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Thread: Beware Danish Oil in Plastic Jugs!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    I’m glad I have never had metal cans leak, but then again with the Tung Oil coming in a metal can, it does get transferred into the Glas bottles as soon as I get it home, never knew there was a shelf life on metal cans, or was it the content John?

    Robert with the price of the oil I’m not slopping the oil all over and onto the floor and shavings, not cool, but yes some are careless and messy and then things can/will happen.

    Of course not using all kinds of different finishes makes for less possible problems.
    Have fun and take care

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    On the other hand I've decantered Watco Oil into the same plastic squeeze bottle for over 10 years now, for use at the lathe. No problem yet, but the plastic on this is probably thicker than your juice jug. I do have a gallon of nitric acid in a plastic jug that I would hate to have leak inside any building. I keep it outside on a gravel bed protected from UV and accidental damage by a sturdy bucket.

    JKJ
    Quick question on an almost-related note - I had a can of Watco DO that was 1/3 full that was pretty messy so I put it in a HF squeeze bottle - while it didn't leak, I think part of it evaporated because now when I use it it doesn't seem to make the grain pop like it usually does. Maybe it's not penetrating??? Can I add back some mineral spirits or DNA to fix this or is it time to toss and replace?

    Thanks in advance.
    Tom

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    I had a can of Watco DO that was 1/3 full that was pretty messy so I put it in a HF squeeze bottle - while it didn't leak, I think part of it evaporated because now when I use it it doesn't seem to make the grain pop like it usually does. Maybe it's not penetrating??? Can I add back some mineral spirits or DNA to fix this or is it time to toss and replace?
    From the MSDS sheets I could find mineral spirits make up a good percentage of Watco Danish Oil so I would try that first. However, I'd probably get a new can anyway.

    One test for quality loss in a finish that is supposed to dry/cure hard is to put a few drops on a piece of glass and wait. You can tell from this if it dries correctly or if it stays gummy. You can also see if it's discolored.

    I should clarify that while I've kept Watco Oil in the same plastic squeeze bottle for a long time I do change it out fairly often, throwing away the old. I usually only fill the bottle 1/4 or less with new finish. Something in the liquid (probably the mineral spirits) evaporates and escapes through the plastic. I can tell because the bottle is tightly capped and after sitting a while the flexible sides of the bottle bend inwards from internal pressure loss from evaporation. It also appears to turn darker with age.

    Since you have some of the old Watco oil you have the perfect opportunity to test how much it does or does not "pop" the grain! Buy a new can (you know you want to anyway!) Turn a blank with some figure part way, say flatten or turn a slightly curved surface, apply some of the old and some of the new on similar grain or figure. Compare after it dries. I'd love to hear or see the results of this test! It would be interesting to compare the two with the glass test method too. I think I'll try this myself when it's time to replace my current bottle, or maybe I'll just put any old in a different plastic bottle and wait a few more months, then try the tests.

    BTW, I found out from the Mercury Adhesives (CA glue) people that there are different grades of the HDPE plastic used for glue. They told me some types pass far more air and water molecules which can cause the glue to degrade - they searched for the best type for their glues. I think their CA glues are great and their bottles are excellent - the cap has a stainless steel pin that clears glue from the tip. (Mercury Adhesives are also guaranteed from setting up in the bottle. Their guy told me that any bottle that setup up will be replaced for free, no questions asked, no time limit - a lifetime warranty!)

    JKJ

  4. #19
    Thanks for the info John. Will definitely have to do a trial and compare new vs old with pics.
    Tom

  5. #20
    I got impatient and because I didn't have any MS available, I tried adding DNA to my bottle and it seems to have worked. It must help the oil penetrate and work its magic!

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