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Thread: New LV Combo Plane

  1. #76
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    Jim, I live in Australia and our Veritas distributor doesn't seem to stock the various blades for the plow plane(s).
    Will the local distributor special order blades? You might have to wait a while for them, but it might be a good alternative to having shipping that costs more than the item you want.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Will the local distributor special order blades? You might have to wait a while for them, but it might be a good alternative to having shipping that costs more than the item you want.

    jtk
    I found a local source today and ordered the 3/16 and 1/4" T&G blades so I will give them a go with the small plow.

  3. #78
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    Hi Dominik

    I do not recall how well the Small Plow will work without the chip deflector ... (and should this plane now be called simply, The Plow, now that there is no Large Plow, since it called the Combination Plane?)



    Link to review and pictorial: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...SmallPlow.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #79
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    Getting back to the OT, for a moment, Derek, can you show us your preferred profile for the cutting edge of the combination plow knicker? I have made a pair from some scraper stock and would like to try more of a finger nail shape. I have a Lie-Nielsen cutting gauge that they sell for cutting stringing. I use it as a marking gauge sometimes. It came with a spear point cutter profile that would wander off-line sometimes. I made one in the fingernail shape that solved that problem and stays very sharp. It is also much easier to sharpen freehand that that arrow shape with the intersecting bevels, which I find impossible to hold while sharpening. The fingernail is much easier to hone and strop by hand since it is a continuous bevel.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brady View Post
    Getting back to the OT, for a moment, Derek, can you show us your preferred profile for the cutting edge of the combination plow knicker? I have made a pair from some scraper stock and would like to try more of a finger nail shape. I have a Lie-Nielsen cutting gauge that they sell for cutting stringing. I use it as a marking gauge sometimes. It came with a spear point cutter profile that would wander off-line sometimes. I made one in the fingernail shape that solved that problem and stays very sharp. It is also much easier to sharpen freehand that that arrow shape with the intersecting bevels, which I find impossible to hold while sharpening. The fingernail is much easier to hone and strop by hand since it is a continuous bevel.
    I put a ~2 mm diameter radius on the tips of my spear-point cutters, bevelled at ~20 deg or so (freehand). You can run a surprisingly low bevel provided you don't over-engaged these cutters. I don't bother grinding the whole thing back to a thumbnail, as you don't need a profile that blunt to avoid failure.

    Be very careful of burning if you use any sort of power sharpener. These nickers are very thin and have extremely low thermal mass. I burned the first one I tried to reshape that way on my belt grinder (thankfully a "test nicker" that I'd created for the purpose from blue-hard 1095, so I only lost my own time).
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-26-2017 at 12:48 PM.

  6. #81
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    On the Stanley nickers/spurs, I usually only hone the flat back of them. Fingertip into the hole for the bolt. Swirl the cutter around a bit, and check for a burr......

    Hmmm....wonder why my Stanley #45 does not need a "chip deflector" when using the Match cutters?

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brady View Post
    Getting back to the OT, for a moment, Derek, can you show us your preferred profile for the cutting edge of the combination plow knicker? I have made a pair from some scraper stock and would like to try more of a finger nail shape. I have a Lie-Nielsen cutting gauge that they sell for cutting stringing. I use it as a marking gauge sometimes. It came with a spear point cutter profile that would wander off-line sometimes. I made one in the fingernail shape that solved that problem and stays very sharp. It is also much easier to sharpen freehand that that arrow shape with the intersecting bevels, which I find impossible to hold while sharpening. The fingernail is much easier to hone and strop by hand since it is a continuous bevel.
    Mike, this is what I did to mine ...



    These were freehanded on diamond stones, and then polished on green compound. I retained the existing bevel angle.

    Note that this removed about 2mm from the length, and to compensate for this, I filed the slot 2mm longer.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #83
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    Derek, do you use the nickers with that much extension or is that just to show how much clearance you added by filing the slot?

    The nicker is ~10 mm wide (3/8"), so that looks to my eye to be about 1.5 mm (60 mils) of extension. The nicker only needs to penetrate as deep as the shaving you are taking, so the most I ever use is about a quarter of that. The as-shipped nicker extends about 3/32", so you can grind a fairly significant radius (though admittedly not as much of a radius as you did there) without needing to file the slot.

    I've been wondering all along if the people who are damaging the tips on those nickers are using more extension than needed, so I'm curious about how folks set them. I'm having good luck with a fairly tight radius, such that I didn't need to expand the slot, but I also don't extend them by much more than my cut depth.

    EDIT: On a related note, does anybody know how far the newer non-adjustable Stanley 45/55 nickers adjust when new? I have the older-style adjustable nicker on my Stanley and also use that pretty sparingly, but was curious to know what you get stuck with when the newer ones are rotated such that one of the points is engaged?
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-26-2017 at 2:38 PM.

  9. #84
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    Thanks Derek, and Patrick. Just what i needed.

  10. #85
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    should this plane now be called simply, The Plow
    Since it is a small plow compared to others, it seems right to keep 'small' in the name. Besides, nimble plow would be lost on too many prospective buyers.

    Maybe it would be easier if they just gave it a number.

    VSPP works for me.

    wonder why my Stanley #45 does not need a "chip deflector" when using the Match cutters?
    The Stanley blade depth stops do some deflection. The Stanley #45 is well known for building up a jam of shavings in use. Without the depth stop on a a match or sash cutter the shavings can catch on the underside of the blade and be a problem.

    My recollection is there was a shavings diverter that never caught on.

    Holding.jpg

    The dowel in the auxiliary depth stop holder is used to perfect one's technique. If the plane is wobbling side to side, it becomes rather obvious. A woman on Youtube demonstrated this many years ago.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 09-26-2017 at 3:23 PM. Reason: My recollection...
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #86
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    Derek, do you use the nickers with that much extension or is that just to show how much clearance you added by filing the slot?


    Patrick, the nicker was extended for the photo. In use, it would be extended just enough to score a line. Possible 1mm?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Dominik

    I do not recall how well the Small Plow will work without the chip deflector ... (and should this plane now be called simply, The Plow, now that there is no Large Plow, since it called the Combination Plane?)



    Link to review and pictorial: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...SmallPlow.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Hi Derek, I assumed the tongue and groove blades came with a chip breaker. Otherwise, where does one get one?

  13. #88
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    Hi Dominik

    First try the plane without one. It is a chip deflector, not chip breaker. At worst, the mouth will load up. Then you would need to contact Lee Valley for one.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Dominik

    First try the plane without one. It is a chip deflector, not chip breaker. At worst, the mouth will load up. Then you would need to contact Lee Valley for one.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    When I was using the Veritas Small Plow Plane the chip deflectors were included in the box with the blades.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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