PM 66 Motor Help Please

[Chuck Fischer]

I picked up a PM 66 a few years back and it cuts ok, but when the motor shuts down the blade vibrates a little as the motor winds down. I replaced the arbor and while I had everything appart I listened to them motor and you can hear the bearings are really rattly sounding. The guy that had the saw before me used very heavy blades to make custom moldings. I'm thinking at this pint the motor probably needs to be serviced or replaced. Its a Baldor 2hp motor, model VL3515T. It seems rather pricey to replace, do you guys know of anyone or anywhere I could send it to be rebuilt? Is that motor even the motor that came with the saw originally. I see PM has a 3hp motor now, but I'm worried that if I upgraded to that motor I'd need to replace the switch and wiring.

I could use some advice and help. I need to get this saw back up soon because I am doing a kitchen remodel and I need to build some cabinets.

Thanks for your help.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I sure wouldn't replace a Baldor motor unless it had major problems. It sounds like it just needs new bearings, which any good motor-repair shop can do for a fairly reasonable price. Keep in mind that Baldor motors are notorious for regenerating, which causes a shuddering as the motor spins to a stop. It makes a noise that sounds concerning, but it isn't actually a problem. It could be that this is what you're hearing. There is a good chance that the 2hp motor is original to the saw, and there wouldn't be any reason to upgrade it unless you are frequently bogging it down or overheating it.

--Geoff

[Martin Wasner]

Pull the motor and drop it off at a motor shop and just have them go through it.

Every 66 I've had had a bit of rattle as it shut down. Even new

[Matt Day]

The bearings can be had for a few bucks at any Fastenal off the shelf. If you have a bearing puller you can do it yourself. It's probably take me 30 minutes if the motor was off, but if it's your first time and you've got to get the saw back up ASAP, drop it at a motor shop but call ahead and ask how long it will take.

[Bob Leistner]

Go over to OWWM.org and they will walk you through replacing the bearings, if that is what you need. Another source of the noise maybe the motor acting as a generator on its way back to stopping. If so that is fairly normal, but the folks at OWWM will have a way to get rid of most of that as well.

[John McClanahan]

My PM 66 has a 1.5 hp Baldor motor that I installed. It acts a bit funny during shutdown, kind of like it has an electric brake. The blade doesn't wobble, so I don't worry about it.

[Don Jarvie]

There is a brake in the motor to slow it down. If it sounds bad with it off the saw then replace the bearings. 2 hp should cut pretty much any thing.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The bearings can be had for a few bucks at any Fastenal off the shelf. If you have a bearing puller you can do it yourself. It's probably take me 30 minutes if the motor was off, but if it's your first time and you've got to get the saw back up ASAP, drop it at a motor shop but call ahead and ask how long it will take.

If pulley shaft is 5/8", then two 6203-2RS bearings will set you back about 4 bucks at Fastenal. As for quality, our daughter's Honda has Fastenal bearing (6203-2RS) in tensioning pully that has over 300K miles on it.

[Bill Dufour]

When I pull a heavy motor in a tough to get to place, like inside a cabinet saw, I cut the cord near the motor and pull the motor. I add a new cord to the motor with a twist lock plug. On the old cut end I add a twist lock female cord end. makes the install much easier. And any future motor work is also much easier.
The cord ends do not have to match any existing plugs. I often find some used ones at habitat for Humanity. For smaller motors I have even used a standard 120 volt plug set.
Bill

[Bill Dufour]

Motor bearings are often two different sizes with a bigger shaft at the output end. A good motor will have the bearing sizes listed on the data plate.
Take off the belt and try to move the output shaft. Any play, any direction, you can feel means the bearings are shot. While you are down there try to do the same to the arbor bearings. If one is bad I would replace all four while I am in there. Or at least both on one shaft.
Bill

[Bill Dufour]

There is a brake in the motor to slow it down. If it sounds bad with it off the saw then replace the bearings. 2 hp should cut pretty much any thing.

doubt that there is any braking unless this is a very high end saw. Doubtful below 7hp
I

[Carroll Courtney]

If your time is limited your best bet is to just take it to motor repair shop and tell them whats happening and they may tell you what needs to be done or tell you that's typical for that motor and offer suggestion.Those motors are a c-face frame motor if you did not know that,shop around just to see what a replacement will cost,it does not need to be a baldor motor.That way if you do go the repair route you will have an ideal replace cost vs repair cost.Up sizing to 3hp if your saw has a starter the starter may be rated for 3hp just may need to change out the heaters to match the motor size.Again the motor shop can help with that also,and may be cheaper going that route and you will have piece of mind knowing that the repairs or replacement is correct.If you do pull the motor and if your saw is an older saw maybe its time for a good cleaning which removing the top will may life so much easier.But means that the top will have to be relined again if its is/not already.I also bet if you google some of your questions that some Youtubes will popup if you want to tackle this yourself.Good luck and let us know how it goes---------Carroll

[mark kosse]

Chuck, blade vibration really shouldn't be tied to a motor issue. Have you tried other blades?

My my powermatic has a 2hp motor and the 1976 manual states that was max hp at the time...just FYI.

[Bill Dufour]

For ome reason I thought powermatic saws used a standard NEMA C face motor unlike a unisaw which has a custom motor mount system.
Bill

[Chris M Pyle]

Hi Chuck,

Are you using a thin kerf blade? I've seen others suggest a thin kerf blade can show a little wobble on slow down/stop. If not, have you checked your arbor for runout? Have you checked the belts?