Going on 5 weeks since I ordered it.
Going on 5 weeks since I ordered it.
Bill, for the record, the discussion about how 220V is derived from two 110V legs assumes you are living in North America. If you live in Europe, Asia, Middle East,... that discussion is incorrect.
Mark McFarlane
Youve got 220 coming from the pole, for sure. With the proper wire and breaker size, you'll get 5hp. Without the right breaker size, you'll pop the breaker and without the right wire size, you risk fire. From the sound of it, your son in law knows what he's doing and you're fine. But you don't need the power company to do anything.
Note you have 120/240. 110/220 was gone in most of the country by ww2.
Bill
I personally don't think it is worth worrying over the exact specification target numbers. This is why: When we see or hear 110, 115, or 120 volts I believe most people automatically think "aah, AC electrical power, shop radio, electric lights" and we all know exactly what is meant. The actual voltage measured with an accurate meter at a receptacle in this country is almost guaranteed to be something other than 120v. If it's 115v call the power company and see what they say.
When we write characters such as "110v" or "120v" we do not really use them to mean a number but a name, a label to describe something: the lower of the two non-industrial AC power supplies to our homes and shops in the US. The actual number is not that important to me as long as my lights light and my WiFi wifis.
BTW, for those wanting to be precise the target current supply voltage standard for single phase power is indeed 120/240, but the allowable supply voltage is 114 to 126, range A according to ANSI-C84.1-2011. Range B values are 110 to 127 volts. Based on that, one could be correct to say 110 volt power is still around in 2017.
voltage_ranges.jpg
FWIW, I believe electric motor name plate specifications are different, 115/230. Every single phase electrical motor nameplate I checked in my shop meets this specification.
JKJ
Particularly 220. I have never heard anyone refer to it as 240. Ever.
But that's how minds work.
Every adjustable wrench is a Crescent wrench.
Every tissue is a Kleenex
Motorcycles have motors when they have in fact an internal combustion engine.
Sometimes it must take a couple or 3 generations for these things to work their way out of out vocabulary. Some perhaps never.
Well I've always been confused by it. But I just went along with it thinking if I asked I'd look like an idiot. That's something I try to guard.....my stupidity.
This time I'm being honest about it and admitting I had no idea why all the confusing numbers.
Thanks for clearing it up for me.
Well I did slowly lose one phase of the power to my house. I measured it at 120 and the low side was under 75 volts. When the power company came out he used his expensive meter and it was 120 and under 15 by then. it was a bad fuse on the pole. It was interesting to see the incandescent lights slowly dim to yellow over the course of several minutes.
Bill D.
What would a person expect to pay for this job.
I've bought all the pieces including a new panel to replace the one in the house and going to put the old one in the shed.
It will now be sitting about 3 feet from my attached garage where I already have 240. I want lots of plug-ins for 120 and at least 4 240 outlets.
I plan to have most of the 120 plugins placed 3 feet or so above the floor for ease of use. Maybe the 240s as well.
Job would include lots of overhead lights.
Just a ballpark figure.
I have NO idea about the cost of hiring it (I did all my electrical myself including the underground). But I do have a comment about the electrical box. Electrical breaker panels are so cheap (relatively) that I would just by a new one for the shop. That way you can get one that fits your needs without compromises in mounting and slots. An old panel may have knockouts of various sizes removed were you don't need them removed, etc. A new box will be cleaner to work with and the electrician will appreciate that. With new boxes you also don't have to let the upgrade in the house affect the time schedule of the shop wiring. In hauling in a portable building for my little beekeeping house I bought new boxes for both the pole and the building although I already had some old boxes - I decided it would be it was easier to start from scratch.
I mounted many of my outlets at 42" or higher. People who do flatwork suggest above 48" so they can lean sheet goods against the wall but I don't even HAVE that much spare wall space! I put some outlets low where appropriate and some in the ceiling for pull-down power reels. I also wired certain outlets near the each lathe (and mill, metal lathe) that are switched by a conveniently mounted wall switch. These outlets only power task lighting fixtures above and around the machines. It is so nice to flip on one switch as all the lights at the lathe come on at once. (Several small positionable lights are far better than diffuse overhead lighting, especially at the wood lathe. (IMO)
For a rough idea of the cost make a list of every outlet, switch, and light fixture you want wired, and the number of each kind of circuit and ask at least three electricians. I would also provide a floor plan with the locations of the breaker box, switches and outlets as well as where the power is coming from in the garage and whether it is stretched in the air or underground (recommended). On the floor plan draw where each machine will be placed to determine where to put the outlets and the light fixtures. You need to do this detailed planning anyway (and soon) so you aren't sorely disappointed about something you forgot to consider. I think some electricians charge a certain amount per outlet, whether switch or receptacle, plus materials, and they should be able to quickly estimate or bid the job. Getting three bids might tell you if one is way out of line.
JKJ