Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 89

Thread: New LV Combo Plane

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Dominik Dudkiewicz View Post
    If one already has the veritas skew rebate planes, small plow with wide blade kit and dedicated dado planes plus shoulder planes, do you think one would be better off buying both dedicated tongue and groove planes from LN at less cost than this combo? Or is there some other benefit to this plane that one would miss or would make it a better choice over the no.48 and 49?
    Cheers Dom
    As somebody already pointed out, the small plough is perfectly capable of cutting T&G joints.

    If you've found the plough inadequate for some reason then you might also consider the Stanley #46. The fact that it's skewed means that it would add some capabilities instead of just duplicating the functionality of a plane that you already have.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,534
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    One of their design objectives was to be compatible with Stanley 45/55 irons. If they'd messed (too much) with the bed angle they would have compromised profile accuracy.

    With that said my #55 has a 50 degree bed, so even Stanley apparently felt that the benefit of a slightly increased bed angle was worth the accuracy tradeoff. I would prefer that Veritas had done the same.
    An even higher bed angle of 55 degrees will better suit hardwoods.

  3. Yes, the small plow does use the tongue and groove blades and whilst I haven't tried them myself (hard to get a hold of here) I'd read that using the small plow for t&g is a little finicky / annoying / time consuming to set up vs the dedicated planes.

    Being a recently addicted plane junky and excited to see this newly released plane I was curious to see if there was any justifiable reason to consider buying one (for me).

    The only gap in functionality and desire I have is tongue and groove, but then I could buy both dedicated LN planes for the price of this combination plane (without blades). If there is no benefit over a small plow for t&g then it seems like the LN are the answer. Or buy the LV t&g blades and deal with the reported niggles / see for myself. I don't really want to get into second hand stanley planes as to be honest I don't want to spend the time looking for one and take the risks buying sight unseen online.

    Cheers, Dom

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by Dominik Dudkiewicz View Post
    Yes, the small plow does use the tongue and groove blades and whilst I haven't tried them myself (hard to get a hold of here) I'd read that using the small plow for t&g is a little finicky / annoying / time consuming to set up vs the dedicated planes.

    Being a recently addicted plane junky and excited to see this newly released plane I was curious to see if there was any justifiable reason to consider buying one (for me).

    The only gap in functionality and desire I have is tongue and groove, but then I could buy both dedicated LN planes for the price of this combination plane (without blades). If there is no benefit over a small plow for t&g then it seems like the LN are the answer. Or buy the LV t&g blades and deal with the reported niggles / see for myself. I don't really want to get into second hand stanley planes as to be honest I don't want to spend the time looking for one and take the risks buying sight unseen online.

    Cheers, Dom
    It is true that the dedicated LN T&G planes will be faster to set up, but I have had zero issues with using the small plow to cut different T&Gs...lots of them since I owned it. I think the small plow also has more choices on the sizes of the T&Gs than the dedicated planes (right?).

    If your key concern is with the T&Gs, my advice is not to buy the new Combo Plane or the LN planes, but to get yourself familiar with setting up the small plow for T&G cuts. It is better to make use of what you already have. And from the look of it, I don't think the new Combo Plane will be easier to set up than the small plow to cut T&Gs.

    May be you can find some videos on it (the Lee Valley website?). After a few uses, the plow is pretty simple to change between the tongue and the groove cutters.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    An even higher bed angle of 55 degrees will better suit hardwoods.
    Don't know about the new Combo plane, but I have used the small plow (45 degree bed) a lot and have not encountered any visible problems with the bed angle for all my hardwood projects (I have not used the plow on any softwood projects). What's the concern here? Tear-outs? Would a back-bevel help?

    Simon

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    The only gap in functionality and desire I have is tongue and groove, but then I could buy both dedicated LN planes for the price of this combination plane (without blades). If there is no benefit over a small plow for t&g then it seems like the LN are the answer.
    With the Small Plow, one needs to exchange the depth stop for the chip ejector as part of the set up process. With the Combo Plane, this is unnecessary. Just drop the blades in and go.

    The Stanley/LN T&G planes are a one-shot deal, hence two versions in 1/2" and 3/4" (I have the 1/2" LN). Veritas offer three sizes, and the adjustable fence allows them to be positioned more flexibly.

    An even higher bed angle of 55 degrees will better suit hardwoods.
    I thought of this and included it in my recommendations to Lee Valley. I can think of a few reasons why it was not taken up (other than the fact that I was looking at a preproduction plane, and not one that was still evolving!). The most obvious one being that 45 degrees has been a workable solution over the past 100+ years for North American timbers. The second reason being that the profile of the beading blades would need to change, and there was a desire to ensure compatibility with Stanley blades.

    The complex grains of Australian timbers are a problem for combination planes (all of them) since they work on a skate (no mouth). This is the reason why I looked for a solution and came up with the idea of back bevelling the blades. This is a definite improvement, but it can be defeated by West Australian hardwoods (some of which are seriously interlocked). The more realistic solution is to choose straight-grained wood.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    An even higher bed angle of 55 degrees will better suit hardwoods.
    Dumb question from someone who has not used any plane of this sort ---> Why would a higher bed angle work better? If 45 degree bed angle works fine for Stanley handplanes, why not for a combo plane?

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Dumb question from someone who has not used any plane of this sort ---> Why would a higher bed angle work better? If 45 degree bed angle works fine for Stanley handplanes, why not for a combo plane?
    In three words: No cap iron.

    Also, no mouth. Increased cutting angle is basically the only possible tearout mitigation for these planes.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-22-2017 at 12:45 PM.

  9. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    In three words: No cap iron.

    Also, no mouth. Increased cutting angle is basically the only possible tearout mitigation for these planes.
    The trade-off is that a high-angle cutter is harder to push, which could, not always, result in less control of the cut or the tool. Whenever possible, I prefer a 45 degree bench plane as a workhorse for large surfaces and in case of needs, I go with a low angle plane (with a high angle blade).

    Apart from the measures Derek mentioned, a sharp cutter would also make a difference in most cases. Never tried it but wonder wetting (mineral spirits) the surface may tame the tear-outs. For the average woodworkers, I do not see the 45 degree bed angle being a concern.

    Simon
    Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 09-22-2017 at 1:51 PM.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Dominik Dudkiewicz View Post
    If one already has the veritas skew rebate planes, small plow with wide blade kit and dedicated dado planes plus shoulder planes, do you think one would be better off buying both dedicated tongue and groove planes from LN at less cost than this combo? Or is there some other benefit to this plane that one would miss or would make it a better choice over the no.48 and 49?
    Cheers Dom
    Howdy Dominik and welcome to the Creek. In your next post you mention in regards to blades, (hard to get a hold of here), which makes me wonder, where is here?

    My tongue and groove work has been done with a Stanley #45. If my work used more T&G then a dedicated plane might be in order. The Veritas Combination Plane can do a lot more than T&G. The Combo Plane also has a fine adjustment on the fence to help with set up accuracy. In many situation with T&G it is helpful to run a bead along side of the joint. This helps to cover any imperfections and makes the joint more decorative. The dedicated T&G planes do not have this ability.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2,534
    For the average woodworkers, I do not see the 45 degree bed angle being a concern.
    Simon; the best of luck with that advise.

    The historic name for the 45º bed angle is common pitch. A bit higher (50º, called "York pitch") is used in some bench planes for hardwood and is usual for rabbet or grooving planes. Middle pitch (55º) and half pitch or cabinet pitch (60º) are frequent in molding planes for soft and hardwood respectively. http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/...ters/caop.html
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 09-22-2017 at 7:00 PM.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Simon; the best of luck with that advise.

    The historic name for the 45º bed angle is common pitch. A bit higher (50º, called "York pitch") is used in some bench planes for hardwood and is usual for rabbet or grooving planes. Middle pitch (55º) and half pitch or cabinet pitch (60º) are frequent in molding planes for soft and hardwood respectively. http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/...ters/caop.html
    I think that Derek made a key point here, which is that if push comes to shove and you absolutely must use a 45-degree combination plane on difficult grain then you can always back-bevel your iron to increase cutting angle. I've already done that a couple times with my #55, and with fairly complex profiles. Admittedly it adds work in honing, but a common-pitch combo plane isn't a tearout death sentence by any stretch of the imagination.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120
    Not everyone has access to those fancy woods from down under.....most of us have to get by on Maple, Oak, and Walnut ( Oh my)......Been ploughing grooves today in Birdseye Maple....found that a candle rubbed on to the skates helps a lot when pushing the plane along....even on a Stanley 45...

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Not everyone has access to those fancy woods from down under.....most of us have to get by on Maple, Oak, and Walnut ( Oh my)......Been ploughing grooves today in Birdseye Maple....found that a candle rubbed on to the skates helps a lot when pushing the plane along....even on a Stanley 45...
    Even in soft woods like firs and hardwoods like alder it helps to rub a candle not only on the skates but also on the fence.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  15. Thanks guys. I guess the best course of action is to get at least one size of tongue and groove blade and play with my small plow to see if I'm happy with the results. In reality I probably won't do a heap of T&G so a longer setup time isn't a huge problem (I just prefer to have tools without compromise so long as costs are within reason) provided the end-result isn't compromised. I can see the benfit of the variable offset the plow provides vs the dedicated planes that centre on 1/2" and 3/4" respectively. I guess this aspect may still come in useful even if I later end up with dedicated planes.

    Jim, I live in Australia and our Veritas distributor doesn't seem to stock the various blades for the plow plane(s). Ordering from Lee Valley or the UK is an alternative but then you have to buy a fair bit to justify the shipping cost - which then leads me to consider just spending a bit more again and getting dedicated planes instead.

    For me, there certainly doesn't seem to be a case for this new combination plane.

    Thanks again for the opinions and advice.

    Cheers, Dom

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •