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Thread: Felder Machine build recommendations

  1. #1
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    Felder Machine build recommendations

    Looking at working in a smaller but more efficient space. As such, I am combining my machines albeit at a higher capability with the purchase of a Felder combination machine. I wanted to see if anyone that uses Felder equipment - sliding saw, shaper, etc would be able to comment on what might be considered an ideal build. It seems like Felder has lots and lots of options for this machine as well as many shared options between machines. Does anything stick out as need to have or even I have it but never use it, or wish I had included this in my build?
    I also would like to know of tooling recommendations. I'm stepping up to a shaper and am planning to wait on tooling for that near term. I plan to purchase a cabinet insert cutterhead first and then see what I need besides that. I still have a router table with good selection of bits. If you have any Felder specific tooling advice of how I'm making a mistake, I'd love to consider it.
    For the sliding saw, I plan on getting the mechanical scoring and to start, an ATB general purpose blade and flat tooth ripper. I can't find a lot on Felder blades so I'm interested to know everyone's setup.

  2. #2
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    Why not buy used? You'll pay a real premium for a new machine...

    Mac Campshure is representing a pretty sweet set of 5 Felder machines that are basically new and present outside Chicago. For about what you'd pay for a new CF741. And you get a bandsaw, edgebander, and dust collector. There are also a few older CF machines available elsewhere.

    If you really want a new machine, then get the 10 foot slider. You'll face a decision about single or three phase. I'm very happy with my single phase CF741. Some people really like the silent power jointer/planer, but some users have said they think they get better results with either the Felder system blades or the Tersa.

    You may also apply for membership in the Felder Owners Group on Yahoo. Members are very free with their advice, and I've found them an invaluable source of information. They also have provided many with advice on optioning equipment.

    Mike

  3. #3
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    Mike, thanks for the tips.

    Space is my limiting factor here. I'm moving to a smaller space and need to have the capabilities that the CF741 has. I currently have all separates, albeit most are hobbyist level at this point, that won't fit in the new space and lack the precision and capability I need to continue to improve my craft and grow the business. I see this as a machine that will be sufficient for me from now until I can't do it anymore and I'm 35. I've always been one for spending the money upfront if it means a higher level of quality and greater user satisfaction. I think I will get that with the CF741. If I continue to grow, I can purchase separates and have the CF741 as a backup for every tool in a very large shop. Its an investment and I need it to be outfitted for my operation. If someone is selling a CF741 pro s with every option, I would go for it but I need to get this moving now before my season starts in March.

  4. #4

  5. #5
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    I can't help you with the Felder options (I'm more familiar with MiniMax), but I think you'll like having the big combo in your new shop situation. These machines really do bring the "best of everything" into a relatively compact space.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Tagge View Post
    Mike, thanks for the tips.

    Space is my limiting factor here. I'm moving to a smaller space and need to have the capabilities that the CF741 has. I currently have all separates, albeit most are hobbyist level at this point, that won't fit in the new space and lack the precision and capability I need to continue to improve my craft and grow the business. I see this as a machine that will be sufficient for me from now until I can't do it anymore and I'm 35. I've always been one for spending the money upfront if it means a higher level of quality and greater user satisfaction. I think I will get that with the CF741. If I continue to grow, I can purchase separates and have the CF741 as a backup for every tool in a very large shop. Its an investment and I need it to be outfitted for my operation. If someone is selling a CF741 pro s with every option, I would go for it but I need to get this moving now before my season starts in March.
    Mike, understood. There is a CF741 for sale in the classified ads section of this website.

    Mike

  7. #7
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    Hi Mike, I have a Hammer saw/shaper and jointer/planer.

    For the saw/shaper I would include scoring saw, a power feeder on a tilt up bracket, 1 1/4" and 30mm spindle, and the mobility kit if you're going to move it. I also have the tenon hood and the Euro curve guard hood for template shaping and sanding.

    You'll also want the edging shoe that allows you to rip rough material, and a hold down clamp, both of course are accessories, you'll also want to make a Fritz und Franz jig for your slider, remember the REAL jigs have lime green edging

    Options are factory installed, accessories can be added by the user at any time.

    Most of the time my outrigger table is hanging on the wall, and I use the shorter crosscut fence as I mostly make solid wood furniture. Once I need sheet goods or need to process large or heavy items, the outrigger goes on.

    I had most of my saw blades bored at a cost of $20 each. I have only one 12" blade, a rip blade, as rough lumber is normally the thickest I process.

    Regards, Rod.

  8. #8
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    Rod, where did you get your blades rebored? That's one of my sensitive subjects currently with my extensive blade collection
    Currently, the build stands at:
    CF741 SP with 2800mm table
    spiral cutterheads
    switch on slider
    dado capable and set
    power drive on planer and shaper height
    mechanical scoring and blade
    1 eccentric clamp
    F38 power feed with tilt bracket
    Euro Comfort guard
    mortiser
    mechanical digital indicators for table saw blade height, tilt, and shaper tilt
    link segment for rip fence
    miter gauge with length compensation
    butt bump
    sliding table extra extension
    flat tooth ripping blade
    multi tooth fine sizing blade
    rolling carriage
    I'm holding off on shaper accessories and tooling until I figure out what I need. Do I need the safety bar guides?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Tagge View Post
    Rod, where did you get your blades rebored? That's one of my sensitive subjects currently with my extensive blade collection
    Currently, the build stands at:
    CF741 SP with 2800mm table
    spiral cutterheads
    switch on slider
    dado capable and set
    power drive on planer and shaper height
    mechanical scoring and blade
    1 eccentric clamp
    F38 power feed with tilt bracket
    Euro Comfort guard
    mortiser
    mechanical digital indicators for table saw blade height, tilt, and shaper tilt
    link segment for rip fence
    miter gauge with length compensation
    butt bump
    sliding table extra extension
    flat tooth ripping blade
    multi tooth fine sizing blade
    rolling carriage
    I'm holding off on shaper accessories and tooling until I figure out what I need. Do I need the safety bar guides?
    Mike, you may want to consider a Comatic DC power feeder instead of the F38. The Comatic is lighter and the variable speed drive is flexible, just as powerful. Lighter is a good thing with the tilt bracket!!

  10. #10
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    Hi Mike, I had FS Tools bore my blades.

    Any tooling manufacturer/service center will have those capabilities.

    I have the mechanical digital indicators as well, suggest you buy metric as the machine is metric (2mm per revolution). Makes setting much easier than 0.0787" per revolution.

    Andy had a good comment about the Comatic feeder.

    Yes you need safety bar guides for the shaper, incredible safety increase.

    I notice you don't have the edging shoe for straight lining material?

    Regards, Rod.

  11. #11
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    Look up airtightclamps.com and save up for a set of Mac's clamps. I don't know of anyone with them who isn't happy. Dave

  12. #12
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    I have pretty severe lung and my doctor ordered me to protect my lungs first and foremost. So an important option for me was to go with the overhead blade guard to get every last bit of dust collection possible. I'm probably a special case, but the increase in price was "lost in the noise" of the total purchase price.

    Mine was only a KF700S, saw/shaper only. Don't know if if would work on the CF series.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Baker SD View Post
    I have pretty severe lung and my doctor ordered me to protect my lungs first and foremost. So an important option for me was to go with the overhead blade guard to get every last bit of dust collection possible. I'm probably a special case, but the increase in price was "lost in the noise" of the total purchase price.

    Mine was only a KF700S, saw/shaper only. Don't know if if would work on the CF series.
    I believe the overhead guard (the large one with rigid frame) won't work on a combo machine due to the J/P section which hinges upward. The standard guard is effective as long as the DC is sufficiently powerful - mine was almost too good as smaller offcuts had an annoying habit of shooting up the duct, especially when you need the offcut. Had to shut the blast gate by 50%.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Giddings View Post
    I believe the overhead guard (the large one with rigid frame) won't work on a combo machine due to the J/P section which hinges upward. The standard guard is effective as long as the DC is sufficiently powerful - mine was almost too good as smaller offcuts had an annoying habit of shooting up the duct, especially when you need the offcut. Had to shut the blast gate by 50%.
    I agree...and one can still do an overhead guard simply by rigging it from the ceiling. Most, if not all of these machines come with a riving knife-mounted guard/collector that can be used for through cuts, but an overhead setup is needed for using a guard for non-through cuts. My MM slider is that way.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    I have a KF700S saw/shaper and the AD741 J/P. The saw has a 110" table and has been plenty long enough for me. Scoring should be added at time of purchase if you think you will need it. I have it but never use it. I did not opt for the electronic height/tilt on the KF and don't regret it. It would be nice to have for the shaper but its expensive. I wish I had the overhead guard but that is something easily added later where some things you need to have factory installed.

    As for the J/P, I went with the silent power cutter and the electronic height adjust. That cutter is awesome and couldn't imagine the planer without electronics.

    The Felder rep recommended 3 blades. All theirs of course. The silent power cross cut, rip, and a universal blade. I love the way they cut. Blade change is pretty quick, but the universal gets used the most.

    Shaper tooling is specific to what kind of work you do but I went with the 1.25" spindle and have a lot of Amana tooling. I also bought the router spindle and makes for the ultimate router table in my opinion but since you already have a router table may not be the best for you.

    Regards, Marty

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