Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
Your 6.5" focus, the 110mm workspace, and able to blaze thru aluminum like butter means that's definitely a 110 lens!
>>disclaimer<<, all of the following is mostly conjecture as I've never changed a lens!
As for changing the workspace and parameter field size, even though I've never changed a lens I'm assuming yes on both accounts. Above I stated the max my machine will engrave/redlight was almost exactly 160mm.. And 160mm is what my field size is set to. At this maximum, I get 3 perfect corners but the top-left corner about 1/8" of the corner each direction is missing, so either the lens is at it's max or the mirrors have moved beyond the point the red laser even hits them. I changed the field size, up and down, and this doesn't change the max size of the square. Also-- I just now checked the HEIGHT/Y-axis of the square, which I didn't do yesterday, and it measures almost a dead-on 6-5/8, which is 167.3mm, so it seems the mirrors have a bit more 'reach' in the Y axis...
So for field size, my assumption is, the user draws or engraves as large a square as possible, then measures the shortest side, then enters the size as the field size. I'm also assuming this number should be accurate because it may be the basis for the engraving size calculations... the mirrors will move much less distance to engrave a 1" square with a 254mm lens than they will with a 110mm lens. I would plan on needing to tweak the new lens for red-light and engraving accuracy. Not sure if there's a way to save current settings for the old lens- me, I take a screenshot of all settings and save them (been doing this with Gravostyle for years)
As for table size, I think it's more a 'user' thing and not all that critical- mine came set at 150, even though it will reach to 160mm. I guess it's 'cushion' to allow for adjustments, a little boundary overage, and to avoid goofy optical issues at the lens's and/or mirror's limits. I have to wonder why yours is set at 109.98-- why not just 110, the difference is .0008"... ?
Anyway, someone who's actually changed lenses would probably be more help than me!
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
First paying job on this beast. It is engraving to about .005 15 times faster than my 30w gantry fiber. To be honest, it's actually going deeper and much cleaner.
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
Aint it fun! Did an anniversary gun this morning. Sig p226 on both sides of the slide about a thousandth or two deep I just a couple of minutes takes me more time to set up and make sure settings are right and hatches are correct than to do engraving. Kev, I've got two lenses and the vendor sent a list of settings for each. No way to save them you just have to change them. I keep my larger on most of the time. I need to do some testing to see if what I thought I saw is true, that smaller lens passes more power thru
Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
SFX 50 Watt Fiber Laser
PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
Powermatic 100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others
Correct - The closer you are to the object the more power you have to apply. You loose power the father away which equates to the larger the lens the further your focal length is away & the more poer that is being lost. The big gain is in work area. If you don'r need a huge amount of power, but could use a larger work area, go with a larger lense.
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
The program doesn't save the settings, YOU do
-- I have notepad lists on all my computers to help me remember everything from logins to post processor settings for my 30 year old machines to the XY offset adjustments in the fiber ...that's how I "save" settings, sorry for the confusion!
The only thing you should have to change when changing lenses is the Field Size in the F3 parameters, yes?
Lens focus on these machines works exactly like those on our C02 machines;
the shorter the focal length, the higher the angle of the incident beam between the lens and the focused beam spot,
the longer the focal length, the narrower the beam...
As the beam angle increases, the focused spot size decreases, and the smaller the spot, the higher the power density.
--and vice versa--
the tradeoff is the same too, the smaller the focal length and spot, the shorter the usable focus distance; longer lengths, more focus range, much more forgiving...
Last edited by Kev Williams; 09-23-2017 at 12:27 AM.
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
Tim, you've probably figured this out by now, but if you want a smoother floor to your engraved recess, Id tighten up the hatch, and use the "interrupted" hatch selection but Id also run a third hatch with a higher frequency at an opposing angle to smooth roughness of the other two passes.
355 - 10400 : )
Download the manual at this link and search for hatch - there is a good section on hatch, including a description of the different types and what makes them different. http://en.bjjcz.com/downloadsfront.d...c-f54067bcfd36
The Tykma manual will help too. link's been posted several times.
Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
SFX 50 Watt Fiber Laser
PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
Powermatic 100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others
Tim
There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
Epilog Mini24 – 35watt - 2006 (Original Tube)
Ricoh SG3110DN
- Liberty Laser LLC
Tim, my comment was more for him understanding the hatches. Not necessarily power settings. But you are quite right. 20-30watt max for the power.
Woodworking, Old Tools and Shooting
Ray Fine RF-1390 Laser Ray Fine 20watt Fiber Laser
SFX 50 Watt Fiber Laser
PM2000, Delta BS, Delta sander, Powermatic 50 jointer,
Powermatic 100-12 planer, Rockwell 15-126 radial drill press
Rockwell 46-450 lathe, and 2 Walker Turner RA1100 radial saws
Jet JWS18, bandsaw Carbide Create CNC, RIA 22TCM 1911s and others