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Thread: Removing Labels from stainless tumblers! - HELP!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
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    4,441
    Most of those vacuum cups say do not put in dishwasher and his are marked do not. Frankly I would ask the customer if they want to remove the labels or you will need to charge them for the extra time.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  2. #17
    As I said earlier, I charge a dollar extra for Walmart stuff.

    BTW, I have a high school kid who does my unpacking/unwrapping, coating with Cermark and re-wrapping. It seems to me that if you want to make money at this you have to make better use of your time than doing minimum wage work. Certainly it is necessary at times but for a job like this you'll be spending a full day or more just prepping them.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Minnesota
    Posts
    305
    UPDATE: One more 'n I think we can probably wrap this thread up! I’m progressing with my (400+) tumbler project - my place suddenly lookin’ like a tumbler factory!

    I’ve learned I can use an X-acto knife to quickly slice thru the paper labels; placing protective tape on the backside of the blade, so as not to scratch the tumblers. (sure beats pickin’ at the labels with my fingernail.) As for removing the sticky residue left behind, I’ve tried just ‘bout all of the products you all mentioned. Finally, using DNA, soaking for a ‘couple seconds, then scrubbing with paper toweling - seems to be workin’ okay. (just an extra step I hadn’t planned on.)


    Replying to ‘couple posts: this job’s for the kinda company I wouldn't dare ask to remove their own labels. And, my asking for an extra $1 for my removing ‘em, well ... can’t see it at this stage. (too late.) Live ‘n learn! (I’ll certainly keep the idea in mind for future jobs.) Oh, and I plan to use an individual who has “special needs” to snap the plastic covers back on, ‘n to repack ‘em all. Truth is: this individual revels in helping me, from time to time, with these types of simple ‘n repetitive tasks. (which is an awfully good lesson for me: to always thoroughly enjoy whatever I’m doing!) Still, job’s gonna take me quite ‘bit of time! I’m using a 35W Epilog - taking ‘almost 4 minutes per tumbler at 9 speed/100 power. (Think I could speed it up?) - just ‘fraid of a mishap, as happened with that other outfit I’ve written ‘bout, where 'part of their logo didn't take.) Well, back to work ... BILL
    Last edited by Bill Stearns; 09-15-2017 at 7:51 PM. Reason: typo
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  4. #19
    depending on the surface area you're engraving, 4 minutes isn't bad. At 5 minutes each including in/out, you're looking at 12 per hour- 400 mugs, that's 34 hours work.

    Where's your sink and drying table in relation to the laser? If more than 10 steps away-- get a small table, at least 3 towels, a magic eraser, a rag and a 5 gallon bucket of water. Cover the table with one of the towels. While the next mug is lasering clean off the last one. A wet rag will get most of the Cermark off, the magic eraser- no it won't scratch the mug- is the fastest way to get the remaining Cermark film off. Set the mug upside down on the towel. Repeat, and after you have about 10 mugs stood up on the towel, add towel drying and repacking one mug to the routine. You'll have to change out the water and wet towels occasionally... once you get a groove going you'll easily keep within 5 minutes from machine to boxed up. A helper to switch out towels and water will only speed it up

    I say all this because I've had a run on water bottles lately, to the point I'm having to run 2 machines to keep up. The problem is, one machine is upstairs, the other is downstairs so I can't do the table next to me thing... the wife does help with the wash/dry/repack in the kitchen, but man, the stairs are killing me!
    ========================================
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    1,843
    I charge $1/ea for label remove across the board. For the Ozark Trail, I add another $2/ea for a total of $3/ea for label removal. All but the larger orders will now generally deliver them without labels.
    Tim
    There are Big Brain people & Small Brain people. I'm one of the Big Brains - with a lot of empty space.- me
    50W Fiber - Raycus/MaxPhotonics - It's a metal eating beast!
    Epilog Fusion M2 50/30 Co2/Fiber - 2015
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    Ricoh SG3110DN
    - Liberty Laser LLC

  6. #21
    We received 100 Ozarks from Walmart, all with hard to remove labels and glue.

    I filled cookie sheet trays with Acetone, stacked the cups one inside the other all with label orientation the same.

    Laid them on their side for about 30 minutes each and everything removed well.

    Caution: If you see any glue residue after soaking and label/glue removal, Cermark will not fuse. So don't think your gonna burn through the glue, its not going to work and the Cermark will not adhere.

    -John
    Red Bolt Laser Engraving
    Houston, Texas

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Watch the FuMeS from the Acetone. And being it isn't cheap either, charge them for the service!
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  8. I charge extra for label removals as well. I call it a "De-trash Fee". Customers complain and I inform them that if they remove the labels and glue themselves there will be no charge. Show them an example of exactly how thorough they need to be with the removal. They attempt to do several of them and usually bring them in and tell me to do it and they will gladly pay the De-trash Fee.
    Chuck
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  9. #24
    The only labels that have been a problem are the Walmart ones. All the rest are really easy and I do not charge for them.

    Besides that you must caution your customers to inspect the Walmart stuff carefully for damage. They have as much damage as all the rest combined.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Minnesota
    Posts
    305
    Hey JOHN
    It certainly mystifies me why Ozark Brand (Wal-Mart) feels they need to apply “glue” on the “inside” of their labels, when that small, circular piece of tape they add seems to do the job.
    I did learn that if I tear the labels off very, very slowly, many came off without leaving the paper & gummy residue. (thank heavens!)
    Those on which the paper & gummy residue remained, I ended up soakin’ those in fairly hot water - using Dawn; then, rubbing the label ‘n glue off with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge: worked ‘bout as easy as the other solvents I tried. - ‘n less smelly ‘n messy. Guess the most important thing I’ve learned with this 400 tumbler job is to be sure I’m charging ‘nough, in the future, for label removal, where it might become an issue!


    Oh, and John - I don’t know much ‘bout solvents, but I wouldn’t chance baking cookies in the oven, afterwards, with those Acetone coated pans! BILL
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  11. #26
    Just in case it hasn't been mentioned, the JDS products do not have adhesive labels.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    New Albany, Indiana
    Posts
    47
    Ozarks are hit and miss for the paper mishap.

    If I don't get a clean removal, I run that section of cup under hot water for 5-10 seconds then take a wet wash cloth and wipe with medium force over it a couple times and it removes it.

    I then wipe the entire cup with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to remove any oils before I apply cermark. I do this even if the label didn't leave anything behind.

    I suppose on a large order I would just fill a sink with hot water and soak while a scrub/wipe.

  13. #28
    Made a quick video on how I do my ozark trail cups. I do this before I powdercoat and laser etch them.

    https://youtu.be/hxEh53zvAgg

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