I had good results in my kitchen with the FastCap powerhead screws. The longer length for attaching to the studs, the 1.25" length for connecting adjacent cabinets.
Charles
I had good results in my kitchen with the FastCap powerhead screws. The longer length for attaching to the studs, the 1.25" length for connecting adjacent cabinets.
Charles
FWIW, I love using a french cleat to hang the uppers. I cut 3/8" BB plywood strips from scrap with a 45 deg edge and screw one to the wall and one to the cabinet (plus a spacer at the bottom of the cabinet to keep them level. It makes one-person cabinet installation a breeze as well as allowing you to put everything up in place to see what you've forgotten about before you start screwing things in place. If you're like me and only do this once every few years you will mis-position or forget a trim strip somewhere! (or DW will decide she'd rather have the cabinets in a different order once she sees them in place.)
Oh-- and install the uppers first, so you don't have to work reaching out over the lowers.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
I use the ones that are not threaded all the way up when the cabinets have a natural or non pigmented finish for exactly the reasons you stated. I actually realized after reading your response that it has been over a year since i have had a customer want anything except some shade of white finish. With anything solid color I pre drill and slightly counter sink and then fill the holes.
I'm interested in your method for crown installation. Do you do installs by yourself or with help? It definitely sounds like a good method but I do most of my installs alone and it seems like it would be very challenging to support a long length with 90 degree pieces attached. Do you have any tricks that help support this. I'm definitely interested in anything that makes installing crown easier. I dont know if there is really an easy way to install crown by yourself but I would certainly be interested in hearing about other methods.
Drywall screws are bad news I assure you. They are very brittle and not made for cabinetry installation. Many years ago I used them before I knew better.
The washer head screws mentioned above are great for getting the cabinets on the wall. I get most of my screws from either Häfele or Richelieu nowadays. A good 2", "type 17 head"wood screw countersunk a 1/4" with a 3/8" forstner is perfect to put face frame style cabinets together. You can fill or plug the hole with a dowel with a bit of paint/stain for a very clean look if they can't be buried under the hinges. Predrilled correctly is crucial.
https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/cate...=&nbPerPage=48
Hi Evan - Best to start a new thread with this question. I'll reply and I'm sure many others will have more to offer. Answering here is a total hijack of the screw question. Feel free to copy and paste from here to the new thread as a starting point for the discussion.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
For hanging cabinets to walls if I have 3/4" full back I use 3.5" Fastcap cabinet installation screws:
http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/vie...&idcategory=11
along with this bit you get a flush mount and you can choose from a variety of plugs to cover it flush with the surface:
https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/cate...982/sku-916917
https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/cate...r-caps/1002884
To make the boxes I use GRK screws.
Cabinet screws - - either GRK brand or Spax.
Just like the one Roger shows
A cabinet screw has that smooth shaft just below the head that allows the screw to draw the cabinet snug against the wall.
A fully threaded screw can leave you frustrated big time trying to snug things up.
Drywall screws are the cheapest pieces of junk with threads you can buy. It takes like a dozen of them to hold up a 10# sheet of drywall.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
[QUOTE=Joe Jensen;2722751]I strongly recommend the GRK screws in the top post. Few screws are designed for shear loads, those are. The are also torx head so to they don't strip.[/QUOTE
Same here. I just did a downstairs kitchen/bar area and these were my go-to screws. Easy to find and made for the job. In the past I've tried the long drywall screws but found many of them snap off just as you are tightening then down.
Mostly I like using Wurth screws. I usually use a #8, self tapping with the nibs on the inside of the head. That makes it easy to drive them in without pre-drilling and they counter-sink by themselves. I have not had any issues going through maple face frames to screw base cabinets together. Uppers I will also use the rounded / molded screw cups, but double them up. They give a much better look. Use a #8 and 3" long.
I am in love with Montana. For other states I have admiration, respect, recognition, even some affection, but with Montana it is love.... It seems to me that Montana is a great splash of grandeur....the mountains are the kind I would create if mountains were ever put on my agenda. Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans. Montana has a spell on me. It is grandeur and warmth. Of all the states it is my favorite and my love.
John Steinbeck
I use 1/2" cabinet backs glued and screwed into the sides. When possible, I spec continuous stud wall blocking at a height that allows consistent screw placement. I either use the GRK cabinet screw mentioned by the first person responding on this topic, or if trying to achieve a really sharp look, I pre-drill for a Frearson head bronze marine wood screw and use a bronze washer. They are very strong, reasonably hard, corrosion resistant, and look sharp. Because they are reasonably hard, I can typically I can drive without bunging the head (unlike a stainless).
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
3" sq drive washer heads to hang them and GRK trim heads to pull FF's together. Length of trim head depends on FF width. As others have stated, I clamp the FF's then pre-drill. If possible hide the trim head behind a hinge.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.