Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29

Thread: New Woodshop Build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14

    New Woodshop Build

    Hello everyone … I’m fairly new to Sawmill Creek, I’ve been reading posts for a while, but have not created any posts until now. Earlier this year I retired and I’m now building a standalone woodshop … a retirement gift to myself. I’m a hobbyist, I don’t give a hoot about woodworking as income. Family and friends have all asked what I’m planning to make and generally I paraphrase someone I saw on YouTube “… I’m going to MAKE myself happy!” Hopefully, everyone can identify with my motivation and goals.

    It would be helpful for me and I thought perhaps interesting to others if I show my concept and some photos of the shop building that we just completed. I’m starting out with a clean slate, I’m interested in comments and suggestions from folks that have lived through a project of this kind and might be willing to pass on some of what they learned. I’ve spent the past 18-24 months collecting tools and equipment, some are new, but most are used from Craigslist and a local used tool dealer.

    The shop is 20’x20’ in plan with an 8’-6” ceiling height. I know it should have been bigger, bigger is always better, but our local building regulations had a hand with that decision and budget took care of the rest. The shell was built onsite by a local Amish contractor to meet my design concept. The enclosed photos should help illustrate where we stand to date.

    Early on, during the design, I struggled to pick between a concrete slab on grade or raised wood floor deck. In the end, I picked wood because … 1) I think it will be easier on my feet, and 2) it was a better fit with the budget. The floor system as constructed consists of pressure treated 4x4’s at 30” o.c. with pressure treated 2x4’s at 12” o.c., then a layer of pressure treated 5/8” plywood topped by a second layer of 5/8” A/C ply. The contractor calls this a ‘garage’ floor and I must say it’s very solid. I could have saved around $2,000 if I eliminated the wood floor, but it would have cost around $6000 to have a concrete slab with 36” foundation wall poured … so, the wood floor won.

    The interior fit-out is all mine and currently thinking about the following approach:

    1. I’m planning to paint the plywood floor with a porch and deck enamel. I would like to use something like Rust-oleum’s garage floor epoxy with chips and clear top coat, but their literature says it’s for concrete floors only.
    2. I’ll insulate the walls and bottom chord of the roof trusses with fiberglass batts. Windows are dual glazed and the entry doors are insulated steel. For a shop, it should have fairly good thermal performance.
    3. I purchased a 12,000 BTU through wall package heat pump which I’ve located under the windows as shown in the concept model and photos. The unit will have a wall mounted programmable stat and I’m planning to keep the shop minimally heated and cooled during off hours to protect equipment, stored material, paints, finishes, etc.
    4. I’m thinking I’ll cover the walls with ½” OSB and the ceiling with either ‘Homasote’ cellulose fiber board or a high-density fiberboard. Both products are pre-finished white; the fiberboard has an acrylic finish and it’s available at Home Depot. So far I haven’t been able to source the Homasote material, not sure if it’s still available or not. Since I’m doing the interior fit-out alone I’m thinking a prefinished board will be easier to install and quicker to complete. If the budget cooperates, I’ll shoot for a B/C grade ply in lieu of OSB.
    5. I have an electrical contractor and we’re planning to install a 100A sub-panel which he will feed from the house main panel. I’ll have 110/220-1φ phase, no 3φ power available.
    6. We’ll be installing outlets at 42” above the floor and roughly 4-5’ intervals around the perimeter and all circuits will be GFCI protected.
    7. I’m thinking about using 2 tube x 4 foot T8 fixtures, 3 rows with 3 fixtures in each. It’s probably more lighting than I need, but I figure it can’t hurt. Again, budget is a consideration, LED’s would be nice, but that at least twice the cost of T8’s.


    I’ve enclosed some JPG’s showing a 3D concept model and photos of the actual building shell as it stands today. I’m very pleased with the contractor’s work; I gave them drawings made from the 3D model and they built exactly what I designed. I have just about all the shop equipment I want for starters, I’m sure there will be adds and upgrades in the future. The last item in the current plan is a lathe and I’ll probably get serious about that after I finish the interior and have the shop operating. The concept shows a CNC router which doesn’t exist, yet. That’s going to be one of my first projects after I build what I need to operate the shop. It’s something I’ve wanted to design and build for a while … what can I say, I’m a mechanical engineer.

    So, for the question at hand … how does the concept look and sound?

    Regards to all!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    You're going to make me cry if you cover that wood floor with anything other than real wood plank flooring. I wish I had a wood floor in my shop.

  3. #3
    Looks good to me. Plenty of ambient light, nice doors. My shop kind of evolved from a horse barn and is kind of cobbled together so I am envious of the "blank slate" you have.

    A few thoughts:

    1) I would use a stain rather than paint on the floor.

    2) Consider a panned ceiling to give a little extra height. Believe me, it will come in handy.

    3) Actually, I don't think you've got enough lighting. You might want to consider putting outlets in the ceiling and plug the fixtures instead of direct wiring. This give you flexibility to change/add to the lighting plan later on. For example, you may find, for example, you want extra lighting over the workbench or finish area. You can use zip boxes to after you install the ceiling it avoids all the cut outs.

    4)3 way switches if you have multiple entrances to shop.

    5) The painted OSB will look fine I did that in my shop and was surprised how good it looks.

    6) On the circuits one thing to keep in mind is if you plan to run a shop vac to collect different things like router, miter saw, etc, run a separate circuit. Ask your electrician, but in my set up if I plug the miter saw and shop vac in same outlet, the breaker pops almost every time. Ask your electrician about this. I ran everything in surface conduit and the electrician ran multiple circuits in each you can split an outlet to be on separate circuits. I wish I had done this in the new part.

  4. #4
    Good looking shop. No doubt because of development rules or the insistence of a wife that likes stuff to match. Because of the size I would put all the machines and tables on wheels to allow for flexibility. The exception would be the CNC unless you can make a very strong base that doesn't flex.

    The LED lights can be purchased direct from China for much less than you can get them from local suppliers, most of which are Chinese manufactured anyway. I bought 22, 40 watt fixtures for about $550 delivered to my door.

    You drew the dust collection as a single bagger with a pipes at ceiling height. If you turn the unit upside down and hang it from the ceiling the inlet will be at the same height as the pipes, making it a little more efficient. The bag collar will need to be unbolted and turned back to it's original orientation.
    Last edited by Peter Christensen; 09-09-2017 at 11:44 AM. Reason: Addded the DC comments

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    First comment...insulation. Do it well while it's all open...it will pay for itself in lower heating/cooling/general-comfort for sure.

    Otherwise, I like your plan in general, although like some others, I'd want "wood" on that floor rather than paint if it's at all possible. You may be able to source unfinished wood strip flooring relatively inexpensively and if you leave it unfinished or oiled/stained, it will not be slippery and look grand.

    I agree with the suggestion for LED lighting and a lot of it. That was they absolutely best upgrade I've made to my shop ever, outside of making it larger. More light = happy woodworker.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Oh boy, building a new shop - that's fun in itself! My first home shop was 20x20 - space was limited but enough; my second was 16x16 - too small! Next was 1/2 a 2-car garage - way too small.

    I built my shop down by the barn here at the farm a few years ago - I tell people I built it with my bare hands (but I actually used tools!) Been retired since '06.

    After using T5 fluorescent fixtures the T8 look so dim to me. I used 4' fixtures with four bulbs each (electronic ballasts) - they are so bright I usually only turn on two bulbs in each fixture unless I need the extra light. One guy asks for sunglasses when I have all the lights on. I'm still afraid to invest in LEDs - I want to wait until things stabilize. I've had some LED fixture failures after just 3 years and a number of LED bulb failures. Some of the cheap fixtures are HORRIBLE at keeping the LEDs cool and heat is a killer. Before buying Eventually they will get it figured out and the price will drop as well.

    I don't see a bandsaw, is it hiding behind one wall on the sketchup model? I like the two walls without windows since wall space is so valuable. I eliminated three windows from my original plan for that reason. Is the DC in a sound-insulated closet?

    Unless I'm not looking carefully, there appears to one tool omission which will seriously limit your fun - I don't see a lathe! Even a small lathe can greatly enrich your life! (and doesn't take up much space)

    When you run wire to the shop consider running an ethernet line from the house. I put a second WiFi router in the shop and use the ethernet for security cameras. I put everything underground in conduit - but it was cheap since I could dig my own trench (250'). If you do run underground power consider burying an empty 2" conduit with just a rope inside in case you want to add something later.

    BTW, something very useful concerning the lighting - I have one switch by the door that powers a string of small light fixtures through the whole shop (several rooms). This is enough light to walk through, carry in supplies, fetch tools, etc. without having to turn on the "brights."

    Heat and air: a huge plus!! Especially as we get elderly and feeble. Some friends have no heat and air in their shops and their fun time is more seasonal. This is my first shop with heat and air and now I'd hate to do without.

    I too think a solid wood floor would be amazing. I considered that for my shop (I have a barn loft with enough rough sawn cherry) but I never got around to it. A shop I worked in in the 60s was an old building with wood floors - I think it enriches time in a shop!

    One tiny thing which has made life easier for me: Electronic deadbolt locks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJJ1MQ I never have to have a key with me when I want to go in and out. Also, lever handles are great when carrying something - you can open the door with your elbow when both hands are full. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007PNP2I

    JKJ

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Hello Don ... thanks for your advice. I agree a 'real' wood floor would be great, but I doubt the budget can support it.

    I originally thought I might use a middle tone stain with a couple coats of polyurethane, but that has issues too. My contractor used a framing nail gun with clipped head nails, every nail made a nasty slice in the plywood as the nail head was set and he didn't cheat on the number of nails ... up close the floor looks like Bonnie and Clyde's car. The other issue I'll have with a stain and clear wood finish is the need to sand the floor before finishing. There's a lot of shoe scuff marks on the floor which need to be sanded out if I'm going to use a 'clear' finish. If I paint the floor, I can fill the nail holes without regard to the filler color or its stain compatibility and I wouldn't worry about sanding out scuff marks before painting.

    Again, thanks for your time ... Jerry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Knoxville iowa
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    Good looking shop. No doubt because of development rules or the insistence of a wife that likes stuff to match. Because of the size I would put all the machines and tables on wheels to allow for flexibility. The exception would be the CNC unless you can make a very strong base that doesn't flex.

    The LED lights can be purchased direct from China for much less than you can get them from local suppliers, most of which are Chinese manufactured anyway. I bought 22, 40 watt fixtures for about $550 delivered to my door.

    You drew the dust collection as a single bagger with a pipes at ceiling height. If you turn the unit upside down and hang it from the ceiling the inlet will be at the same height as the pipes, making it a little more efficient. The bag collar will need to be unbolted and turned back to it's original orientation.

    Peter

    where did you order your led lights from? I am in the process of finalizing my shop build

    thanks!

    Bruce

  9. #9
    Bruce I talked about them in the thread below. Posts 139 and 141.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...83#post2720383

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Hello Robert ... thanks for your comments.

    Yes, so far it does seem there is nice day light. Construction of the shell was completed last week, so I don't have much experience. The wall with the doors is almost due south and the other wall with the HVAC unit is about due west. I'll probably need shades next summer, especially on the west wall. The doors are insulated steel with dual glazing and they're weather-stripped very well, important in Delaware where it's cold and damp much of the winter.

    I hear you regarding the stain and I'm noodling it ... I can't use a stain only, the plywood needs some kind of sealer. Rain and snow is bound to get tracked in, so I think I need to seal the plywood to protect it.

    I agree with a higher ceiling, but I think that ship sailed a while ago. The roof system is 2x4 trusses at 24" o.c. and the bottom chord is exactly 8'-6" above the floor. I can't cut the bottom chord and I'm planning to use them to staple FG batt insulation in between chords. So, I'm not sure how I can raise the ceiling height.

    I wasn't clear when I described the lighting ... I'm looking at cheap, surface mount, fluorescent fixtures, they come with 5' cords. We're planning to install boxes with duplex outlets, so moving/adding fixtures in the future should be easy. I mentioned having 3 rows of 3 fixtures each; these are equally spaced in both directions, so general area lighting. I think you are spot on with future task lighting needs. I was thinking I should get into operation and see how many times I move stuff before I look at adding task lighting. 3-way switching is not an issue, only way in/out is via the doors shown in the photos.

    Thanks for your positive comment about painted OSB being acceptable. I've spent the past few months reading comments here and on other forums. When someone mentions shop and painted OSB in the same sentence, it's like throwing salt in their eyes. I was also thinking I might do a couple coats of poly on the walls in lieu of paint. Having said that, I wonder if having the floor and the walls with a 'clear' finish will be too much? Can there be too much wood

    You are right about having the dust collector on a separate circuit. It never occurred to me, but a few days ago when I told the electrician I had a collector, he immediately said it needs its own circuit, so it will be as you suggest.

    Thanks for your time ... Jerry

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Hello Peter ... thanks for the compliment! I'm pleased the perception is a good looking shop, but has nothing to do with rules. At the start of this we agreed we would do what we could to make a good looking addition, it's a nice neighborhood and I don't want to have the stand out junk yard. I didn't include pic's showing the shop and the back of our home, but we worked with the contractor to match the siding and roof shingles.

    I hear you regarding the LED's and you're not alone with that advice. If the budget can take the extra cost, I'll probably head that way.

    Interesting comment regarding the dust collector ... I have a JDS single stage unit with the cloth bag and one of the separator lids that you buy at Rockler or Woodcraft. I've been researching what I could do to improve the overall efficiency. I've seen some YouTube vid's where people hacked Harbor Freight units which are the same as mine. JDS sells a cartridge filter kit for $240, I thought about, but as you say, flipping the unit will improve airflow. The other thing I was considering, just exhaust the filtered air (after the separator unit) to the outside. I'm going to try to come up with something, just not sure what ... I'm thinking I will build a closet in the corner of the shop to contain noise.

    Thanks for your comments ... Jerry
    Last edited by Jerry Frank; 09-10-2017 at 8:19 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Hello Jim ... thanks and I agree with you regarding insulation, I'm going to do what I can. I'm hearing an overwhelming NO to painting the floor; I'm going to work on that, maybe a light stain with a couple coats of poly. At one point I thought about using Thompson's Sealer, but then I read their SDS and saw that it's not for interior use. Similar comments regarding LED's ... looks like I need to squeeze the pocket book a little more.

    Again thanks for taking time to comment ... Jerry

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    LED fixtures are not priced much different than the better fluorescent fixtures these days. I'm not comparing against the cheap "shop light fixtures" on the end cap at a home center; rather, the better ones with good ballasts that will light effectively in cold weather, etc. My LED fixtures came from Costo...and were about $30 each for the full fixture. In fact, I put two more up today. There are just some things you don't want to do more than once in a shop ... and good lighting is on that list...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Hello John ... yes, I'm enjoying my shop project, it is fun. I originally approached the contractor with plans for a 20x24 shop, but the local officials would not approve anything bigger than 20x20 on my property, so it was that or nothing. At that point I put my contractor on hold, went back to the drawing board and did layouts with my equipment to get a feel for fit. It's good I did that because the day they started throwing up walls I started getting nervous, it looked too small. Having the 3D model helped a lot.

    I'm getting a lot of advice to install LED's, even my electrician was pushing for them ... I think I might be heading in that direction.

    You mentioned not seeing a bandsaw, it's there, just not in the views I attached to my original post, I'll attach another JPG here ... 17.09.08-3.jpg It's a Craftsman, the type where the bandsaw rotates and the table stays level. Not very good and of all the equipment I have it's probably the first piece I will upgrade.

    As far as a lathe goes, that's the last piece of equipment I'm looking to add to the start-up package. I've been watching Craigslist for something I like, but I will probably wait until I get setup in the shop and then go for it. Lathe work is the one niche in woodworking that I've never really experienced and I'm looking forward to playing.

    We will be installing a PVC conduit with a Cat.6 cable, a piece of RG-6 coax and a telephone line so mamma can get my attention (that wire might have a mysterious failure shortly after occupancy).

    Yes, HVAC is a must! I have the rest of my life to spend in my shop, I don't want to be tied to mild weather only. I bought a 1-ton through wall package heat pump with electric heat back-up from Amazon. The wall sleeve was installed by my contractor; the heat pump and outside grille are due here next week. The unit slides into the wall sleeve, plugs into a 230V outlet and then instant heating/cooling.

    Overwhelming response has been keep the wood floor, NO paint ... I'm going to work on it.

    Thanks for your comments ... Jerry

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Newark, Delaware
    Posts
    14
    Jim ... it never occurred to me to look at Costco. I was talking about a really cheap T8 fixture, I think they were about $18 each plus bulbs at $2 each by the case; works out to around $22. I checked online and found the fixture you mentioned; (2) 4' LED shop lights in a package for $60. We also have BJ's nearby, I checked there and they sell a similar fixture for $32 each. The fixture at Costco outputs 3700 lumens, but the fixture at BJ's outputs 4500 lumens ... I'm going to spend the extra $2 to get the higher light level.

    Bottom line, about $10 more per fixture to get LED's and that's where I'm heading.

    Again, thanks for the tip ... Jerry

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •