Anyone use a reverse profile to cope trim on a shaper

[Martin Wasner]

It'll give me a chance to practice with my Knew Concepts coping saw and blades. I saw one vote for cutting on the push stroke, but I've always cut on the pull. Anyone else like cutting on the push?

I'm not a fan of cutting on the push. I like the handle beneath the material, and pulling down. You're also pulling down on profile so you can get a little more cute with how tight you are to the line. That's when I actually break out the coping saw, I do everything I can with a jig saw with an 1/8" wide blade.

[Mel Fulks]

I consider handle down correct because it's easier to make vertical cut. But when you lend a coping saw ,expect to get it back reversed by a superior workman too cheap to buy one.

[James Biddle]

You guys are right...the first one took me 15 minutes and it was ugly. After 10 of them it only takes 3 minutes and they look really good. I've just been working on the 90 degree corners so far. Any tips for when I get to the 135 degree corners (or is it 45 degree corners)? I've got two hallways upstairs moving off in different directions that have about 10 of those weird angles.

[Jeff Bartley]

Good job James!
I too like to cut on the pull but I actually hold the handle above the work. I was taught to keep a loose but controlled grip on the saw and to keep it moving. I get close to the cut line then go back over it with a utility knife.
Those 45 degree corners are tougher for sure, you really have to put a back cut on the work!

[Bill Adamsen]

So many interesting ideas. I would stick with the coping saw (never thought of turning the blade around – thanks PG) and files, and use the money saved to buy a pair (or set – depending on your project) of Hartford clamps.

[jack forsberg]

Jack, what kind of abrasive blade are you using?

I've coped for years using a right angle grinder with coarse sandpaper grits but they wear out fast.

[James Biddle]

Wow, I ripped through all of the cuts and fit all the trim I needed in about 8 hours. 48 pieces of trim, but only about 30 of them needed copes, and about 10 had obtuse angle copes. Turns out I'm faster at cutting copes on the RH corners (left edge of the trim). I used my coping saw, and a rat-tail file and Japanese finger file to clean them up. Now I have to take them off, sand, prime, sand, and then install them.

[peter gagliardi]

One thing I failed to mention. If you turn the blade around, and cut on the push stroke, you will quickly learn the quality of your coping saw frame.
It demands a strong frame. The cheapo 1/4"-5/16" bent round bar units flex terribly.
The ones that have a flattened spine that might measure 1/8" or so thick x about 1/2" wide work infinitely better.
I recently ordered a Knew Concepts saw to see if they were better.
I like it, but the stock handle is terribly uncomfortable and doesn't give much control. The frame is definitely stiff though.

You WILL break an occasional blade due to fatigue, or aggressive technique, but you can very easily cut at least twice as fast. A Nicholson 5 in one rasp, and/or a half round and rat tail file bastard cut are standard for final fitting.