Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: Small oak trays - how to finish them?

  1. #16
    Also, any comments on gloss vs. satin finishes? Are some formulated to dry longer? I wiped one of the pieces with paper towel and it did take away some of the shine, does that mean it isn't fully cured? Maybe I need to wait 72 hours...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Kamrowski II View Post
    Does poly normally have a sticky finish, or does that mean it is just isn't fully dried. Should I do anything between coats like polish it slightly with something? Or just put a second coat on. In the end is there any finishing step that smooths the surface?
    "sticky" would indicate it has not cured.

    Anything that cures somewhat slowly is liable to pick up dust. Then if you want it baby-butt smooth, it would be a quick hit with high-grit sand paper (i.e. >320 grit) or a non-woven abrasive pad such as a grey one (approximately equivalent grit to 0000 steel wool without the side-effects of leaving behind little bits of metal should you decide on additional coats of finish).

    Check the instructions for the product you intend to use. Some polyurethane and similar products have a minimum and maximum time window for re-coating without additional surface prep. Finishes that dissolve into each other (shellac and lacquer) are more forgiving in this respect. Finishes that form discrete layers generally need either to go on within some window or have a quick scuff sand for mechanical keying of the layers.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Kamrowski II View Post
    Also, any comments on gloss vs. satin finishes? Are some formulated to dry longer? I wiped one of the pieces with paper towel and it did take away some of the shine, does that mean it isn't fully cured? Maybe I need to wait 72 hours...
    Full cure-out is going to be dominated by ambient temperature & humidity levels as well as the thickness of the coating & chemistry of the coating.

    In general, the gloss is controlled by silica or similar tiny little particles and those won't significantly alter the cure time.

    Note that I use the word "CURE" and not "DRY". A cured finish has fully catalyzed, polymerized or otherwise had its solvents evaporate leaving only the finish material all the way through the finish. A fully cured finish can be mechanically manipulated at will. One that is still a bit soft because whatever chemical process is a work to harden it is still going, cannot be sanded, polished, buffed, etc. without some risk of damage.

    On a fully cured finish, using a high grit (and sometimes adding a lubricant) can alter the gloss. Wiping down with paper from a brown paper bag can help with small dust nibs caught in the finish without significantly altering the gloss.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  4. #19
    I cut another tray today. Used some stain prep and then some minwav gel stain on it. It says to let it dry 10-12 hours. I bought some gloss poly oil based spray today. Should I try to polish it before applying the poly spray? What do you recommend polishing it with?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Kamrowski II View Post
    I cut another tray today. Used some stain prep and then some minwav gel stain on it. It says to let it dry 10-12 hours. I bought some gloss poly oil based spray today. Should I try to polish it before applying the poly spray? What do you recommend polishing it with?
    Vigorous rubbing on the gel stain will probably remove some. That seems counterproductive.

    Spray using the directions on the can you bought, paying attention to time between coats and if recommended, scuff sanding between.

    Depending on what you want the final surface to look like makes a difference on how you might rub it out.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  6. #21
    Mineral spirits definitely fixed the gel stain dried and left bits here and there problem. I'm going to spray it today with the gloss poly. My plan is to hit the top and sides, let it dry for 30 minutes, flip it, hit the bottom and sides, and repeat until it looks good. I'll try to hit the sides less than the top as they are getting it each side.

  7. #22
    I am finding it difficult to get the spray on thin, I wonder if a single thicker spray coat is just easier. I found that dust from a paper towel fibers was a disaster so I am using newspaper as the spray background and blasting it with compressed air before spraying it to make sure there is no dust or junk on it.

    When it finally dries for a couple of days - is there anything that should be done to "finish" the surface, polish it, etc. that can make it glossier or smoother?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,574
    Blog Entries
    1
    If you want to stain wood, don't use Polyshades. It is difficult to get a consistent finish and multiple coats make the finish look muddy.

    Minwax oil based stains work well, but you have to apply them and let each coat of stain dry at least 24 hours before attempting to apply a finish. Apply multiple coats of stain for darker color. I usually apply finish to horizontal surfaces to prevent runs. For me a box would take six times to apply finish to get one complete coat. Always brush toward the edge not away from it. Apply a wet coat to cover, but not an overly thick coating. Check for runs immediately after you have covered all the surface. The nail boards or tack strips will keep your parts from sticking to the table. If you get a drip of run, let it harden and use a scraper to remove the excess finish, then reapply a light coat of finish.

    Follow the directions on the can regarding sanding between coats. I usually sand to 220.

    Above all take your time. This is the final step and you don't want to rush it.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,645
    Alan, are you wiping the excess gel stain off a few minutes after applying? You mention leaving bits of stain which shouldn't happen. For spraying some things, I find it easier to hang them from the ceiling, a rack, or tree limb, so that you can access all the sides without moving the object. Handling things while not cured is where I cause most of my problems. Im currently working on a mirror frame I've been using spray can shellac on, and even though its supposed to dry fast, I'm giving it several hours or overnight between coats, before touching it.

  10. #25
    Hi Stan,

    When I was first using the gel stain, I was applying it with a paper towel and I would try to get all the bits of stain off, but it seemed like the dryer it got, the more it would want to start tearing up the paper towel. I am getting the idea that paper towel is just a bad choice to work with though, I'm just going to use an old rag from now on. My latest attempt turned out pretty decently except it seems like the spray went on a little thick for the glossy I tried. I did have problems touching it too quickly, especially when I was trying to apply a second coat within 2 hours by doing the top, wait an hour, flip it, do the bottom, wait an hour, flip it. I decided to just do as many coats as needed on the bottom without flipping it at all, then once that dries, flip it over, and do as many coats as necessary on top. I'm not sure I need more than one solid coat though. One thing that is interesting is that it doesn't look as good when freshly sprayed, but it seems to dry clearer and glossier.

    I've got to get my CNC/router fixed as the bit I was using got dull and overloaded the cheap harbor freight router I was using and cooked it. I had another one laying in a drawer that I almost have back on the CNC, but not quite yet. Once it is working again, I've got 3 more oak trays to cut. I'll bet all the good advice in this thread will help me do better with them.

    I've got some regular stain, it seems a bit easier to apply/deal with to me.

  11. #26
    Here is the one I just finished:

    tray1.jpg

    tray2.jpg

    This is the project it is for, an electronic recreation of the Enigma cipher machine. This one only has the LED's soldered on so far.

    tray3.jpg

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,574
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Kamrowski II View Post
    Hi Stan,

    When I was first using the gel stain, I was applying it with a paper towel and I would try to get all the bits of stain off, but it seemed like the dryer it got, the more it would want to start tearing up the paper towel. I am getting the idea that paper towel is just a bad choice to work with though, I'm just going to use an old rag from now on.
    Paper towels are not good for stain removal. I use old tee shirts or bed sheets torn into pieces. Once a rag gets too much stain on it, I start with the really covered on and finish with a clean one, swapping out as the rag gets too saturated. Synthetic fabrics generally don't work well either.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •