Rawhide mallet

[Mark Stutz]

Does anyone here use a rawhide mallet? I suffer from a lack of restraint at auctions, especially when there are no other bids. One of my hauls a few years ago was a lot of mallets. The cream of the crop was a heavy rosewood mallet. Included was a way beyond use rawhide headed Chicago mallet. Most of the rawhide had fallen out and what was there was even with the iron body.

Is it worth cleaning this up the rest of the way and replacing the rawhide? This is not the split head version, so it is not readily intuitive to me how to replace the rawhide ends. Can this be used as a dead blow mallet for assembly and such?

I have a standard modern dead blow (if I can ever unearth it) but am wondering if this is worth putting any work into.

[Frederick Skelly]

Whether it's worth the work is probably up to you. But as far as replacing the rawhide, I used a brute force method and epoxied leather to the face of a small metal deadblow hammer I made. It's held up fine for me. I'm guessing you'd want a much thicker face than what I did, but I cant see why epoxy wouldnt work for you.

Im not familiar with what the face of that type mallet SHOULD look like. But I wonder if you could cut a strip of leather about a quarter inch wide and roll it up (tightly) like a pinwheel? Youd have to pin or glue the loose end after you roll it up. But in the end, you'd have a circular pad 1/4" thick that you could epoxy to the metal face. Be fun to try, anyway.

[Rick Malakoff]

This is a Green-Tweed No. 1 Defense Hammer, photo shows how the rawhide is installed.
I use this quite a bit with a block of wood for persuasion. It is my understanding that they were was used to form fuselage parts out of tin or aluminum for airplanes.
Rick
IMG_2969[1].jpgIMG_2970[1].jpgIMG_2971[1].jpg

[Pat Barry]

This is a Green-Tweed No. 1 Defense Hammer, photo shows how the rawhide is installed.
I use this quite a bit with a block of wood for persuasion. It is my understanding that they were was used to form fuselage parts out of tin or aluminum for airplanes.
Rick
IMG_2969[1].jpgIMG_2970[1].jpgIMG_2971[1].jpg

Interesting name.

[Mel Fulks]

I noticed right off that the Defence hammer has no Jappaning. That helps date it

[Mark Stutz]

Whether it's worth the work is probably up to you. But as far as replacing the rawhide, I used a brute force method and epoxied leather to the face of a small metal deadblow hammer I made. It's held up fine for me. I'm guessing you'd want a much thicker face than what I did, but I cant see why epoxy wouldnt work for you.

Im not familiar with what the face of that type mallet SHOULD look like. But I wonder if you could cut a strip of leather about a quarter inch wide and roll it up (tightly) like a pinwheel? Youd have to pin or glue the loose end after you roll it up. But in the end, you'd have a circular pad 1/4" thick that you could epoxy to the metal face. Be fun to try, anyway.

I should have posted this other view. The end is a cup at least an inch deep.

It should look similar to this modern Garland hammer, except mine has a solid head rather than split. Rolled rawhide replacements are fairly cheap.

I suppose I can just try to force it into the recess and hope the pounding makes it expand enough to stay put.

On the other hand, since no one has chimed in to say they can't get along without theirs, I may put this little project off to a snowy winter day.

And yes, it is my understanding that these have traditionally been used for metal work.

[David Ragan]

I have a couple of rawhide mallets left over from my long-gun days (then Obama happened, and made ammo nearly impossible to get--not a political statement).

A light oil is great at keeping the rawhide 'fresh'. Every year or so, I retreat them.

Am not confident at all about ability to wrap them so tight-if that was forced upon me, I would consult one of the gunsmith forums. (They don't mar the bluing on guns.)

[Noah Magnuson]

I would think that you could take about a 2" strip and put one end in a vise. Take your time and get the first part started tight and use the tension from the vise end to allow you to continue rolling it up very tight. Yellow glue about 1/3 of the width as you roll it up so it stays laminated. This will be your inserted side so the glue hardening won't be an issue. Once it is wrapped close to the right size, cut it and rubber band it. One it dries, cut or sand a bevel on the insert side and pound it in with one of your many other mallets, or better yet squeeze it in with a vise once you get it started. Run the final product through a sharp tool (knife, band saw, tenon saw) to clean up the face. Finish with a bit of oil and some pounding.

I have never done this, but it seems like it would work well-enough. It may become your favorite mallet.

[Noah Magnuson]

A quick google search for "hide mallet replacement face" get you some hits where you can buy the faces pre-coiled. That seems to be the long pole in this tent (getting a tight coil). There may be some additional tips on those sites. Personally I would rehab it. Otherwise it is just taking up space.

[Rick Malakoff]

Somewhere down the road I sort of remember that soaking in water was the trick to make rawhide flexible and able to shape. Fortunately the one I have came complete only thing was the rawhide was loose so I just wrapped a shaving around and the heads stays in place. I suspect that you/I could use a spot of hot glue or soak the rawhide in water, just a thought.
Rick

[Mark Stutz]

Noah, Yes, I found a couple sources for replacement inserts. Very inexpensive as well.

Rick, I thought about water to soften them, but rawhide shrinks as it dries, so wasn't sue this was a good idea.

David, I like the oil idea. I will probably get some neatsfoot oil, soak, the end, and then pound away.

I'll let every one know haow it goes, but I suspect this will be a while , since the list of shop projects gets longer every day. Bench hooks, winding sticks, tools storage, saw till. And my supply of round tuits is low.

[Matthew Cashman]

Thor hammer recommends a special tool and a press to open and close the face of the hammer:
http://aws1.sitewizard.co.uk/~thorma...osing-tool.pdf

[Jim Koepke]

(then Obama happened, and made ammo nearly impossible to get--not a political statement).

It strains credulity trying to dress it up as anything other than political bombast.

jtk

[Mark Stutz]

Thor hammer recommends a special tool and a press to open and close the face of the hammer:
http://aws1.sitewizard.co.uk/~thorma...osing-tool.pdf

Thanks Matthew. I had read on a machinist forum that replacing the copper was a real bear. I looked thru that procedure on the Thor site. I checked my Chicago and the sides of the recess are perpendicular to the flat bottom, not angled. I hoping that I can just press fit them into the head.

[David Ragan]

It strains credulity trying to dress it up as anything other than political bombast.

jtk

I am not sure what bombast means, but it can't be good.

You have me, sir. My apology is rendered.

I would be better off, and this Forum better served-by me finding more appropriate ways of expressing myself.