Replace bandsaw guide bearings

[Robert Hayward]

Who sells Cool Block type holders for a Powermatic PM1500 bandsaw ? I cut a lot of green wood making blanks for turning. I had Cool Blocks on my last bandsaw and did not have any where near the problem shown in the picture. I was cutting up Irma wood today and had to stop and clean the guide bearings more times than I remember now.

On the bright side I have access to more fresh wood than I could use in a lifetime, or so it seems, thanks to Irma. Unfortunately one of the trees was mine, a yellow Poinciana. A light colored wood that turns really good. Another interesting wood I cut up today was Loquat. Really gummed up the bandsaw but it looks like it will be a good turning wood.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Space Age Ceramics sells a set of ceramic blocks on ebay for less than $90. Look at the illustration, and I think you can see how to make your own, using hardwood.

[CPeter James]

You can get the yoke from any parts supplier. Get the yoke for a JET 14" band saw. You do not need the whole assembly, you can use you existing bracket and back bearing. You will have to file about .005" (five thousandths) off the shank and other than that everything fits. Use ceramic or hard steel blocks. They keep the blade cleaner and run better than the "cool blocks".

I think this is the part, but will check tomorrow. I did this to my Powermatic 14" with a riser block installed.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...&brandName=JET

[CPeter James]

I just checked and the part in the above post is correct. You will need the blocks and screws as well.
CPeter

[Robert Hayward]

Thanks for the replies. However, the PM1500 is a different bandsaw when it comes to blade guide holders. The post that holds the bearings, the side bearings and the back bearing, is octagon and way beefier than the yoke in your link. I will take a picture and post it later.

[Robert Hayward]

Here is the upper guide assembly removed from the bandsaw for a better picture.
Guide brng 3ab.jpg

[CPeter James]

Too bad!I'll have to think on that one.
Peter

[Dave Sabo]

Have you talked to Laguna to see if they have guides that will fit your saw ?

[Geoff Crimmins]

I would agree with the previous poster who recommended the ceramic guide blocks. They screw on in place of the bearings and should help with your problem. Here's a link to the guide blocks for your saw. http://spaceageceramics.com/powermatic-1500/
If you don't want to spend that much you could try making something similar out of hardwood and see how it works.

--Geoff

[Robert Hayward]

I have not talked to Laguna, I will do that tomorrow.

Geoff, thanks for that link. I was looking for a new "holder" that would accept a Cool Block type of guide, ceramic or otherwise. I did not know ceramic guides were made that fit my existing bearing holder. Looks like what I want. I have some hard as steel old growth Live Oak that I might try fashioning guides like the ceramic ones in your link, just to try them out. Should I make them so the end grain is against the blade ?

[Bruce Wrenn]

Should I make them so the end grain is against the blade ?

That's they way I would do them.

[Robert Hayward]

I look at the Spaceage ceramic guides and keep wondering what stops them from rotating ? One cap screw in a slotted hole. If they are a dollar bill away from the blade what keeps them from rubbing at the top of the guide against the blade ? Especially if the blade is gummed up with pitch or resin.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I look at the Spaceage ceramic guides and keep wondering what stops them from rotating ? One cap screw in a slotted hole. If they are a dollar bill away from the blade what keeps them from rubbing at the top of the guide against the blade ? Especially if the blade is gummed up with pitch or resin.

I've wondered that myself, but i've seen several posts here from people who have them that say that doesn't happen. Ceramic guide blocks can be run closer to the blade than steel blocks or bearings, so maybe that has something to do with it. Guide blocks will also scrape a lot of the pitch/resin off of the blade so it won't get too gummed up. You could also e-mail or call the company with questions. I e-mailed them once and found them responsive and helpful.

--Geoff

[Robert Hayward]

A call to Spaceage was on my to do list today and did not get done. I believe I read on their site that the blocks should be positioned the standard dollar bill away from the blade.

Changing from bearing guides to blocks, wood ceramic or whatever, for the scraping action versus pressing the gum into the blade is my reason for wanting to change.