Anyone trim down their Sawstop PCS to reduce the width?

[Derek Cohen]

Currently running a Sawstop Jobsite Saw, and I fold it up and lean it against the wall when not in use. I'd really like to have a cabinet Saw from Sawstop, but I'm very tight for space.

I have a narrow single car garage to work out of. It's just too cramped even for the 30" PCS.

I was was thinking about removing/trimming the MDF extension wing and trimming the rails as well so I can have a little more room to walk around.

I rarely rip anything wider than 18", and I have a Tracksaw (Festool TS 75) for wider rips.

Anyone tried this? Or any thought on doing this?

Hi Bill

I recently looked at the Sawstop Professional 36" - because the fence was better than the 30". I also wanted the slider accessory. The problem was that the rails needed to be cut to get the slider closer to the blade (after removing the cast iron panel to the left). And then the rails needed to be cut to shorten it to the right. Crazy! SS do not make provision for a reduced width for those wanting the features and quality in a small overall footprint.

I was also looking at the Hammer K3 at the time and, although I think that the quality of the SS is actually better, the K3 began to make more sense: the right footprint and all the features I needed for a similar price. The K3 Winner (48" x 31") I ended up with was more expensive, but there is a 31"x31" K3 Basic which is the same price as the SS Pro 36" (here in Oz).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sam Murdoch]

On a related question I have been wondering if the stand of the SAWSTOP JobSite saw can be turned from the orientation usually seen in the photos, i.e. can the wheels go to the left and the outrigger sit under the fence/table side to the right of the blade?

I'm one of those guys who has diminished my table saw needs to a minimum with a track saw and a decent bandsaw BUT I still find that a table saw (a small one, at least) is indispensable. Trouble is, like the OP, I hardly have room for any machine that cannot be rolled or folded to put away. The SS job site job has great appeal but that outrigger stand, as it seems to come, will cause me more harm than convenience. The contractor saw on wheels ends up being more realistic but then I would need to keep my Bosch job site saw (set up on a really great compact Rousseau Mobile Max 2500 stand) for install work and so, one more tool to keep in storage until needed.

[Bill Dindner]

Hi Bill

I recently looked at the Sawstop Professional 36" - because the fence was better than the 30". I also wanted the slider accessory. The problem was that the rails needed to be cut to get the slider closer to the blade (after removing the cast iron panel to the left). And then the rails needed to be cut to shorten it to the right. Crazy! SS do not make provision for a reduced width for those wanting the features and quality in a small overall footprint.

I was also looking at the Hammer K3 at the time and, although I think that the quality of the SS is actually better, the K3 began to make more sense: the right footprint and all the features I needed for a similar price. The K3 Winner (48" x 31") I ended up with was more expensive, but there is a 31"x31" K3 Basic which is the same price as the SS Pro 36" (here in Oz).

Regards from Perth

Derek

the euro style machines confuse me, I don't have any experience with them, so it's hard for me to get a frame of reference if I'd like working with them. At the same token, I've been intrigued by the Mafell Erika series, but again, I know how to use and am comfortable with a Standard table saw, and I like the piece of mind that I have a Sawstop.

On a related question I have been wondering if the stand of the SAWSTOP JobSite saw can be turned from the orientation usually seen in the photos, i.e. can the wheels go to the left and the outrigger sit under the fence/table side to the right of the blade?

I'm one of those guys who has diminished my table saw needs to a minimum with a track saw and a decent bandsaw BUT I still find that a table saw (a small one, at least) is indispensable. Trouble is, like the OP, I hardly have room for any machine that cannot be rolled or folded to put away. The SS job site job has great appeal but that outrigger stand, as it seems to come, will cause me more harm than convenience. The contractor saw on wheels ends up being more realistic but then I would need to keep my Bosch job site saw (set up on a really great compact Rousseau Mobile Max 2500 stand) for install work and so, one more tool to keep in storage until needed.

good question, my Sawstop Jobsite came fully assembled in the box, the orientation you mention would work better for me as well, although mine will shortly be on Craigslist.

[Nick Decker]

Bill, curious to know how this turned out for you. Update?

I might be going this route myself.

[Bill Dindner]

Still happy with the Saw, one issue I have found is support for long cross cuts, I put my Miter Saw in storage so I do most of my cross cuts on the table saw. Other than that it’s worked out great.

[Jim Becker]

Still happy with the Saw, one issue I have found is support for long cross cuts, I put my Miter Saw in storage so I do most of my cross cuts on the table saw.

This is somewhat of a normal challenge for a North American cabinet saw type design...they are more optimal for rips than for (long) crosscuts. Nature of the beast. Sleds can sometimes help and folks who do a lot of longer cross-cuts can add an outboard sliding table to provide better support. It's not quite as effective as a native sliding saw with an outrigger, but does help with good material support for longer stock. The downside, of course, is the increased footprint, and these add-on units are generally harder to remove when not needed than an outrigger on a slider. And that flies in the face of reducing your machine footprint as per the original purpose of this thread! 'Glad the saw is working out for you!

[Nick Decker]

Good to hear, Bill. What did you end up using to cut the rails?

It's rare for me to crosscut boards longer than four or five feet. When necessary I just rough cut with a circular saw, then use the Jobsite for final trimming.

[Bill Dindner]

Good to hear, Bill. What did you end up using to cut the rails?

It's rare for me to crosscut boards longer than four or five feet. When necessary I just rough cut with a circular saw, then use the Jobsite for final trimming.

I used an an angle grinder. Tried a hacksaw but it was taking forever

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Bill.