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Thread: Anyone trim down their Sawstop PCS to reduce the width?

  1. #1
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    Anyone trim down their Sawstop PCS to reduce the width?

    Currently running a Sawstop Jobsite Saw, and I fold it up and lean it against the wall when not in use. I'd really like to have a cabinet Saw from Sawstop, but I'm very tight for space.

    I have a narrow single car garage to work out of. It's just too cramped even for the 30" PCS.

    I was was thinking about removing/trimming the MDF extension wing and trimming the rails as well so I can have a little more room to walk around.

    I rarely rip anything wider than 18", and I have a Tracksaw (Festool TS 75) for wider rips.

    Anyone tried this? Or any thought on doing this?

  2. #2
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    No reason you couldn't
    Chuck

  3. #3
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    Also,

    would a Jigsaw with a metal cutting blade be sufficient for the task of cutting the rails?

  4. #4
    I have the PCS with 36 inch fence;


    You really need a mobile base with four swivelling casters, but the PCS base has two fixed, two swivel casters. You could use the ICS base, or do what I did and make your own mobile base.
    The cast iron table gives you a 15 inch cut. If you really want 18” I’d make a three inch filler rather than cutting the extension wing. You need 28" of rail to the right of the blade to clamp the 'premium' fence.


    Sawstop doesn’t list the 30” fence rails separately (they do list the 36” rails), so if you hack the rails there’s no going back but VerySuperTools has plans and videos on making your own rails on their website.


    Good Luck with your decision!


    Edit: I would take the rails to a machine/welding shop to cut. Might cost you $5-$10, they'll do a decent job & you'll have them around when you need them again.
    Last edited by Harvey Miller; 08-29-2017 at 9:45 AM.
    Just a Duffer

  5. #5
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    I try to keep my power tools in a compact configuration, but haven't cut the rails.

    My JET tablesaw fence has a 30" capacity.
    My current setup allows for my most common rip widths (~12" or less), but require rolling the saw out to use the full width. I do find the full width useful for when I'm trimming down glued-up panels (e.g., tops).
    I would also say that it is nice to be able to slide the fence over and out of the way when I'm doing crosscuts with a sled.

    To keep things compact, my bandsaw backs onto the tablesaw, with outfeed going over the tablesaw's right extension wing. The tablesaw rails extend a bit past the wing. These fit around my dust collector fittings.

    Matt

  6. #6
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    I am going to go for it. I just placed the order for the Industrial mobile base, I need to wait until next month to order the Saw, let the wallet recover and give me a chance to sell my Jobsite saw. I will see how it works in the shop before cutting it down, but I am pretty sure I will need to do it.

  7. #7
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    Bill,

    Just to clarify, are you talking about the SawStop Jobsite saw or their Contractor saw? I have the Jobsite saw and there is no MDF on it anywhere, hence no trimming is possible.

    (Like you, my garage has no room for a cabinet saw.)

    Edit: Never mind, I was confused about what you were wanting to do.)
    Last edited by Nick Decker; 08-29-2017 at 11:16 AM.

  8. #8
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    I cut down my Unisaw from 50 to 32" or so. It has a Unifence with aluminum rail, so I just cut it with my chop saw with no problem. For the steel Beisemeyer type fence rail, I would take it to any place that has a steel cutting saw to have it cut neatly. Should take very little time to do.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  9. #9
    You should explore using a bandsaw instead. I know of several people that have moved away from table saws in favorite of the bandsaw. It really depends on your workflow, but a Festool MFT and tracksaw + bandsaw could take you pretty far.

  10. #10
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    Several years ago on this forum or maybe another one?? a fellow said he hinged his rails and right table extension so if he needed the extra width cut he could just move his saw out from the wall. raise the hinged part, lock it in place and all would be good to go. Sounded like a good plan if the hinge pins were lined up for the front and rear rails and all solidly tied together.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Bass View Post
    You should explore using a bandsaw instead. I know of several people that have moved away from table saws in favorite of the bandsaw. It really depends on your workflow, but a Festool MFT and tracksaw + bandsaw could take you pretty far.
    That must be a seriously well tuned bandsaw. I cant get mine anywhere near the cut quality of my table saw. I have a Laguna 1412 btw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Brown View Post
    Several years ago on this forum or maybe another one?? a fellow said he hinged his rails and right table extension so if he needed the extra width cut he could just move his saw out from the wall. raise the hinged part, lock it in place and all would be good to go. Sounded like a good plan if the hinge pins were lined up for the front and rear rails and all solidly tied together.

    That would be just perfect, I doubt I could make one that easily, but if some company came out with that, I would certainly buy one.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dindner View Post
    would a Jigsaw with a metal cutting blade be sufficient for the task of cutting the rails?
    Yes, but a much better solution is a good high tension hack saw with a new 24 or 32 tooth blade.
    (Both can be had for less than $30 and is a worthwhile investment.)

    A jig saw doesn't do so well on tube stuff IMHO.
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankie Hunt View Post
    Yes, but a much better solution is a good high tension hack saw with a new 24 or 32 tooth blade.
    (Both can be had for less than $30 and is a worthwhile investment.)

    A jig saw doesn't do so well on tube stuff IMHO.

    That does seem seem like a better tool for the job. I have an old hacksaw somewhere, but I just ordered a few fresh blades.

  14. #14
    A "High-Tension" hack saw makes a difference too!

    This is a good one:
    https://www.amazon.com/Tools-High-Te...ension+hacksaw
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankie Hunt View Post
    A "High-Tension" hack saw makes a difference too!

    This is a good one:
    https://www.amazon.com/Tools-High-Te...ension+hacksaw

    Not too familiar with that, for some reason I just forgot I even owned a hacksaw. Will look into that one. I like Lenox as well, have a set of their hole Saws, and am very impressed.

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