose planes but not all the nose is recessed a bit relative to the sole behind the iron. In those planes the "toe" is effectively a depth-of-cut limiter for a chisel plane. By this I mean that the toe does nothing when you work a mostly flat surface, but acts to prevent the plane from "digging into" high spots as an ordinary chisel plane would. If you have one of those bullnose planes then you do indeed have to set it up exactly like a chisel plane, because that's what it is.
When I owned one, adding a palm rest to the back of the plane helped, improving it from unusable to mediocre. It was just a chunk of wood held on the upper back of the plane with a screw, and shaped to provide a place for my palm to rest instead of the top of the iron.
My Stanley 90J gets pulled out nowadays for that kind of work.